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Ball valve cutout??

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Old May 8, 2012 | 06:11 PM
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Default Ball valve cutout??

Ok so technically my camaro is a v6 not ls1, but heres what im planning. I have a 2 inch ball valve that I have sone screwed in short lengths of pipe. My camaro is going in to the shop friday for a new cat, so i was thinking of having them weld in my ball valve setup as a cutout. Anyone ever do this before? I know it sounds redneck but, if it works, i dont have to worry about a cap, and it would take 5 seconds to open/close.

If it works on my v6 I have half considered a 3.5" ball valve cutout on my TA.

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Old May 8, 2012 | 06:26 PM
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Heat would melt the seals on the inside. Most have a teflon liners in them.
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Old May 8, 2012 | 06:37 PM
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Did that years ago,Held out for a few months of short trip intown use. most have teflon seals that won't handle the heat for long.I currently have a cable operated 4" valve I made from cutting & welding a throttle body.Will later attach cable to custom shifter lever. Like the instant response.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n3mL8...6&feature=plcp
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Old May 8, 2012 | 06:46 PM
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I dont think these have teflon liners in them, i could be wrong. We use them at work for high pressure/heat hydrolic. The reason I am
Asking is its cheap, as i can get them from work, and worse comes to worse i unscrew my ball valve in place of a screw in cap... These are brass valves with the "steel" ball... Would a longer piece of pipe stop the teflon, if there is any, from melting??
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Old May 8, 2012 | 07:08 PM
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You can take them apart and see. Those are rebuildable. And xylenes(hydrocarbons) will destroy them.
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Old May 8, 2012 | 07:32 PM
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Originally Posted by tillery
You can take them apart and see. Those are rebuildable. And xylenes(hydrocarbons) will destroy them.
Hmm?? Rebuildable? We always just trash them. I know our lo torqs are rebuildable but never heard of the ball valves being that way. If they last even a few months, that's fine, i can always get another.

Consensus says its going to get tore up then? Guess i need to make sure i get a cap too incase it does give out I can have a manual old fashion cutout..
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Old May 8, 2012 | 08:01 PM
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Well in coil tubing we reused so much. Hydraulics usually get to around 220 degrees. And brass/teflon is used in acid service. Exhaust heat is very hot. Depending on on where u put this at. Before cats would be about the hottest. The cable operated cut outs would be best/cheapest in the long run. Unless you run across some extremely old equipment that used to use exhaust to mix. Thats before trucks had hydraulic power and paddles.
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Old May 8, 2012 | 10:53 PM
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Dude I'd try it. What do you have to lose.
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Old May 9, 2012 | 12:23 AM
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I was going to stick it after the cat, and on the end of a 5 inch piece of pipe.. And ya, I dont work near the boneyard to find equipment that old!! Lol my unit is an ADC Elite
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Old May 9, 2012 | 09:34 AM
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Yea those ADC Elites are nice. In odessa (yard) Coil they have an old RCM manual. As in air start. Shorter trailer pump. No mixing tub. Anyway the shop may have a 3" ball valve and a cutout is still a cutout no matter what design you use.
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Old May 10, 2012 | 02:05 AM
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Ya i took a 2 inch ball valve since its for my v6 they have them
Up to like 5 inch..
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Old May 10, 2012 | 05:11 PM
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If you could run a length of pipe after your y-pipe exit before putting the valve on , this would help dissapate the heat it recieves a little. When I did a ball valve cutout years ago, I made a bracket & used a motorcycle cable to operate it from inside.
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