Manifold Vacuum Leak
Thread Starter
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 1,284
Likes: 13
From: South Carolina
Manifold Vacuum Leak So, long story short when i finally got my car running and took it for a test drive, i came back and noticed i have a pretty bad vacuum leak, and that the car was having a time trying to return to idle. got out the inspection mirror and a flashlight and look what i found. Surprise, big *** Leak in the top shell of the manifold on the rear passenger side, right in front of the Rear most injector. Any ideas how the hell this happend, how would the upper shell push itself out from the lower in just that 1 inch size spot? It looks just like someone pryed it apart in that area with a screw driver and just popped that section out
is it fixable? Order a whole new upper shell?
Sorry for the crappy pics, i tried to circle the area. My iPhone was the only thing i could get in there to take the pics because its all the way in the back.
oh and to add, i never took apart the upper shell from the lower shell, it was all bolted together correctly when installed it.
is it fixable? Order a whole new upper shell?
Sorry for the crappy pics, i tried to circle the area. My iPhone was the only thing i could get in there to take the pics because its all the way in the back.
oh and to add, i never took apart the upper shell from the lower shell, it was all bolted together correctly when installed it.
I cant diagnose why and what is wrong with it, But if you have a huge gasket leak, or something warped or broke, this link might be your answer:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...overheats.html
^^Probably should have added this. It wouldn't be far fetched that maybe, overheating the car could of caused this, not to mention that it would be very useful information for somebody trying to diagnose whats wrong with your car.
What happened to this?:
Thread Starter
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 1,284
Likes: 13
From: South Carolina
^That link, like i posted in the thread is good, the pump was just cavitated, and the car was never run for more than 5min at Max at a time.
and instead of being a smart ***. I forgot that we dont know each other, but you apparently know everthing! Just because im a mechanic by no means did i every say that i know everything, and if there is someone out there that does (like obviously yourself) you need to let everyone know that! looks like your the one that likes trolling.
what ever happend to this forum.
and instead of being a smart ***. I forgot that we dont know each other, but you apparently know everthing! Just because im a mechanic by no means did i every say that i know everything, and if there is someone out there that does (like obviously yourself) you need to let everyone know that! looks like your the one that likes trolling.
what ever happend to this forum.
^That link, like i posted in the thread is good, the pump was just cavitated, and the car was never run for more than 5min at Max at a time.
and instead of being a smart ***. I forgot that we dont know each other, but you apparently know everthing! Just because im a mechanic by no means did i every say that i know everything, and if there is someone out there that does (like obviously yourself) you need to let everyone know that! looks like your the one that likes trolling.
what ever happend to this forum.
and instead of being a smart ***. I forgot that we dont know each other, but you apparently know everthing! Just because im a mechanic by no means did i every say that i know everything, and if there is someone out there that does (like obviously yourself) you need to let everyone know that! looks like your the one that likes trolling.
what ever happend to this forum.
Dont get butt hurt i took a small shot at you, and was kind of my way of helping your thread along, but honestly I call bullshit on being a mechanic for 12 years, this is an insanely simple problem for any mechanic. I do not know everything and in no way claimed to in my original post, I simply pointed out that there was something that probably caused it.
I would be willing to bet overheating it caused the leak. Honestly on these LS motors it happens pretty easy. Materials all flex and expand at different temperatures. My 5.3 in my truck developed a leak without even overheating, i tightened the bolts and it went away and came back a couple days later, replaced gasket, gone. I was misfiring on cylinder 7 every few seconds, only under load (ac on) and at idle. Obviously thats pretty irrelevant to your situation. But it did show me how picky they can be without a perfect seal.
Ive seen some fast intakes that came with a leak in between them or slightly warped. You can pretty easily take them apart and reseal them, that would probably fix your problem. If it was me i'd pull it off making sure to inspect the intake gasket, then inspecting the manifold itself. Depending on how i felt the seal was inside the manifold, or if i thought it might be just the gasket, id throw it back on and try it out. If you want you can send it to me since i know everything. lol
Troll out
Last edited by MurderedOut; Apr 12, 2012 at 01:30 AM.
Hey bud just an idea here... try pulling it apart and putting a tiny tiny bead of gasket sealer along both sides of the shell gasket. In the groove that the actual gasket sets into. If you don't know the stuff I'm talking about PM me.
Thread Starter
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 1,284
Likes: 13
From: South Carolina
Never said i didnt know how to fix it, i was simply asking if anyone had seen this before, and if it would be worth it to simply JB weld the small crack or to order a whole new top shell. Mabe i should have explained that a little better. I already have the intake back out, and i am going to take apart the shell this weekend and have a look. We must have just misunderstood each other thats all.
The overheating thread, i should have added the car never got past 210* then that was fixed. The car sat in my garage for another week before i could work on it again. Then when i went to the car, inspected everything again and it was fine. It was after i took it for a short test drive of about 10min. and came back when i was able to notice that bulge on the side of the manifold and i was saying that i had never seen one of those special coolant burping funnels before in 12+ years when you had quoted me. But i appreciate the help, and will post back when i take the shell apart.
The overheating thread, i should have added the car never got past 210* then that was fixed. The car sat in my garage for another week before i could work on it again. Then when i went to the car, inspected everything again and it was fine. It was after i took it for a short test drive of about 10min. and came back when i was able to notice that bulge on the side of the manifold and i was saying that i had never seen one of those special coolant burping funnels before in 12+ years when you had quoted me. But i appreciate the help, and will post back when i take the shell apart.
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If you had the upper lid off, you didnt replace it correctly. Take the upper lid back off and set it on correctly.
Ive seen it lots of times, its a simple tounge and groove design. You dont need any sealant either, Ive swapped lids over and over and over and over and never needed a new gasket between the upper and lower.
Ive seen it lots of times, its a simple tounge and groove design. You dont need any sealant either, Ive swapped lids over and over and over and over and never needed a new gasket between the upper and lower.
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Verdad Gallardo I still remove the upper lid when installing there, as the instructions say. Even when using the front MAP position, which is what I used as well (see avatar)
But at least its a simple solution that you found fairly quickly...
But at least its a simple solution that you found fairly quickly...
