K&N vs Flowpac
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Nov 2012
Posts: 179
Likes: 1
From: San Diego, California
K&N vs Flowpac Hey guys, i have a stock 2002 Z28 with slp lm. I am looking for a cold air intake, i want either the K&N cold air intake or the slp flowpac, does the K&N have heat soak problems? which is better?
You do not want the SLP Flopac, it's about the worst
of the CAI systems in every respect except the steel
construction (which is also responsible for most of the
problem, big-time heat soak). The K&N CAI, I haven't
seen up close but I'm against oiled filters on MAF cars.
I recommend a lid and a good hood - core support seal,
with some relieving of the "nostrils" to open up the air
path there (styrofoam needs trimmed, steak knife will
do). And relocation of the IAT to outside the engine
bay.
Do this and your air will be, and will read, same as
outside. And you'll save about a hundred bucks or
more.
of the CAI systems in every respect except the steel
construction (which is also responsible for most of the
problem, big-time heat soak). The K&N CAI, I haven't
seen up close but I'm against oiled filters on MAF cars.
I recommend a lid and a good hood - core support seal,
with some relieving of the "nostrils" to open up the air
path there (styrofoam needs trimmed, steak knife will
do). And relocation of the IAT to outside the engine
bay.
Do this and your air will be, and will read, same as
outside. And you'll save about a hundred bucks or
more.
Don't go with that type of intake. The lid is the best intake you can put on these cars. Hell, a lid is the best type of intake on any bottom breather (see Corvette and the Callaway CAI).
Stop buying into hype. Those are a waste of money.
Instead, put an FTP 85mm if you want to run your stock or Z06 MAF or run SD. Or go with the 104 if you want to run a 102mm TB and 100mm MAF. Then add the Chrs1313 Ram Air to force feed the lid/box with cold, pressurized air from underneath the car.
Stop buying into hype. Those are a waste of money.
Instead, put an FTP 85mm if you want to run your stock or Z06 MAF or run SD. Or go with the 104 if you want to run a 102mm TB and 100mm MAF. Then add the Chrs1313 Ram Air to force feed the lid/box with cold, pressurized air from underneath the car.
Launching!
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 266
Likes: 0
From: Richmond, VA
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Flowpac is a very expensive kit. Just buy the SLP lid for 89, and the CHRS1313 ram air for 200. It's the same thing but cheaper.
And no - it's a true cold air kit. No heatsoak.
The K&N on the other hand is an open element sitting next to the engine. It'll suck in hot air. It also sits crooked in the engine back and doesn't align with the throttle-body. K&N did an AWESOME job designing that.
And no - it's a true cold air kit. No heatsoak.
The K&N on the other hand is an open element sitting next to the engine. It'll suck in hot air. It also sits crooked in the engine back and doesn't align with the throttle-body. K&N did an AWESOME job designing that.
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I am going to call 
on this exaggeration - the SLP CAI brought noticeable pickup at highway speeds on both my SS & RS. Unsubstantiated claims on 'Tech don't fly -- so let's hear these "every respect"s?
Also, what do you mean by "core support seal"?
on this exaggeration - the SLP CAI brought noticeable pickup at highway speeds on both my SS & RS. Unsubstantiated claims on 'Tech don't fly -- so let's hear these "every respect"s?Also, what do you mean by "core support seal"?
You do not want the SLP Flopac, it's about the worst
of the CAI systems in every respect except the steel
construction (which is also responsible for most of the
problem, big-time heat soak). The K&N CAI, I haven't
seen up close but I'm against oiled filters on MAF cars.
I recommend a lid and a good hood - core support seal,
with some relieving of the "nostrils" to open up the air
path there (styrofoam needs trimmed, steak knife will
do). And relocation of the IAT to outside the engine
bay.
Do this and your air will be, and will read, same as
outside. And you'll save about a hundred bucks or
more.
of the CAI systems in every respect except the steel
construction (which is also responsible for most of the
problem, big-time heat soak). The K&N CAI, I haven't
seen up close but I'm against oiled filters on MAF cars.
I recommend a lid and a good hood - core support seal,
with some relieving of the "nostrils" to open up the air
path there (styrofoam needs trimmed, steak knife will
do). And relocation of the IAT to outside the engine
bay.
Do this and your air will be, and will read, same as
outside. And you'll save about a hundred bucks or
more.
Running the flow pac as well, pieced it together from members on here, bellows, lid and the steel scoop, deff noticed a bit of pickup at highway speeds. Try and do the same, find people who have the kit used or buy bits and pieces here and there an you'll still save money, and as for the rubber seals and other hardware contact slp and they'll ship you all new seals and hardware for about 20 bucks, in the end I think I saved around 165 bucks if I remeber correct I think I paid 85 for the lid and bellows, 60 for the steel scoop then the 20 bucks for the seals and hardware new from slp. Do some parts searching and you can probably come out the same or better if you're lucky
