Another underdrive/harmonic balancer pulley question
Another underdrive/harmonic balancer pulley question Ok, so sorry if this has been covered 100 times before, but I couldn't find a concrete answer. Which would be more beneficial and why? A 10% or 25% underdriven pulley? And which brand is acceptable? ATI? ASP? Fluidamper? And why? For what its worth, I have heads, cam, intake, full exhaust, stock cubes. What is the best bang for my buck?
Depends how much extra little power you want. Almost anyone goes with a 25% UD now days. A SLP is a legit pulley for the price and quality, but ATI is top notch but its more $. Id rather go with a ATI regardless of the price if you are willing to pay for it. You dont wanna go too cheap on a pulley specially if you drive around alot.
I have an SLP UDP. Gained 1/10" and a couple mph. I see no charging issues. My car is cammed and idles at 900rpms vs the stock 650 or so...that may be why.
ATI is almost twice the cost of the SLP/Powerbond.
ATI is almost twice the cost of the SLP/Powerbond.
Trending Topics
the ATI is the far superior pulley to the others.... its the reason why NHRA guys use it and they dont use anything else.
you probably wont see issues from a 10% underdrive....but if you do, just know there are alternator upgrades you can do to counteract it....the simplest thing is to buy a different alternator pulley..you can also buy a better alternator with an exciter made to come in sooner at lower alternator RPM.
one thing to remember....
Just switching to an ATI damper alone(the full size one) is good enough to gain you a little power thru superior Harmonic Dampening.
as you go up in power, you need all the dampening you can get...vibration will tear the hell out of your bottom end...
guys with an ATI typically can push the limits of the stock bottom end further because of better harmnonic control.
once you get upwards of 600 RWHP... its time to stick with the bigger one...not enough dampening power in the underdrive pulleys....
and if you use a cheaper SLP underdrive... dont expect much past 500 RWHP to be safe.
also, High RPM, means you need a full size damper and not a smaller underdrive one
you probably wont see issues from a 10% underdrive....but if you do, just know there are alternator upgrades you can do to counteract it....the simplest thing is to buy a different alternator pulley..you can also buy a better alternator with an exciter made to come in sooner at lower alternator RPM.
one thing to remember....
Just switching to an ATI damper alone(the full size one) is good enough to gain you a little power thru superior Harmonic Dampening.
as you go up in power, you need all the dampening you can get...vibration will tear the hell out of your bottom end...
guys with an ATI typically can push the limits of the stock bottom end further because of better harmnonic control.
once you get upwards of 600 RWHP... its time to stick with the bigger one...not enough dampening power in the underdrive pulleys....
and if you use a cheaper SLP underdrive... dont expect much past 500 RWHP to be safe.
also, High RPM, means you need a full size damper and not a smaller underdrive one
LS1 Tech Stories
The Best V8 Stories One Small Block at Time
6 Common C5 Corvette Failures and What's Involved In Repairing Them
Pouria Savadkouei
Retro Modern Bandit Pontiac Trans AM Comes With Burt Reynolds' Autograph
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Greatest Cadillac V Series Performance Models Ever, Ranked
Pouria Savadkouei
Top 10 Most Powerful Chevy Trucks Ever Made!
Hennessey's New Supercharged Silverado ZR2 Has 700 HP
Verdad Gallardo
Coachbuilt N2A Anteros Is an LS2-Powered C6 Corvette In Italian Clothes
Verdad Gallardo
Awesome K5 Blazer Restomod Comes With C7 Corvette Power
Verdad Gallardo
10 Camaros You Should Never Buy
10 LS Engine Myths That Refuse to Die
Verdad Gallardo
the ATI is the far superior pulley to the others.... its the reason why NHRA guys use it and they dont use anything else.
you probably wont see issues from a 10% underdrive....but if you do, just know there are alternator upgrades you can do to counteract it....the simplest thing is to buy a different alternator pulley..you can also buy a better alternator with an exciter made to come in sooner at lower alternator RPM.
one thing to remember....
