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Planning a build for a restrictive race class

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Old Jun 27, 2013 | 07:22 PM
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Default Planning a build for a restrictive race class

I spun a couple bearings, so it's time to rebuild the LS1 in my 99 Z28.

I autocross in the SCCA's ESP class, which has pretty restrictive build rules. I can't change anything in the long block; the heads, cam, and rotating assembly all have to be stock. But anything from the air filter to the head's intake ports, and from the exhaust ports out is fair game.

The car dynoed 343 hp and 354 lb-ft with a UD pulley, tune, SLP air box, stock MAF, ported stock TB, LS6 intake, and QTP headers. Given the rule set I'm stuck with, is there any sense in changing any of those intake parts while the engine is out of the car?

EDIT: Actually, I can deck the heads by .010, but I'm not sure it's worth the trouble. Thoughts?

Last edited by Mercutio; Jun 28, 2013 at 05:25 PM.
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Old Jun 27, 2013 | 10:58 PM
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Can you go with a thinner head gaskets..?
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Old Jun 28, 2013 | 05:55 AM
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Originally Posted by 99Bluz28
Can you go with a thinner head gaskets..?
I'll double check, but I don't think so.
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Old Jun 28, 2013 | 02:50 PM
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Since you already have too much power within that class (especially for autocross use in a front weight biased, RWD car which has some problems putting down STOCK power, even with sticky Hoosier 315/30/17 gumballs at all four corners)), I would ONLY do things to help the longevity/reliability of your LS1, and put what you would have spent on that into whatever (very restrictive by E/SP rules as well, I KNOW ) suspension/DIFF (T2R or otherwise)/wheel & tire/brakes/seating/weight reduction/etc. you can.
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Old Jun 28, 2013 | 05:25 PM
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Originally Posted by dailydriver
Since you already have too much power within that class (especially for autocross use in a front weight biased, RWD car which has some problems putting down STOCK power, even with sticky Hoosier 315/30/17 gumballs at all four corners)), I would ONLY do things to help the longevity/reliability of your LS1, and put what you would have spent on that into whatever (very restrictive by E/SP rules as well, I KNOW ) suspension/DIFF (T2R or otherwise)/wheel & tire/brakes/seating/weight reduction/etc. you can.
The car is almost fully built, and the suspension is sorted. It pretty much has everything Sam Strano recommends and sells. The current weight is about 3335, and I'll be putting in a lighter flywheel/clutch (currently has an LS2/LS7 setup). I can probably get it down near 3300.

I'd disagree that I have too much power for the class, or for the chassis. I'm not afraid of a little more.
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Old Jun 29, 2013 | 03:49 PM
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Which diff are you using, an EARLY T2R??
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Old Jun 29, 2013 | 05:22 PM
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There really aren't any good diff options. I have an Auburn Racer because at least it's warrantied and rebuildable.
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Old Jun 30, 2013 | 04:07 PM
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Originally Posted by Mercutio
There really aren't any good diff options. I have an Auburn Racer because at least it's warrantied and rebuildable.
Yes, I KNOW.

One of the members over on frrax.com had contacted Quaife about making a run of high bias diffs for our 10 bolts, but he could not get the required amount of pre-paid commitments to get them to do the run.
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Old Jul 1, 2013 | 07:24 PM
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So back to the original question...any point in upgrading the MAF, TB, intake manifold, or anything else to use with the stock heads, cam, and rotating assembly?
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Old Jul 2, 2013 | 09:56 PM
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can you do an electric water pump?
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Old Jul 3, 2013 | 09:08 PM
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No. Water pumps must remain stock, but a lighter pulley (if there's one available, which I haven't seen) would be legal.
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