Help with electric cutout wiring?
01-13-2012, 03:18 PM
#1
Help with electric cutout wiring? I have DMH cutouts and so far I've had no luck in getting them wired up yet. I've followed the instructions on how to wire them exactly as stated in the instructions that came with the cutouts and the only thing I've done so far is pop fuses and melt wires. I've even called DMH several times for some tech support but that didn't help at all either.
For purposes of experimentation, I had a 12v battery sitting in the floorboard with the switch wired to it temporarily. Any time I hooked up the cutouts to the vehicle's electrical system they NEVER worked right. However, the cutouts DID work when wired directly to the 12v battery in the floorboard, but only intermittently. The cutouts will occasionally stop working and the wires that go to the switch itself get unbelievably hot, melt, smoke and all kinds of other bad stuff.
I am totally mystified by this. According to DMH, and everything I've read on the internet, no-one is having the kind of trouble that I am with these cutouts so that just adds to my being mystified.
I've asked some gearhead friends and some suggested that I need a relay. But why would I need one when everyone else running cutouts doesn't seem to????
I even tried this guy's method of wiring them but that didn't work for me either. http://www.silveradoss.com/forums/to...ctric-cutouts/
I'm ready to send these things back and get my money back, that's how frustrated I am. These cutouts have been nothing but hassle and headache for me since I unboxed them. Before I even got to the point of attempting to wire them up, I had to do some clearancing on the provided "Y" pipes that the cutouts mount to. The buterfly plate that opens and closes was hitting the inside wall of the cutout. So there was about 2 hours wasted hogging out that thing and then test fitting the cutout to see if it would work.
For purposes of experimentation, I had a 12v battery sitting in the floorboard with the switch wired to it temporarily. Any time I hooked up the cutouts to the vehicle's electrical system they NEVER worked right. However, the cutouts DID work when wired directly to the 12v battery in the floorboard, but only intermittently. The cutouts will occasionally stop working and the wires that go to the switch itself get unbelievably hot, melt, smoke and all kinds of other bad stuff.
I am totally mystified by this. According to DMH, and everything I've read on the internet, no-one is having the kind of trouble that I am with these cutouts so that just adds to my being mystified.
I've asked some gearhead friends and some suggested that I need a relay. But why would I need one when everyone else running cutouts doesn't seem to????
I even tried this guy's method of wiring them but that didn't work for me either. http://www.silveradoss.com/forums/to...ctric-cutouts/
I'm ready to send these things back and get my money back, that's how frustrated I am. These cutouts have been nothing but hassle and headache for me since I unboxed them. Before I even got to the point of attempting to wire them up, I had to do some clearancing on the provided "Y" pipes that the cutouts mount to. The buterfly plate that opens and closes was hitting the inside wall of the cutout. So there was about 2 hours wasted hogging out that thing and then test fitting the cutout to see if it would work.
01-13-2012, 05:00 PM
#2
I had trouble with my DMH electric cutout so I took that **** off.. I even posted a thread on here about it blowing fuses and nobody really gave any help. I'd imagine it needs some sort of relay wired into it for the current it draws when in operation.
01-14-2012, 12:22 AM
#4
djfury, did you get a refund???
I bench tested both cutouts by wiring them individiaully to a battery and then reversing the wires to change polarity and one cutout works just fine that way.
However one of them works intermittently. It will work sometimes, and other times only heat up the wires and get "melty".
I'm at the point where I could try a relay.... However, I really just wanna send them back for a refund so we'll see.
I bench tested both cutouts by wiring them individiaully to a battery and then reversing the wires to change polarity and one cutout works just fine that way.
However one of them works intermittently. It will work sometimes, and other times only heat up the wires and get "melty".
I'm at the point where I could try a relay.... However, I really just wanna send them back for a refund so we'll see.
01-14-2012, 10:27 AM
#5
djfury, did you get a refund???
