MAF sensor or delete it?
MAF sensor or delete it? I own an 01' WS6 T/A with a few bolt ons. Slp air lid, k&n air filter, msd plug wires, muffler delte, ristor delte in the hood scoops, short shaft shifter. my next investment is going to be a mass air flow sensor. I am planning on getting a tune after i get all the mods done. So is it better to get a new maf sensor or have it removed when i get a tune and have the codes delted? And if i should get a maf sensor which one is the best?
Why? The car runs much better with it on and the only reason, and I mean ONLY reason to run Speed Density (no MAF) is if your cam is SO big that reversion is sending air back through the MAF. Your cam is not that big.
If you are maxing out your MAF with FI, it can be corrected in the tune. There's no reason to even replace the stock one. I made 715 rwhp on a stock MAF. Don't even remove the honeycomb inside, it will run worse.
If you are maxing out your MAF with FI, it can be corrected in the tune. There's no reason to even replace the stock one. I made 715 rwhp on a stock MAF. Don't even remove the honeycomb inside, it will run worse.
Why? The car runs much better with it on and the only reason, and I mean ONLY reason to run Speed Density (no MAF) is if your cam is SO big that reversion is sending air back through the MAF. Your cam is not that big.
If you are maxing out your MAF with FI, it can be corrected in the tune. There's no reason to even replace the stock one. I made 715 rwhp on a stock MAF. Don't even remove the honeycomb inside, it will run worse.
If you are maxing out your MAF with FI, it can be corrected in the tune. There's no reason to even replace the stock one. I made 715 rwhp on a stock MAF. Don't even remove the honeycomb inside, it will run worse.
MAF has to be tuned out = $450. Just leave it, leave the screen and take care of it till your mods dictate you get a better one or a SD tune. If you REALLY want to do something with it, get the 85mm MAF. But most of those need to be tuned as well.
Keep the stock one. You basically have just bolt ons. I wouldnt worry about the MAF till at very minimum get heads and a HUGE cam or some sort of FI. Your money would better be spent somewhere else.
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adj torque arm first. i gained 4/10ths when i upgraded suspension. thats lca's strange adj shocks, adj torque arm and 4.10's. but im a bad driver with a 2.3 60ft. lol after that i picked up 3/10ths with a cam and better fast intake.
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You only picked up .3 off a cam and FAST?
^ He said he was a bad driver.. the 2.3 60' should have nailed it. (Not sure if I should laugh.) I'm ok, but never been to the track enough to be cocky.
Do the SFC's first. An adj tq arm can be pricey. Around $350 for the Tq arm and maybe $250 for the SFC's. Go with UMI for them. They're a really good design.
Speedinc:
$150 for 2pt and $280 for three pt. UMI.
I have the 2pt and they still made a HUGE difference. I'd like to do the 3pt eventually.
Do the SFC's first. An adj tq arm can be pricey. Around $350 for the Tq arm and maybe $250 for the SFC's. Go with UMI for them. They're a really good design.
Speedinc:
$150 for 2pt and $280 for three pt. UMI.
I have the 2pt and they still made a HUGE difference. I'd like to do the 3pt eventually.
^ He said he was a bad driver.. the 2.3 60' should have nailed it. (Not sure if I should laugh.) I'm ok, but never been to the track enough to be cocky.
Do the SFC's first. An adj tq arm can be pricey. Around $350 for the Tq arm and maybe $250 for the SFC's. Go with UMI for them. They're a really good design.
Speedinc:
$150 for 2pt and $280 for three pt. UMI.
I have the 2pt and they still made a HUGE difference. I'd like to do the 3pt eventually.
Do the SFC's first. An adj tq arm can be pricey. Around $350 for the Tq arm and maybe $250 for the SFC's. Go with UMI for them. They're a really good design.
Speedinc:
$150 for 2pt and $280 for three pt. UMI.
I have the 2pt and they still made a HUGE difference. I'd like to do the 3pt eventually.
