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**STICKY WORTHY** GMMG Exhaust.. How To Eliminate Rasp * Lots of Vids and Pics*

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Old 03-26-2011, 09:25 AM
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Originally Posted by t/a98
I have a three muffler powerstick set up. 30 inch in the I and two 24's in the back, basically a gmmg clone. Stepped headers 1 3/4- 1 7/8 ory big cam and other stuff. It's loud but not overbearing. It gets nasty when I'm on the gas. No rasp though. I agree the I pipe muffler is the key. I installed mine correctly though. Curious to hear why you should do it backwards? Classic chambered powersticks have a full 3 inch opening all the way through and the fins are pretty small. Not alot of restriction.
It all started in this thread with RevGTO and i

I took his advice, bc RevGTO took the advice from EAD.. There is good advice in this thread.. https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...very-busy.html

These pics are complimnetary of 97camarozguy

With the grain:
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Against the grain:
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Old 03-27-2011, 12:35 PM
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Originally Posted by TORCHD 02 TA
To be honest I've never seen the Stainless works GMMG system
Here's the system im talking about...
http://www.lmperformance.com/53969/1.html

I still like the GMMG setup more then this one but this still looks like a nice system though.
Old 03-27-2011, 01:21 PM
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Thought I would throw this into the ring for the stock guys with cats still
http://www.streetfire.net/video/my-2...ack_194529.htm

And now with the cutout open
http://www.streetfire.net/video/my-2...pen_194532.htm
Old 03-27-2011, 04:15 PM
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Originally Posted by Badguy7
Here's the system im talking about...
http://www.lmperformance.com/53969/1.html

I still like the GMMG setup more then this one but this still looks like a nice system though.
I'm jealous of this set up only bc it is a true 3" and 3.5" system, where as original GMMG is 3" and gets reduced to 2.75"

But like you said, I like the original GMMG design versus this design
Old 03-27-2011, 04:37 PM
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Couldnt find much video on the Stainless Works exhaust..
Old 03-27-2011, 06:40 PM
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Oh then all three of mine are against the grain. That's how classic chambered recommends it. Do people really install them "with the grain" seems like a waste of money. Just go ahead and get straight pipes haha
Old 03-27-2011, 09:13 PM
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Originally Posted by mac62989
Couldnt find much video on the Stainless Works exhaust..
Only 1 i found with a 4th Gen, come across alot of 5th Gen's with StainlessWorks exhaust though.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X887tqXE_j0
Old 03-27-2011, 09:42 PM
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^Yep thats all I found between youtube and on here.
Old 03-27-2011, 10:41 PM
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Originally Posted by TORCHD 02 TA
I'm jealous of this set up only bc it is a true 3" and 3.5" system, where as original GMMG is 3" and gets reduced to 2.75"

But like you said, I like the original GMMG design versus this design
Yea, being a full 3" & 3.5" setup was what caught my attention when i 1st looked at it. Still saving up money for the GMMG so who knows, maybe ill change my mind and give that setup a shot.
Old 03-28-2011, 10:25 AM
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sorry to hijack here but where do you guys buy the little turn down thing for the cutout there?
Old 03-28-2011, 10:52 AM
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Originally Posted by TORCHD 02 TA
Thanks Adam for the kind words.. I had to make a post like this.. To many GMMG threads going around

What is the plan for your formy this season?
I hope this gets 'stickied'.

Brand new LS2 installed and I have a buyer lined up - C5 Z06 is the plan.

If not, I have a set of HRE wheels in the basement
Old 03-28-2011, 11:01 AM
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So your saying that running the exhaust gas into those little caves as oppose to over them is a good idea? It would seem that would cause A TON of turbulence and distortion to the gases as they are trying to make their way thru the pipe because you're turning it all back into the oncoming flow. Not saying this is good or bad but a very interesting theory nonetheless. I could see the idea of helping with the rasp but I wonder JUST how much more it is helping and at what costs as well...
Thanks for sharing this info as too often I find myself skimming thru tons of similar thread when all people need to do is search, or hopefully soon, just read the stickies.
Old 03-28-2011, 11:15 AM
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Originally Posted by MTBSully
sorry to hijack here but where do you guys buy the little turn down thing for the cutout there?
Any capable exhasut shop can make the little turn down.. All it is is a straight piece of pipe cut at a 45º angle
Old 03-29-2011, 12:12 PM
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Originally Posted by Fb0dy0nly
So your saying that running the exhaust gas into those little caves as oppose to over them is a good idea? It would seem that would cause A TON of turbulence and distortion to the gases as they are trying to make their way thru the pipe because you're turning it all back into the oncoming flow. Not saying this is good or bad but a very interesting theory nonetheless. I could see the idea of helping with the rasp but I wonder JUST how much more it is helping and at what costs as well...
Thanks for sharing this info as too often I find myself skimming thru tons of similar thread when all people need to do is search, or hopefully soon, just read the stickies.
You know I really cannot anwer your question bc I'm not an engineer who designed this..

