Finally ordering my Kooks!!!
Thread Starter
TECH Apprentice
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 337
Likes: 0
From: Ft Bragg NC
Finally ordering my Kooks!!! Ordering my Kooks on friday when I get paid, Im gonna install them myself but I need to know everything that I will need to do this all the way from tools to gaskets to bolts and if you can include links that would be great. Can you guys help me with this??? TIA fellas.
-JOSH
-JOSH
Second set because the first set were 1 3/4 and the new ones are 1 3/4 stepped to 1 7/8 
They are great headers and you won't regret the purchase. Both of mine were stainless no emissions BTW.
They are great headers and you won't regret the purchase. Both of mine were stainless no emissions BTW. Trending Topics
LS1 Tech Stories
The Best V8 Stories One Small Block at Time
6 Common C5 Corvette Failures and What's Involved In Repairing Them
Pouria Savadkouei
Retro Modern Bandit Pontiac Trans AM Comes With Burt Reynolds' Autograph
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Greatest Cadillac V Series Performance Models Ever, Ranked
Pouria Savadkouei
Top 10 Most Powerful Chevy Trucks Ever Made!
Hennessey's New Supercharged Silverado ZR2 Has 700 HP
Verdad Gallardo
Coachbuilt N2A Anteros Is an LS2-Powered C6 Corvette In Italian Clothes
Verdad Gallardo
Awesome K5 Blazer Restomod Comes With C7 Corvette Power
Verdad Gallardo
10 Camaros You Should Never Buy
10 LS Engine Myths That Refuse to Die
Verdad Gallardo
WARNING: BAD TRADER STATUS
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 250
Likes: 0
From: California
Got kooks and love em 
As far as the install you will need to get the car about 30" off the ground. If you dont get it high enough you wont be able to work the drivers side header in. You need to drain your oil and remove the filter because it is in the way. You will need an assortment of swivels and extensions. Make sure that you spray the bolts that hook the cats to the y pipe with some kind of lub or else you will have hell breaking them loose. Thats about all, oh yeah and alot of time 
As far as the install you will need to get the car about 30" off the ground. If you dont get it high enough you wont be able to work the drivers side header in. You need to drain your oil and remove the filter because it is in the way. You will need an assortment of swivels and extensions. Make sure that you spray the bolts that hook the cats to the y pipe with some kind of lub or else you will have hell breaking them loose. Thats about all, oh yeah and alot of time 
Hey classic, there is a long debate on LT's vs LT step headers.
I am wondering the gains that you have seen from going to a 1 3/4 - 1 7/8 Step header. Any dyno number differences?
I have dynotech LT step headers and have heard some people say they are great and some say they are not as good as regular LT's, what is your oponion?
I am wondering the gains that you have seen from going to a 1 3/4 - 1 7/8 Step header. Any dyno number differences?
I have dynotech LT step headers and have heard some people say they are great and some say they are not as good as regular LT's, what is your oponion?
On The Tree
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 141
Likes: 0
From: USA
Launching!
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 253
Likes: 1
From: Decatur, IL
You can reuse you stock gaskets and bolts. Be sure to use a little antiseize on the bolt threads. Torque to 11 and then 18 ft-lbs, going from the center out. You will also need O2 extensions for your front O2 sensors. Are you doing an off-road Y pipe? If so, you will need O2 sims for the rears. If you are going with a catted Y pipe, then you will need more extensions for the rear O2 sensors. You might want to do spark plugs while you are in there.
Be careful not to cross thread the header bolts! Too many people end up doing this, and the key is to have a buddy hold the header in position while you start the bolts BY HAND. Thread them in as far as you can before you put a wrench on them (I think I got around 4-5 turns easy by hand). I did not have to remove the oil filter to install the Kook's (but I used a lift).
Be careful not to cross thread the header bolts! Too many people end up doing this, and the key is to have a buddy hold the header in position while you start the bolts BY HAND. Thread them in as far as you can before you put a wrench on them (I think I got around 4-5 turns easy by hand). I did not have to remove the oil filter to install the Kook's (but I used a lift).
Thread Starter
TECH Apprentice
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 337
Likes: 0
From: Ft Bragg NC
If Im going Xpipe what do I do about O2 sensors?? And Im gonna have it fabbed up by a shop around here. I dont wanna spend the serious $$$$ by having them install the headers so can I drive down there with open headers for about 3-4 miles without any problems or f*ck ups?
-JOSH
-JOSH
Originally Posted by cobrakillerta
Didn't you JUST get Pacesetters 
I'll give you my experience with Kook's `98-99 headers. Be glad you aren't getting the Y-pipe, problem #1 solved there. Mine was off a good bit and had to be cut and still needs adjustment. If you're getting emissions fittings be prepared to do some fabricating (pipe bending), mine were off a lot. I think a `98's fitment would have been better because the tubes (especially AIR) are slightly different.
That out of the way, the good is they (headers) cleared everything very well, no cutting, etc. They also tucked up nicely. The headers are well made, short of the emission junk.
You will need: O2 sims if going without cats, O2 ext for front O2s, new GM header gaskets (don't risk a leak), I got stage 8 header bolts (although you can reuse stockers), Emission gaskets (AIR, EGR) if you're keeping them, anti-seeze for O2s (I didn't use them on header bolts, stockers were easy to remove), O2 removal tools (Autozone loan-a-tool), since you're letting a local shop fab up a X pipe you won't need clamps (no a $1200 header package doesn't include clamps
), a good tool set (with metric sockets regular and deep, long ext, wrenchs, etc.)
Tips: Remove oil filter and get the car up high. Pry bar can help. Unbolt the tranny cross member so you can make room. Find a friend to help. Give yourself plenty of time (for unseen problems) and have extra money (for the crap that will break, needs replacing, etc)
That out of the way, the good is they (headers) cleared everything very well, no cutting, etc. They also tucked up nicely. The headers are well made, short of the emission junk.
You will need: O2 sims if going without cats, O2 ext for front O2s, new GM header gaskets (don't risk a leak), I got stage 8 header bolts (although you can reuse stockers), Emission gaskets (AIR, EGR) if you're keeping them, anti-seeze for O2s (I didn't use them on header bolts, stockers were easy to remove), O2 removal tools (Autozone loan-a-tool), since you're letting a local shop fab up a X pipe you won't need clamps (no a $1200 header package doesn't include clamps
), a good tool set (with metric sockets regular and deep, long ext, wrenchs, etc.)Tips: Remove oil filter and get the car up high. Pry bar can help. Unbolt the tranny cross member so you can make room. Find a friend to help. Give yourself plenty of time (for unseen problems) and have extra money (for the crap that will break, needs replacing, etc)