car wont crank need help asap plz, need car moved asap
#102
It seems like he's chasing something but in the first posts he did say that the starter broke off when he was driving it and then the car died and that he limped it home ..... and then the car sat for a couple of years I'm wondering do these cars have a limp mode to keep it running and then the car sat for a couple of years and cleared all MIL's and had no base line to run on so it needs to relearn but has no carank signal ???? I'm just thinking thats when all his troubles started
#103
I see what you're saying. I do think our cars have a limp mode. I'm not that familiar with it but I think it shuts down half of the cylinders. Is your check engine light flashing? I have to look it up but I think that's an indicator that your car is in limp mode. I'm sure someone on this forum has that info.
#109
#114
u guys think this might work ?
1. First, insert the ignition key and turn the ignition switch to the “On” position (Do not start the engine). Leave the switch on for 11 minutes. The security light may flash or be on steady during this 11 minute period. Make sure the light is no longer on or flashing before proceeding to #2 .
2. Turn the ignition switch off for 30 seconds.
3. Turn the ignition switch to the “On” position (as in step #1) for 11 minutes again.
4. Turn the ignition switch off for another 30 seconds.
5. Turn the ignition switch to the “On” position for 11 minutes a third time.
6. Turn the ignition switch off for 30 seconds one final time.
7. Turn the ignition switch to the “On” position one final time and wait 30 seconds.
8. Attempt to start the engine. If the engine starts and runs normally, the relearn is complete. If the engine does not start, check for trouble codes and address them before attempting the relearn procedure again.
1. First, insert the ignition key and turn the ignition switch to the “On” position (Do not start the engine). Leave the switch on for 11 minutes. The security light may flash or be on steady during this 11 minute period. Make sure the light is no longer on or flashing before proceeding to #2 .
2. Turn the ignition switch off for 30 seconds.
3. Turn the ignition switch to the “On” position (as in step #1) for 11 minutes again.
4. Turn the ignition switch off for another 30 seconds.
5. Turn the ignition switch to the “On” position for 11 minutes a third time.
6. Turn the ignition switch off for 30 seconds one final time.
7. Turn the ignition switch to the “On” position one final time and wait 30 seconds.
8. Attempt to start the engine. If the engine starts and runs normally, the relearn is complete. If the engine does not start, check for trouble codes and address them before attempting the relearn procedure again.
Last edited by devic; 07-28-2012 at 03:53 AM.
#115
#116
Seems like your starting to over think it a lil bit. I just read the whole thread. One question i didnt see answered was if you checked your crank sensor and wiring. even though the coil problem is constant and not random. Fuel pressure is an issue now. It wasnt really when you started. When your starter broke off and your gauges and lights went out that usually is an indication of it shorting the cable to it ,which in itself can cause you all sorts of problems. I fried an ecm when a pulley caught the cable on another build years ago. Check your crank sensor and wiring in the area of the starter very good. Pull/tug on wires leading into connectors or check them with a meter. After that .. dont spend another dime on it till you can get even a cheapo scantool and pull the codes. And just to hit on the coil stuff... The engine will run on just a few cylinders.
I only had 3-4 injectors half *** working when i did my swap ...but it ran. Dont bother trying to starting it until you get the fuel problem at least half *** sorted.
I only had 3-4 injectors half *** working when i did my swap ...but it ran. Dont bother trying to starting it until you get the fuel problem at least half *** sorted.
#120
and lonnie @ lonnie performance, said maybe its because i didn't change the little black housing that the regulator sits in ?
maybe i should just put the old 1 back in ? cause it seem pretty hard to replace that housing for the regulator, he said something bout having to use a drill to turn the tube while prying on it with a flat head and walking it off the pump assembly
maybe i should just put the old 1 back in ? cause it seem pretty hard to replace that housing for the regulator, he said something bout having to use a drill to turn the tube while prying on it with a flat head and walking it off the pump assembly
Last edited by devic; 07-28-2012 at 09:44 PM.