All I can say is I'm going by what RevGTO who was told from EAD performance to install it against the grain.. Or backwards. Then I hear a lot of people that are buying the powerstick, that this specific company is telling them to do the same thing

Have listened to my vids? I can post a before vid of jsut the merge and no powerstick vs merge and powerstick. You can tell how quieter and tamer it got with the powerstick in the i pipe

O/R Y, Flowmaseter Merge and GMMG C/B




Current set up in sig

Last edited by TORCHD 02 TA; 03-29-2011 at 12:23 PM.
Old 03-29-2011, 09:22 PM
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My theory is that rasp is caused by individual exhaust pulses colliding and resonating in the system. The powerstick installed "against the grain" is especially effective at shearing the individual pulses and smoothing them out. It doesn't cost much, if anything, in terms of flow because the powerstick is a larger chamber (3.5") that preserves the a true 3" open flowpath. The pulsating gases enter, are sheared, are smoothed out and the rasp is toned down.

Cats have a similar effect on a different principle: the cat works like a strainer to smooth out and equalize exhaust flow. The use of both cats and powerstick is super-effective at killing rasp on a GMMG w/LT's.

Thanks TORCHD for getting the straight story out on GMMG that we have addressed over and over in so many threads!
Old 03-30-2011, 01:59 AM
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I used a set of powersticks on a true dual setup I had. The way you have it labled as against the grain is the way he had it labled as the correct installation. Also, I had the gmmg on a heads cam, lt, ory lt1 and loved it. Just my 2 cents.
Old 03-30-2011, 07:41 AM
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I have accomplished the same thing by using the same flowmaster merge + dynomax 18" bullet + magnaflow CB
Old 03-30-2011, 09:51 AM
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Originally Posted by RevGTO
My theory is that rasp is caused by individual exhaust pulses colliding and resonating in the system. The powerstick installed "against the grain" is especially effective at shearing the individual pulses and smoothing them out. It doesn't cost much, if anything, in terms of flow because the powerstick is a larger chamber (3.5") that preserves the a true 3" open flowpath. The pulsating gases enter, are sheared, are smoothed out and the rasp is toned down.

Cats have a similar effect on a different principle: the cat works like a strainer to smooth out and equalize exhaust flow. The use of both cats and powerstick is super-effective at killing rasp on a GMMG w/LT's.

Thanks TORCHD for getting the straight story out on GMMG that we have addressed over and over in so many threads!
I agree that going against the grain, those little crevaces (sp) slow down the exhasut gases so that they do not collide with one another. Causing to tone down and even possibly eliminate the rasp

I feel it was time to make a thread.. A Flowmaster merge doesn't do anything for rasp. In fact it merges the exhaust gases better, even possibly causing more rasp. The idea here was to educate people that yes you should get a Flowmaster Merge, bc most merges on y pipes are terrible. But they key component was the powerstick installed agains the grain in the i pipe. My vids are proof that I killed about 98% of my rasp with the powerstick.

Thanks for coming in and adding more info!
Old 03-30-2011, 08:25 PM
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Torchd, im not sure what other catback systems you have had before but what would you rank the GMMG as far as flow goes from a 0-10 rating?
Old 03-30-2011, 09:09 PM
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Originally Posted by Badguy7
Torchd, im not sure what other catback systems you have had before but what would you rank the GMMG as far as flow goes from a 0-10 rating?
Umm I'm really not sure. This is the only Y pipe set up I've had on my car.. I've had TDs as well..

So here is some input.. When I got my cam installed I was running LTs, 3" O/R H and Flowmaster 1 chambers (the race series), stock injectors, MTI clear lid, ASP UDP, 160 T-stat and stock MAF.. And I dynoed 415/378 on a mustang dyno

Then I switched to the set up in my sig MINUS the powerstick, added 42# injectors, FTP 85mm Lid, 85mm MAF, same ASP UDP and same 160 T-stat. and I dynoed 419/382.. on the same dyno as above. So maybe I picked up a little power with bigger lid/maf combo or the exhaust set up in my sig...

But GMMG was rated as one of the best flowing catback.. The only draw back to it is it starts at 3" then gets reduced down to 2.75"


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