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Best Catch Can??

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Old 04-12-2014, 09:17 PM
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Guys, I wouldn't get too wrapped up in what's the BEST, but rather what works the BEST for your BUDGET. 129 bucks for the Gen 2 Norris can is HARD to beat.

Here's mine. Kept my Fast BONE DRY till the day I sold her...
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Old 04-12-2014, 09:42 PM
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The LS6 valley cover does work rather well for relieving the pressure. Sometimes in a situation where you cannot rebuild the engine, you can use a dual catch can setup.

Which tube are you running the catch can on? The driver side or pass side?
The ECU has no idea what extra air is coming in past the MAF and usually it doesnt cause issues with the MAP sensor.

What I would recommend is re-ringing the engine and honing the cyls if they are in spec to run the pistons as is. Id rather use a new set of pistons anyway, but I understand all of that is a large undertaking.

Has anyone wondered how bad blowby is on the rest of the engine and not just the oil mist you get in the intake? That is the only visible sign really.
No one will likely do that though.

I am not sure the cheapest is the best as far as catch cans go, it is just the cheapest.
Old 04-13-2014, 10:04 AM
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Originally Posted by BrntWS6
What do recommend for a H/C car then? I have the RX can and was getting oil in the intake through the TB tube....so I put on one of their breathers per their recommendation to relieve crank case pressure. From what I understand its a flow controlling check valve that the ECU can compensate for.
I'd first make 110% sure you don't have any restrictions or vacuum leaks, starting from the dirty air outlet all the way up to the hose connected to the side of the intake manifold.
Old 04-13-2014, 02:34 PM
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Originally Posted by coSPEED2
The LS6 valley cover does work rather well for relieving the pressure. Sometimes in a situation where you cannot rebuild the engine, you can use a dual catch can setup.

Which tube are you running the catch can on? The driver side or pass side?
The ECU has no idea what extra air is coming in past the MAF and usually it doesnt cause issues with the MAP sensor.

What I would recommend is re-ringing the engine and honing the cyls if they are in spec to run the pistons as is. Id rather use a new set of pistons anyway, but I understand all of that is a large undertaking.

Has anyone wondered how bad blowby is on the rest of the engine and not just the oil mist you get in the intake? That is the only visible sign really.
No one will likely do that though.

I am not sure the cheapest is the best as far as catch cans go, it is just the cheapest.
From what I have read getting oil up the TB tube isn't uncommon at all, especially on a H/C car. The motor only has 18k miles on it so I doubt any internals are bad. I didn't know the LS6 valley was good for relieving pressure though.

I routed mine like the diagram below with the exception of the TB tube for the breather, and I eliminated the stock PCV valve since the RX has one built in.

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Originally Posted by 99Bluz28
I'd first make 110% sure you don't have any restrictions or vacuum leaks, starting from the dirty air outlet all the way up to the hose connected to the side of the intake manifold.
Yeah it's clean, I blew out all the lines and checked everything but I really wasn't getting any oil in the CC. 90% of it was still going into the intake via the TB tube, which is why I bought the breather. Now, finally it seems to be catching oil like it should.

Last edited by BrntWS6; 04-13-2014 at 02:40 PM.
Old 04-13-2014, 04:25 PM
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Using a dual catch can may be more in line for you then.

I am not saying anything is "bad" but I have personally built quite a few engines that have zero need for a catch can. Period.
Old 04-13-2014, 06:10 PM
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And I would def look at getting an ls6 valley. The center section of the engine can build pressure as well. It should go into the catch can though since it would be considered dirty air. Even though the bays are supposed to "breathe" between themselves, I have not always seen that to be true.
Old 04-13-2014, 06:31 PM
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hopefully my can will be here tomorrow and since I already have the LS6 PCV conversion it should help that much more...


car just turned 155k on it..
Old 04-13-2014, 08:45 PM
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Originally Posted by coSPEED2
Using a dual catch can may be more in line for you then.

I am not saying anything is "bad" but I have personally built quite a few engines that have zero need for a catch can. Period.

Yeah, not needing one would be nice. My intake was completely oil soaked when I was just bolt-ons. Noticed when I took my LS6 intake off while doing H/C.

I may look into a dual CC at some point. I was going to put an LS6 valley on when I was doing H/C but I'm just not cutting my block. Thanks for the advice though.
Old 04-13-2014, 08:46 PM
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Depending on the year of the block, you wont have to cut it.
Old 04-13-2014, 11:02 PM
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I don't have an ls6 block.
Old 04-13-2014, 11:05 PM
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Not all LS1 blocks need to be clearanced for the valley cover. I would check first.
Old 04-14-2014, 07:01 AM
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With the simplicity that these catch cans are, why isn't the everyday hot rodder (like myself and most members here) not making their own? It just takes a little planning and fabrication with commonly available components.
Old 04-14-2014, 10:32 AM
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Myself, I prefer a CC that doesn't rely a metal packing material to remove the oil. Something like these:
http://www.intocco.com/images/catchcan.jpg
http://www.camaro5.com/forums/attach...1&d=1327855358
Old 04-14-2014, 11:47 AM
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The second one you posted is the RX can.
Old 04-14-2014, 09:56 PM
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Originally Posted by coSPEED2
The second one you posted is the RX can.
Yeah, I've been running one for years now, great CC !
Old 04-15-2014, 02:44 PM
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Originally Posted by flattusmaximus78
I ran the mighty mouse can, it didn't catch all my oil. Might have been my routing, but we worked on it a lot. He has seriously good customer service. He isn't afraid to answer questions or take a refund if you aren't satisfied. His valve cover breather is awesome though. It has a rubber disk inside that floats with any sort of crank case pressure and allows the valve cover to breath and then closes shut in vacuum. I ran my stock pcv and never had to deal with smelly engine bays or oil on the v/c
Did you have one of the old cans or is it my current stuff? pcv valved can?

Do you have work done to your cylinder heads, or aftermarket heads?
What I am getting at is you can easily be oiling the intake from lack of valve seal (depending on the above). Have seen it a lot on well used aftermarket stuff.
Did you find a fix elsewhere?


Originally Posted by coSPEED2
You would rather support a member than a vendor that pays to keep this site running?

I know what you are saying, but dang.
Just wanted to address this to avoid any animosity..

I am a member here (and thank you all so very much for your support!)

And my cans are available through more than one sponsor here and elsewhere.

for example, Mike has a fresh batch of my barbed pcv can headed his way..

http://www.ws6project.com/user_stor/...oducts_id=6352

-------------

some food for your catch can thoughts

It not possible for any 'closed type' can to not push blow by out the fresh air tube, and is not possible for any 'open type' can to allow for pcv function

My cans such as the one above fix that, they relieve crank pressure while not passing any oil over the fresh air tube, not passing oil out the breather, and while not changing pcv functionality.
Old 04-15-2014, 06:03 PM
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How come ws6store is $15 more than your site??

Tony
Old 04-15-2014, 06:15 PM
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Just installed my new MightyMouse draft can and its worth it.. very high quality piece.. I'll get pictures tomorrow when its a little warmer out.
Old 04-15-2014, 06:18 PM
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Originally Posted by vatechguy3
How come ws6store is $15 more than your site??

Tony
it comes with the LS head bracket and barbed fittings which is a $10 option each on Davids site.
Old 04-15-2014, 07:51 PM
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Not alot of diff between that and the moroso one....


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