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Questions on 5.3 build.

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Old 06-23-2013, 12:46 PM
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Default Questions on 5.3 build.

I will have many questions so I am starting a thread to ask them in. I will try the search feature before asking anything.

(1) I cant find info on how to hold the crank pulley when trying to remove the center bolt.

(2) Also I can not figure out how to remove the two fuel line connectors on the intake manifold. I took the metal retainers off and do not know what to do next.

Thanks
Old 06-23-2013, 08:28 PM
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If you have a m6 just apply the parking brake and put it in gear. If you have an A4 remove the starter and jam a screw driver in the flywheel. You need a fuel line removals tool from your local part store, something like this.
http://m.sears.com/productdetails.do...0125xMPTLSx025
Old 06-23-2013, 08:30 PM
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Originally Posted by D14HUGGER.ORANGE
If you have a m6 just apply the parking brake and put it in gear. If you have an A4 remove the starter and jam a screw driver in the flywheel. You need a fuel line removals tool from your local part store, something like this.
http://m.sears.com/productdetails.do...0125xMPTLSx025
The crank pulley bolt is torqued down, so your going to need a pipe to slip over the breaker bar for leverage.
Old 06-23-2013, 11:32 PM
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If you have an M6 and try the emergency brake thing I would have the back of the car in the air. I have seen people try it with just the front on jack stands and the e brake not hold the car and the car start to move. I don't know which one of us was more scared.
Old 06-23-2013, 11:33 PM
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Someone on here sells a tool that bolts to the bolt holding the flywheel. That bolt is REALLY tight and with it being so long it and being TTYL makes it worse.
Old 06-25-2013, 01:51 AM
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The motor is on a engine stand, I will try putting the flex plate on to hold the crank.
Old 07-25-2013, 07:52 PM
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What do you guys use to hold the water pump pulley still while removing the fan on a 5.3 truck engine?
Old 07-26-2013, 10:55 PM
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Does anyone have a picture of a tool to hold the water pump pulley?
Old 07-27-2013, 02:10 PM
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If memory serves me correct the flywheel lock from Kent Moore is a J-42386-A. I can't remember the part number for the water pump lock but I know there is one.
Old 07-27-2013, 07:19 PM
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to remove the water pump use a strap wrench to hold it.
Old 07-28-2013, 06:38 AM
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Here are 2 ways to stabilize the crank to remove the balancer / timing gear:





And for the fuel lines, go to a parts store and buy the correct tools. I got these for $3 each at Oreilly auto parts.

Old 07-28-2013, 05:38 PM
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Originally Posted by RezinTexas
Here are 2 ways to stabilize the crank to remove the balancer / timing gear:



Thanks guys.

I tried the block of wood but the crank crushed it. I was able to get it done by bolting the flex plate on and bolting a chain to it.

I found a spanner wrench in my tool box that worked for the water pump pulley.

My next item is deciding what kind of fuel pump to run. I am toying with a in tank retrofit using a Walbro 255lph pump.
Old 07-28-2013, 06:39 PM
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Originally Posted by Redchevyman
The motor is on a engine stand, I will try putting the flex plate on to hold the crank.
You won't get the flex plate on with it on the stand. Just put 2 flex plate bolts in the crank and wedge a pry bar between the 2 bolts and the engine stand. Works every time.
Old 08-07-2013, 06:10 PM
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My next challenge is how to plumb the fuel pump.
I have a 1970 Chevelle and need a plan on how to get fuel from the tank to the engine.

How have you guys done it?

The tank has a 1-3/4" opening for the sending unit. I am open to either in tank pump or external.

I looked at Walbro inline and can not find 10mm x 1.0 to 3/8 barb for the suction inlet or 10mm x 1.0 to male quick connect fittings for the pressure side.

Part #s and pictures if you get em please.

Last edited by Redchevyman; 08-07-2013 at 06:27 PM.
Old 08-12-2013, 04:42 PM
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I ended up buying a Walbro on EBay that comes with a mounting kit with fuel line fittings.

Next step is wiring up the modified engine harness. My harness was missing some sections to the transmission and 02 sensor.

What sensors are needed to run a stand alone harness
Old 08-12-2013, 06:14 PM
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Originally Posted by Redchevyman
I ended up buying a Walbro on EBay that comes with a mounting kit with fuel line fittings.
If you bought a Walbro on ebay, chances are real good that it's a chineese clone and won't last three months. Always buy Walbro from Walbro dealers that won't sell fakes.
Old 08-17-2013, 01:28 AM
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Originally Posted by LS1MCSS
If you bought a Walbro on ebay, chances are real good that it's a chineese clone and won't last three months. Always buy Walbro from Walbro dealers that won't sell fakes.
It was from a Walbro Dealer and is legit. Thanks for the vote of confidence and your helpful tips
Old 08-20-2013, 04:40 PM
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I bolted on the spacer ring to use a th350 on my 5.3. The only problem is the bolts that are recommend for it only have 1/4" of thread to grab onto the crank.

If I tried to torque them I think they would strip. Has anyone here used the 10mm thick GM spacer? What length bolt did you use? I have 11mmx1.5x23mm and it seems too short.
Old 08-20-2013, 05:00 PM
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Originally Posted by Redchevyman
I bolted on the spacer ring to use a th350 on my 5.3. The only problem is the bolts that are recommend for it only have 1/4" of thread to grab onto the crank.

If I tried to torque them I think they would strip. Has anyone here used the 10mm thick GM spacer? What length bolt did you use? I have 11mmx1.5x23mm and it seems too short.
Maybe the wrong bolts were shipped with it? I have a factory GM spacer and the bolts that came with it and everything is right on the money with the 700r4 flex plate.
Old 08-21-2013, 08:34 AM
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Originally Posted by bww3588
Maybe the wrong bolts were shipped with it? I have a factory GM spacer and the bolts that came with it and everything is right on the money with the 700r4 flex plate.
I am going to call my local GM dealer today and have them measure a p/n 19257940 bolt for me.


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