ARP Crank Bolt
07-11-2011, 08:57 AM
#21
you probably pushed junk into the threaded hole when installing the damper and the ARP bolt probably bottomed out with the junk behind it. I agree that you just might not get this piece out. If you take your time and drill through it with a small drill and progress to bigger ones, you might get it out with an easy out. Take a bolt with the same size and thread and grind a point on it so you get a starting point thats exactly in the middle of the broken bolt. Most important is taking your time, don't rush it and use sharp drills. Good luck.
07-11-2011, 04:52 PM
#22
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^FWIW; I've been using Ridgid drill bits at work. Very durable and cryo treated. very sharp and they cut quick too.
THat's what I'm thinking now. Something happened with the threads. Something got bunged up, bound up or JBWeld instead of loctite.
If you snapped it that far in, you've got an issue..
It's a mystery what happened. We can only assume the crank got damaged the last time the bolt was used to install the damper.
A balancer installer threads into the crank then uses a much larger nut with a thrust bearing to push on the balancer. The threads in the crank, while fully engaged by the tool, is not rotated into under the tremendous stress it takes to install the balancer.
Here's a very good installer kit at a very good price. I've owned a kit just like it for at least 25 years:
[IMG]
A balancer installer threads into the crank then uses a much larger nut with a thrust bearing to push on the balancer. The threads in the crank, while fully engaged by the tool, is not rotated into under the tremendous stress it takes to install the balancer.
Here's a very good installer kit at a very good price. I've owned a kit just like it for at least 25 years:
[IMG]
If you snapped it that far in, you've got an issue..
07-15-2011, 10:18 AM
#23
@farmington I just want to clarify, are you saying use an old bolt with a premaid drilled out hole that can thread in to prevent damage to the crank shaft threads? If so this might work well ...I was thinking of using a hollow pipe that could fit in the crankshaft to prevent any nicking of the threads.
07-24-2011, 07:38 PM
#25
Here's how far I got today but I think I need more drill bits and possibly stronger ones. I used the old crank bolt and drilled though that which was pretty easy, this kind of helped with the attemped of drilling the hole in the ARP bolt. It got it pretty center but by the time it came to start drilling the bits were only spotting it. more to come next weekend.
07-24-2011, 10:30 PM
#27
07-24-2011, 11:27 PM
#28
I dunno if this would work for you but I've broken a few bolts off inside engine blocks and turbines. I have a welder buddy who will weld up a tab on the end of the broken bolt and then grab it with vice grips to unscrew/remove the piece. Usually takes him maybe 5 minutes to accomplish
07-25-2011, 09:49 PM
#29
I dunno if this would work for you but I've broken a few bolts off inside engine blocks and turbines. I have a welder buddy who will weld up a tab on the end of the broken bolt and then grab it with vice grips to unscrew/remove the piece. Usually takes him maybe 5 minutes to accomplish
08-09-2011, 06:30 AM
#31
TECH Fanatic
hopefully you got this resolved by now.
just FYI, you can rent the installer tool at a parts store (Autozone, etc.). Or just buy it from them for about $30.
They also sell them at Harbor Freight
just FYI, you can rent the installer tool at a parts store (Autozone, etc.). Or just buy it from them for about $30.
They also sell them at Harbor Freight