I bench tested both cutouts by wiring them individiaully to a battery and then reversing the wires to change polarity and one cutout works just fine that way.
However one of them works intermittently. It will work sometimes, and other times only heat up the wires and get "melty".
I'm at the point where I could try a relay.... However, I really just wanna send them back for a refund so we'll see.
I bench tested both cutouts by wiring them individiaully to a battery and then reversing the wires to change polarity and one cutout works just fine that way.
However one of them works intermittently. It will work sometimes, and other times only heat up the wires and get "melty".
I'm at the point where I could try a relay.... However, I really just wanna send them back for a refund so we'll see.
01-14-2012, 04:26 PM
#6
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Sorry for your issues but your not going to get help with DMH. I have my QTP cutout for years still going strong.
Check each part to see if that is the problem. Like check the switch then the wire then the cutout. That might find were the problem is.
Check each part to see if that is the problem. Like check the switch then the wire then the cutout. That might find were the problem is.
01-14-2012, 07:57 PM
#7
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The wiring should be simple, a SPDT momentary switch with a center-off
position (returns to center when not pressed). You criss-cross the outer
terminals and power/ground the center terminals to get a reversing action.
You should have some series resistance to prevent stalled motor current
from roasting wire or popping fuses. This is perhaps buried in the original
harness.
Cutouts fail in the gearbox especially, yours may want that disassembled
and lubed (good luck if it's been on a car, tiny screws all rusted is likely).
If the gearbox is stuck then the motor is stalled and there's your burnt
wiring (if no limiting resistor).
Limiting resistor value too high makes the cutout slow. Too low, means
you cook the armature.
position (returns to center when not pressed). You criss-cross the outer
terminals and power/ground the center terminals to get a reversing action.
You should have some series resistance to prevent stalled motor current
from roasting wire or popping fuses. This is perhaps buried in the original
harness.
Cutouts fail in the gearbox especially, yours may want that disassembled
and lubed (good luck if it's been on a car, tiny screws all rusted is likely).
If the gearbox is stuck then the motor is stalled and there's your burnt
wiring (if no limiting resistor).
Limiting resistor value too high makes the cutout slow. Too low, means
you cook the armature.
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01-16-2012, 11:03 AM
#9
The only thing I can think is that when the one problematic cutout starts acting up, somethin with the motor locks up creating enough resistance to cause problems. It comes and goes...
jimmy the cutouts came with a dual polarity switch like you're talking about...
Yes the cutouts are new.
jimmy the cutouts came with a dual polarity switch like you're talking about...
Yes the cutouts are new.
01-16-2012, 12:08 PM
#10
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If you got something like a 10 ohm wirewound resistor
from Radio Shack, that would give your cutouts about
a 1A stalled max current draw and leave them reasonable
working current (you can also find lower). That would fix
the fuse-go-pop problem, but if it's really stuck then no
actual movement.
Mine got a bit sticky after years under car. I got the plate
off and lubed up the thing as best I could, and it's all better.
Maybe the butterfly is a bit off center, you could try
loosening the screws, drive it full closed and retighten it
such that there's minimum scraping.
If they're virgins, then you ought to be able to get at the
gearbox; pack that puppy with graphite loaded grease
after cleaning out everything that's in there now, maybe
a mystery chunk is getting in the gear train or something.
from Radio Shack, that would give your cutouts about
a 1A stalled max current draw and leave them reasonable
working current (you can also find lower). That would fix
the fuse-go-pop problem, but if it's really stuck then no
actual movement.
Mine got a bit sticky after years under car. I got the plate
off and lubed up the thing as best I could, and it's all better.
Maybe the butterfly is a bit off center, you could try
loosening the screws, drive it full closed and retighten it
such that there's minimum scraping.
If they're virgins, then you ought to be able to get at the
gearbox; pack that puppy with graphite loaded grease
after cleaning out everything that's in there now, maybe
a mystery chunk is getting in the gear train or something.
