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Hybrid Lid Progress

Old 06-12-2012, 09:18 PM
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Default Hybrid Lid Progress

I saw a thread on here that I can't find anymore that really impressed me. The guy took a stock lid base and mated an SLP or comparable upper lid to it. The point was to get stock sealing/fitment with aftermarket performance. He even painted it what looked like chrome and it looked absolutely beautiful! Well, my clear MTI had almost a 2" gap under the outlet between the bottom of the lid and the filter, making the filtration effectively non-existent. And I had a stock lid lying around... and a dremel :grin:

Here's where I am so far. I didn't even bother with cleaning up the edges or the dust for that matter because I'm not finished. I did want to get an idea of what I was working towards however!




Now there is a kind of question in this thread: what would you use to get them together? I picked up a plastic welder, but these are clearly (no pun intended) two different plastics. Will I be able to find a stick that will work between the two? Or should I just carefully JB Weld and clean up the mess when it dries? I'm open to suggestions, this won't be a show piece, it's just what I had available to me
Old 06-12-2012, 09:46 PM
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I replied in that old thread where he made it... Awesome idea too. I have my SLP and have SERIOUSLY contemplated doing this. More so to correct MAF / TB angle though.

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Old 06-12-2012, 10:45 PM
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A for effort. I'd like to see the final results.
Old 06-12-2012, 10:49 PM
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Some type of Hardening epoxi for plastics I would think. Or fiberglass it together.
Old 06-12-2012, 10:56 PM
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Originally Posted by dr_whigham
I replied in that old thread where he made it... Awesome idea too. I have my SLP and have SERIOUSLY contemplated doing this. More so to correct MAF / TB angle though.

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Found the guy, it was Poltergeist. Correct MAF/TB angle you say? Interesting... the way I cut it, I could potentially build it up at the back to get the outlet a bit more horizontal. However, it would likely interfere with the hood. I'll keep that in mind as I work on it, thanks for the input.

Originally Posted by 01ssreda4
A for effort. I'd like to see the final results.
Thanks, I'm not getting my hopes up yet. Time will tell and I'll do my best, but I bet no matter what I do, the seam will look like crap.

But you know, the MTI was cracked from the tuner over-tightening a clamp and it fit like crap at the back, so anything with a stock base is better than what I had: a stock lid and a busted MTI lid

For reference, here is a close up of the MTI at the back. Look at all the weather stripping I had to add to get it to seal!

Old 06-12-2012, 10:57 PM
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Originally Posted by 402GOAT
Some type of Hardening epoxi for plastics I would think. Or fiberglass it together.
I've never dealt with either, what epoxy would you recommend? I'm not opposed to learning how to fiberglass, but I'd rather test one undeveloped skill at a time... LOL!
Old 06-13-2012, 12:37 AM
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BTW, don't use fiberglass (per the suggestion above), it doesn't stick to plastic very well, at least not in my experience.
Old 06-13-2012, 12:54 AM
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I repaired a lid once. Didnt know what to use as adhesive. I remembered about some stuff we used at my uncles shop to put up frp panels on the wall.
Liquid Nails brand FRP adhesive. Comes in gallon metal paint type cans.
Its easy to spread, makes for a real strong adhesive and it hardens like a plastic but is not brittle unless its spread thin.
Its easy to sand and shape with cartridge rolls and burrs. Thats what i have and use to port heads and shape metal. worked on the liquid nails.
Regular ol liquid nails out of the caulk tube should work too.
Let it harden a day or 2 and shape it. It will work. As an adhesive and filler for patches.
Old 08-24-2012, 10:25 PM
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Well, there's good and bad news. After so much time trimming and setting epoxy, it's "done". It seals like stock at the base and fits like an SLP lid under the hood. That's the good.

It's not installed though, because the throat of the MTI was crushed by the Delaware shop that did the dyno tuning. Well, I thought I would be able to force a stock MAF in there, but the throat is so warped it's not circular and wouldn't provide a good seal on the MAF end. I could run a coupler, but I'm not ready to do that.

Anyway, thanks for everyone's input. It worked, it's just not installed
Old 08-26-2012, 03:43 PM
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if its just warped stick the end in boiling water then push the MAF in
Old 08-26-2012, 07:00 PM
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Heat it up
Old 08-26-2012, 07:20 PM
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Originally Posted by 67goatman455
if its just warped stick the end in boiling water then push the MAF in
Originally Posted by Sprayed1998
Heat it up
I had briefly thought of heating it with a heat gun, but I decided to step away for a little bit to cool myself down I'll probably try the boiling water as opposed to my heat gun, thanks for the input!


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