McCord vs. DMH cutouts?
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ok guys, i'm getting ready to have this installed and i have a question about the power source. i have already posted this in the electronics section, but i'm looking for a quick answer.
Cliffs: Assuming this is supposed to go to a TCS switch, will the pink wire still have power? It's a non TCS car..
Here's the long post.
Hey everybody, I'm installing an electric cutout and I was looking for a power source. It doesn't matter if it's switched or not.. I would actually prefer not switched since I don't have any lights or anything for the cutout. I was going to originally splice into the power for the cigarette lighter, but then i noticed this piece coming out of the harness. I have a non-TCS car. Is that what this harness is for? If so, will the pink wire have power? I'm down at school and I don't have a multimeter down here, so I was hoping somebody could help me out. Also, which wire is the ground? If I could use this for my power source that would save me from having to hack into wires that are actually used.
TIA
PS- sorry for the picture quality. I didn't think to bring a real camera out.
Cliffs: Assuming this is supposed to go to a TCS switch, will the pink wire still have power? It's a non TCS car..
Here's the long post.
Hey everybody, I'm installing an electric cutout and I was looking for a power source. It doesn't matter if it's switched or not.. I would actually prefer not switched since I don't have any lights or anything for the cutout. I was going to originally splice into the power for the cigarette lighter, but then i noticed this piece coming out of the harness. I have a non-TCS car. Is that what this harness is for? If so, will the pink wire have power? I'm down at school and I don't have a multimeter down here, so I was hoping somebody could help me out. Also, which wire is the ground? If I could use this for my power source that would save me from having to hack into wires that are actually used.
TIA
PS- sorry for the picture quality. I didn't think to bring a real camera out.
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You can get a digital multi-meter from harbor freight for $5. Also, you can buy a needle type for about the same at the auto parts store. I would not take anyone's word on it. Check for yourself. And if you need a ground, run one yourself.
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on a side note, i found a crap ton of change that i didn't see the first time i had the console off.. i also missed a few cigarette butts from the previous owner.. the first time i vacuumed out ~60-70 of them from under there.
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Consider that even though there may be a 12+ source there, is it adequate to run the cut-out motor? Are you needing a 12+ to turn on a relay or were you planning on running it direct to the motor? That circuit may feed a stock relay which means it isn't suitable for current draw. Why wouldn't you just go directly to the fuse-box for a 12+? Its only 2 feet away
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Consider that even though there may be a 12+ source there, is it adequate to run the cut-out motor? Are you needing a 12+ to turn on a relay or were you planning on running it direct to the motor? That circuit may feed a stock relay which means it isn't suitable for current draw. Why wouldn't you just go directly to the fuse-box for a 12+? Its only 2 feet away ![Nod](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_nod.gif)
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im thinking im going to temporarily use the cigarette lighter source for power since i know that will be adequate. this is going to be more temporary than anything until i get home for spring break and i actually have the right tools. i mostly just want to have a working cut out for the time being. thanks for all the help. can't wait for tomorrow.
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Cigarette lighter socket would be much better bc without knowing much of anything we know its good for a solid 15-20 amps of current flow. I dont know how much cut-outs pull but its not worth risking it on unknown circuits in the car.
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i may eventually do that, but right now it's basically hooked up to a direct source from the battery anyway. that only really matters if your cutout has LEDs that go with it to tell you if its opened or closed. since mine doesn't, it shouldn't be a problem.
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OP if you decide to wire it to the lighter , make sure you check the readings with the battery on and off before you use the cutout.
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Did McCord go out of business? I have been trying to access the website but its been down for a while.
http://www.mccordcg.com/
http://www.mccordcg.com/
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i have pretty much ruled out QTP after reading all the negative reviews on here about them. i realize they all have problems, but it seems like more people have had issues with them. probably just a result of more being sold. another one i have been looking at is the badlanzHPE. it offers a 5 year warranty and you can buy all the parts separate.
does anybody know if the DMH will stop moving when its fully open or closed? i hear that many of the cutouts die from the button being held too long.
also, after some more reading it seems that the stock I-pipe is 2.75"D. will a 3" y pipe mount up to that okay?
does anybody know if the DMH will stop moving when its fully open or closed? i hear that many of the cutouts die from the button being held too long.
also, after some more reading it seems that the stock I-pipe is 2.75"D. will a 3" y pipe mount up to that okay?
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My McCord lasted about 8-10 years but eventually the
gears got loose enough for it to bind up. Regular service
to the little gearhead would probably have extended this,
but after a year undercar you can forget that (corrosion
of the tiny fine screws) unless you had the foresight to
disassemble and anti-seize them all.
My power feed is taken from the driver's seat power. It
has plenty of fusebox capacity yet seldom sees any load
at all. Also relatively convenient for undercarpet routing.
I have the 3" plate at the axle bend of the I-pipe. People
keep reposting the picture. 3" stainless collector stubs
from Jeg's matched up properly. This is however the SLP
CME catback, which might differ from stock diameter,
a little. Still if you're welding it on you have plenty of
opportunity to beat metal into shape.
gears got loose enough for it to bind up. Regular service
to the little gearhead would probably have extended this,
but after a year undercar you can forget that (corrosion
of the tiny fine screws) unless you had the foresight to
disassemble and anti-seize them all.
My power feed is taken from the driver's seat power. It
has plenty of fusebox capacity yet seldom sees any load
at all. Also relatively convenient for undercarpet routing.
I have the 3" plate at the axle bend of the I-pipe. People
keep reposting the picture. 3" stainless collector stubs
from Jeg's matched up properly. This is however the SLP
CME catback, which might differ from stock diameter,
a little. Still if you're welding it on you have plenty of
opportunity to beat metal into shape.