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Tsp stainless ypipe help

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Old 01-16-2013, 09:54 PM
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Nope. Still draggin *** everywhere.
Old 01-17-2013, 08:39 AM
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Sticking it to the man.
Old 01-17-2013, 09:25 AM
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I had to take a chop saw to my drivers side piece right off the header and shorten it about 3" to make it work with my hooker long tubes. it tucked up nicely once I was done. without cutting it put the exit too far to the pass side to line up. I'm most upset bout the 2.5" exit. I had to drive a small piece of pipe over it just to get my factory I pipe to fit tight enough to clamp. but I have a fm merge now and bigger ideas lol.
Old 01-17-2013, 10:29 AM
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I am having this exact same problem. I got it to fit perfect when I was running my stock torque arm, but now I have a bmr (standard length) torque arm and the clearance is tighter. I suppose if you support the rear of the car on jack stands at the axle tubes it should tuck the suspension up closer to ride height and give more clearance at the torque arm. I'm gonna try this weekend.
Old 01-17-2013, 03:56 PM
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I know this may sound crazy but this is what I do to y pipes that I make. Look under the driver side and you will see a reinforcement rib that runs on the floor of the car. Mark the the first section that comes off the header off the car with a marker or something on each side of that rib. Take that secton of the pipe and put it in a vice and start cranking down on it until you start to ovalize the pipe. The key is to get it ovalized enough to where you can run the pipe straight off the header instead of having to angle it down which is what you are doing to get it off the floor of the car. It absolutely will not affect performance and it makes life much easier.

P.S. You may want to use a block of wood on each side of the pipe or some other material to spread the mash points of the jaws on the vice out so you aren't flattening in one spot but rather a wider area if that makes sense.
Old 01-18-2013, 01:49 PM
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Originally Posted by 99'CajunFirehawk157
Thats sounds good and all but if memory serves the reason that first pipe is blowing down like that is due to it hitting the cross member under the drivers seat. I may be wrong and over the up coming holidays which starts after work today I plan to revisit this and I really hope your correct but I don't think that is possible, like I posted I tried every which way I could, my car only gets driven 10 times a year max so there was no rushing when I did the install. Lets think positive, so far so good. Mayians might have been wrong?
Which is why you need to ovalize the pipe like I said in my previous post. For a true bolt on tsp should have that spot in the y pipe flattened like the pacesetter and then you could just avoid that extra piece of pipe all together.

The old TSP y pipe was a piece. This one is nice and ohh so close to being as perfect as you can get with the exception of the fact it needs that flat spot.



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