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*General* FAST LSXr 102 thread

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Old Mar 2, 2011 | 07:40 AM
  #101  
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I have been in for 7 years and I am also a SSgt. I am originally an F-15E Strike Eagle Crew Chief, and now I am working Block 52 F-16CJ's at Misawa AB, Japan. It's fun but this is my 4th deployment to the desert in my 7 years. Fun Times!


Originally Posted by bayer-z28
Good deal.. I was a 6yr SSgt CES/RED HORSE pavements in Bagram from 05-06. 6 months on TOP of a month in training and a month in transit. Bought a transmission from T56 Rebuilds, clutch, susp, wheels and tires for the car when I got back. And a 95 F150, IIRC. Got MEB'd in 08. I miss it bad.
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Old Mar 2, 2011 | 08:48 AM
  #102  
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^ We got tagged every year. PITA sometimes. Especially when you start to relax a little then boom, deployed again.

But anyway.. I gotta replace my -6 feed line. It looks a bit small, but it's way too short and I'm not liking the way it's rigged now. Gotta fix it but can't find the adapter to the stock steel line with the quick disconnect. Got a thread in the fuel room.
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Old Mar 2, 2011 | 01:31 PM
  #103  
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Originally Posted by kevin kuether
Tony, I used comp's specs on mine. I am not sure what the factory specs are. Have you personally seen the bolts coming loose or have you had good luck with the fast bolts.
Thanks for any insight.
I do NOT use the Comp torque specs....you can get those bolts fairly tight....much tighter than the spec they call for and I usually re tighten them on a new engine numerous times after a couple of heat cycles and putting some driving time on the manifold. After you do that the bolts tend to hold their torque rather well and are not prone to loosening at all (or at least thats been my experience!)

Just an FYI....

-Tony

PS....I dont go crazy with the torque on the intake fasteners....I just use a fairly long allen wrench or a socket on a small 1/4 drive ratchet and if I had to guess I would say I pull those bolts to 10 ft/lbs or so. I basically make them tight by hand using those "short" tools I just mentioned and also you have to go over the intake like five times till they are all the same amount of "hand tight". As you tighten the intake the first bolts you started with always seem to loosen.....you must make multiple passed around that intake.
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Old Mar 2, 2011 | 01:55 PM
  #104  
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yea I make a couple passes after hand tight as well with the allen wrench and I've never had a problem with bolts coming loose. No locktite or anything has been used. I'd say go hand tight on all of the bolts and then grab your allen wrench and make as least 270 degrees probably on each bolt in a X shaped pattern.
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Old Mar 2, 2011 | 04:19 PM
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^ I just torqued mine.. All gooood..


And 98mm lid and 102mm NW TB on the way here.. Almost dooooone!!!


Originally Posted by Tony Mamo @ AFR
I do NOT use the Comp torque specs....you can get those bolts fairly tight....much tighter than the spec they call for and I usually re tighten them on a new engine numerous times after a couple of heat cycles and putting some driving time on the manifold. After you do that the bolts tend to hold their torque rather well and are not prone to loosening at all (or at least thats been my experience!)

Just an FYI....

-Tony

PS....I dont go crazy with the torque on the intake fasteners....I just use a fairly long allen wrench or a socket on a small 1/4 drive ratchet and if I had to guess I would say I pull those bolts to 10 ft/lbs or so. I basically make them tight by hand using those "short" tools I just mentioned and also you have to go over the intake like five times till they are all the same amount of "hand tight". As you tighten the intake the first bolts you started with always seem to loosen.....you must make multiple passed around that intake.
I went by the TQ that fast called for in the pamphlet that came w the intake. 48 lb/in and 79 lb/in.. IIRC.. With Loctite.. Gotta get my TQ Wrench checked. Seems a bit off. Went in pattern and used a 3/8" 5mm Allen socket.
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Old Mar 3, 2011 | 09:52 PM
  #106  
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Custom Feed line in today, 24" to go from the back to the stock 3/8 fuel line. Locally made. Got some heat wrap for the evap line too.

