4" cutout guys come in (done, w/pics)
#1
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From: Meridian, MS
4" cutout guys come in (done, w/pics)
i'm looking at electric openers and down to DMH or QTP. i know the qtp will fit in the location but i don't know if the dmh is smaller or larger?
where can i get a 3bolt short dump for it? i have looked all over but found nothing that i think will work. i did manage to find a 4"-3" stainless cone reducer! so my entire system is stainless, except a short turndown/dump....
where can i get a 3bolt short dump for it? i have looked all over but found nothing that i think will work. i did manage to find a 4"-3" stainless cone reducer! so my entire system is stainless, except a short turndown/dump....
Last edited by SSwanner; 09-23-2012 at 08:36 PM.
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From: Turnin' Wrenches Infractions: 005
I'm running the QTP and so far its been great. The switch that comes with it is shitty (too big and ugly), so I ditched it for a better one that blends well with the interior. I am not running any kind of dump though so I can't help you on that part. My suggestion would be to make exactly what you want, there aren't many options for 4 inch stuff.
#3
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QTP here also. The switch is crap for sure. I flipped the switch a few weeks ago to open the cutout and it is soposed to click back when you let it go. My switch stuck in the open position for over 30 seconds before I realized it and now the blade flutters when I am driving and sounds like a can rattling. Soposed to hold the switch for no more than 5 seconds to have the blade fully open. Sounds like **** now. Have to rig a low tension spring to the blade to keep it closed and not rattle, yet be weak enough to now bog the motor down when it is opening up.
Turn down you will need to make yourself. When I ordered the QTP 4" cutout pipe, they give you a flange to make the turndown. Then just mock it up and figure out what angle / position you need to have and weld it. These are some crappy pics that may give you an idea:
Turn down you will need to make yourself. When I ordered the QTP 4" cutout pipe, they give you a flange to make the turndown. Then just mock it up and figure out what angle / position you need to have and weld it. These are some crappy pics that may give you an idea:
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QTP here also. The switch is crap for sure. I flipped the switch a few weeks ago to open the cutout and it is soposed to click back when you let it go. My switch stuck in the open position for over 30 seconds before I realized it and now the blade flutters when I am driving and sounds like a can rattling. Soposed to hold the switch for no more than 5 seconds to have the blade fully open. Sounds like **** now. Have to rig a low tension spring to the blade to keep it closed and not rattle, yet be weak enough to now bog the motor down when it is opening up.
Turn down you will need to make yourself. When I ordered the QTP 4" cutout pipe, they give you a flange to make the turndown. Then just mock it up and figure out what angle / position you need to have and weld it. These are some crappy pics that may give you an idea:
Turn down you will need to make yourself. When I ordered the QTP 4" cutout pipe, they give you a flange to make the turndown. Then just mock it up and figure out what angle / position you need to have and weld it. These are some crappy pics that may give you an idea:
#7
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nah, shortest and smallest case dia. 4" Dynomax bullet they make. Put it there to eliminate rasp when the cutout is open. Had to flatten a small part of the bullet case and massage the floor a bit to fit it. I haven't seen anyone add one. You have to cut a lot from each piece to make it all fit and have enough room to tie in w/ the Magnaflow catback. Open cutout w/ the exhaust and mods I have, cannot explain how wicked it sounds open. Problem occurs when it's closed due to the shitty switch messin up the cutout and the blade rattle. Need time to rig a spring up to fix that.
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From: Meridian, MS
thanks guys, bit the bullet and ordered the qtp from SR today with the extra flange and i got a 4" stainless 45* mandrel bend to make the dump. thanks for the pics and keep them coming! i'll have to post some of mine when its all done. now its all SS from flange to tips
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finally got it all done! well still have one weld to make but its not a have to at this point. i found a stainless 4-3" reducer on fleabay, so its all SS and tig welded!