Hybrid Lid Progress
Thread Starter
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 1,921
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From: North Houston
Hybrid Lid Progress I saw a thread on here that I can't find anymore that really impressed me. The guy took a stock lid base and mated an SLP or comparable upper lid to it. The point was to get stock sealing/fitment with aftermarket performance. He even painted it what looked like chrome and it looked absolutely beautiful! Well, my clear MTI had almost a 2" gap under the outlet between the bottom of the lid and the filter, making the filtration effectively non-existent. And I had a stock lid lying around... and a dremel :grin:
Here's where I am so far. I didn't even bother with cleaning up the edges or the dust for that matter because I'm not finished. I did want to get an idea of what I was working towards however!
Now there is a kind of question in this thread: what would you use to get them together? I picked up a plastic welder, but these are clearly (no pun intended) two different plastics. Will I be able to find a stick that will work between the two? Or should I just carefully JB Weld and clean up the mess when it dries? I'm open to suggestions, this won't be a show piece, it's just what I had available to me
Here's where I am so far. I didn't even bother with cleaning up the edges or the dust for that matter because I'm not finished. I did want to get an idea of what I was working towards however!
Now there is a kind of question in this thread: what would you use to get them together? I picked up a plastic welder, but these are clearly (no pun intended) two different plastics. Will I be able to find a stick that will work between the two? Or should I just carefully JB Weld and clean up the mess when it dries? I'm open to suggestions, this won't be a show piece, it's just what I had available to me
I replied in that old thread where he made it... Awesome idea too. I have my SLP and have SERIOUSLY contemplated doing this. More so to correct MAF / TB angle though.
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Thread Starter
Joined: Jan 2011
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From: North Houston
Thanks, I'm not getting my hopes up yet. Time will tell and I'll do my best, but I bet no matter what I do, the seam will look like crap.
But you know, the MTI was cracked from the tuner over-tightening a clamp and it fit like crap at the back, so anything with a stock base is better than what I had: a stock lid and a busted MTI lid
For reference, here is a close up of the MTI at the back. Look at all the weather stripping I had to add to get it to seal!
Thread Starter
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 1,921
Likes: 80
From: North Houston
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I repaired a lid once. Didnt know what to use as adhesive. I remembered about some stuff we used at my uncles shop to put up frp panels on the wall.
Liquid Nails brand FRP adhesive. Comes in gallon metal paint type cans.
Its easy to spread, makes for a real strong adhesive and it hardens like a plastic but is not brittle unless its spread thin.
Its easy to sand and shape with cartridge rolls and burrs. Thats what i have and use to port heads and shape metal. worked on the liquid nails.
Regular ol liquid nails out of the caulk tube should work too.
Let it harden a day or 2 and shape it. It will work. As an adhesive and filler for patches.
Liquid Nails brand FRP adhesive. Comes in gallon metal paint type cans.
Its easy to spread, makes for a real strong adhesive and it hardens like a plastic but is not brittle unless its spread thin.
Its easy to sand and shape with cartridge rolls and burrs. Thats what i have and use to port heads and shape metal. worked on the liquid nails.
Regular ol liquid nails out of the caulk tube should work too.
Let it harden a day or 2 and shape it. It will work. As an adhesive and filler for patches.
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Verdad Gallardo Thread Starter
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 1,921
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From: North Houston
Well, there's good and bad news. After so much time trimming and setting epoxy, it's "done". It seals like stock at the base and fits like an SLP lid under the hood. That's the good.
It's not installed though, because the throat of the MTI was crushed by the Delaware shop that did the dyno tuning. Well, I thought I would be able to force a stock MAF in there, but the throat is so warped it's not circular and wouldn't provide a good seal on the MAF end. I could run a coupler, but I'm not ready to do that.
Anyway, thanks for everyone's input. It worked, it's just not installed
Thread Starter
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 1,921
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From: North Houston
I'll probably try the boiling water as opposed to my heat gun, thanks for the input!