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Old Mar 6, 2011 | 09:19 PM
  #107  
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STB doesn't fit anymore.. Ideas?
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Old Mar 6, 2011 | 10:18 PM
  #108  
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^^shell out for a custom one or ditch it
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Old Mar 7, 2011 | 02:42 AM
  #109  
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Join the club Bayer! I bought a brand new full polished Hotchkis stb (for engine dress up purposes) and I am being told that no stb will fit above this manifold. That was a $300 stb and I really want to use it. Let me know if you come up with an idea.
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Old Mar 7, 2011 | 08:10 AM
  #110  
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^ I put it up for trade. I could bring it to the local metal shop and have them alter it to fit, but then it may hit my hood. Not thinking it's going to work.
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Old Mar 7, 2011 | 08:36 AM
  #111  
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Which STB do you have?
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Old Mar 7, 2011 | 08:51 AM
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The shock tower brace issue has been brought up a few times before, and aside from having one custom fabricated to work with the 102, you won't be able to make an off-the-shelf part work. Again, it is another issue that has to be addressed with this intake manifold - it was not designed around the F-body, and that is readily apparent by the clearance issues that everyone has when trying to use it in that application.
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Old Mar 7, 2011 | 04:56 PM
  #113  
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Originally Posted by bayer-z28
^ I just torqued mine.. All gooood..


And 98mm lid and 102mm NW TB on the way here.. Almost dooooone!!!


I'm still on the fence on getting a 102 T/B.
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Old Mar 7, 2011 | 05:34 PM
  #114  
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^ I was too. Read up on those threads I quoted Tony Mamo from on the first couple pages. I can always use it again on a 408 stroke build planned for the winter time 2011-2012 or spring 2012.

Originally Posted by usafcrewchief01
Which STB do you have?
BMR chromemoly tubular 2pt.
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Old Mar 7, 2011 | 07:03 PM
  #115  
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I am trying to return that STB to the company I bought it from. Sucks to have to return a nice fully polished STB that costs close to 300 bucks. Good news is that $300 will buy my 3.73's!

I also just had my FAST sanded/smoothed/and painted by Vengeance Racing (Gloss Black with SOM colored lettering) and the intake is on it's way as we speak to Tony Freakin Mamo to under go one of his port jobs.

Originally Posted by bayer-z28
^ I was too. Read up on those threads I quoted Tony Mamo from on the first couple pages. I can always use it again on a 408 stroke build planned for the winter time 2011-2012 or spring 2012.



BMR chromemoly tubular 2pt.

Last edited by usafcrewchief01; Mar 7, 2011 at 07:07 PM. Reason: forgot something
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Old Mar 7, 2011 | 08:47 PM
  #116  
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^ What heads are you running?
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Old Mar 7, 2011 | 08:55 PM
  #117  
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PRC 227's
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Old Mar 7, 2011 | 08:58 PM
  #118  
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^ Oh yeah.. Now I remember that from somewhere. Grab some TR6 plugs too? I need a better set of heads eventually. This intake is maxing these heads out now. Should be about a week or two till I get it tuned. Now I need truck coils.. Would explain my high RPM misses I was hearing last year.
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Old Mar 7, 2011 | 09:56 PM
  #119  
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I am curious to see how these heads will work in conjunction with the ported 102/102TB combo
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Old Mar 7, 2011 | 10:27 PM
  #120  
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Originally Posted by Sommer86@6LE
Tony, are my heads almost ready? lol. I gotta get you my 102 to port as well.
Tony, Nice meeting you today at the shop...and thanks for the heads (btw, they do have the red stripes installed).

Originally Posted by bayer-z28
STB doesn't fit anymore.. Ideas?
Originally Posted by usafcrewchief01
Join the club Bayer! I bought a brand new full polished Hotchkis stb (for engine dress up purposes) and I am being told that no stb will fit above this manifold. That was a $300 stb and I really want to use it. Let me know if you come up with an idea.
And for you strut tower brace "wanters" (and a fellow PHK'er), as soon as I get my car up and running we'll be modifying our custom STB's to clear the 102's. Just a little FYI info to pass on.
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