Just switching to an ATI damper alone(the full size one) is good enough to gain you a little power thru superior Harmonic Dampening.
as you go up in power, you need all the dampening you can get...vibration will tear the hell out of your bottom end...
guys with an ATI typically can push the limits of the stock bottom end further because of better harmnonic control.
once you get upwards of 600 RWHP... its time to stick with the bigger one...not enough dampening power in the underdrive pulleys....
and if you use a cheaper SLP underdrive... dont expect much past 500 RWHP to be safe.
also, High RPM, means you need a full size damper and not a smaller underdrive one
you probably wont see issues from a 10% underdrive....but if you do, just know there are alternator upgrades you can do to counteract it....the simplest thing is to buy a different alternator pulley..you can also buy a better alternator with an exciter made to come in sooner at lower alternator RPM.
one thing to remember....
Just switching to an ATI damper alone(the full size one) is good enough to gain you a little power thru superior Harmonic Dampening.
as you go up in power, you need all the dampening you can get...vibration will tear the hell out of your bottom end...
guys with an ATI typically can push the limits of the stock bottom end further because of better harmnonic control.
once you get upwards of 600 RWHP... its time to stick with the bigger one...not enough dampening power in the underdrive pulleys....
and if you use a cheaper SLP underdrive... dont expect much past 500 RWHP to be safe.
also, High RPM, means you need a full size damper and not a smaller underdrive one
Scoggin Dickey has a Powerbond 25% underdrive pulley, new bolt, and belts for $200-$225 I believe. I've had a Powerbond 25% underdrive on both my ws6 (a4) and now my c5 (m6). Never have I had any issues with lights dimming, steering getting harder, battery not charging, AC getting warmer, etc. I think very very few people even experience one of these issues above and just re-post what they've seen other people post. My throttle response was quicker, not sure how much power I gained from it but my car was tuned/dyno'ed with it installed with other parts. I have a few friends with the Powerbond 25% underdrive with heads/cam setup's on their f-bodies and c5z's.
Damper - 917242
4 Rib Rear for AC - 916734
Hub for Pulleys - 916031
and "Cheap" is not going to go in the description when you are talking about a Good Damper
http://www.atiracing.com/products/da...ts/damserp.htm
the ATI is the far superior pulley to the others.... its the reason why NHRA guys use it and they dont use anything else.
you probably wont see issues from a 10% underdrive....but if you do, just know there are alternator upgrades you can do to counteract it....the simplest thing is to buy a different alternator pulley..you can also buy a better alternator with an exciter made to come in sooner at lower alternator RPM.
one thing to remember....
Just switching to an ATI damper alone(the full size one) is good enough to gain you a little power thru superior Harmonic Dampening.
as you go up in power, you need all the dampening you can get...vibration will tear the hell out of your bottom end...
guys with an ATI typically can push the limits of the stock bottom end further because of better harmnonic control.
once you get upwards of 600 RWHP... its time to stick with the bigger one...not enough dampening power in the underdrive pulleys....
and if you use a cheaper SLP underdrive... dont expect much past 500 RWHP to be safe.
also, High RPM, means you need a full size damper and not a smaller underdrive one
you probably wont see issues from a 10% underdrive....but if you do, just know there are alternator upgrades you can do to counteract it....the simplest thing is to buy a different alternator pulley..you can also buy a better alternator with an exciter made to come in sooner at lower alternator RPM.
one thing to remember....
Just switching to an ATI damper alone(the full size one) is good enough to gain you a little power thru superior Harmonic Dampening.
as you go up in power, you need all the dampening you can get...vibration will tear the hell out of your bottom end...
guys with an ATI typically can push the limits of the stock bottom end further because of better harmnonic control.
once you get upwards of 600 RWHP... its time to stick with the bigger one...not enough dampening power in the underdrive pulleys....
and if you use a cheaper SLP underdrive... dont expect much past 500 RWHP to be safe.
also, High RPM, means you need a full size damper and not a smaller underdrive one
Thanks for the part numbers fellas. So full size and not 10% underdriven?
Wait, I need to order those other 2 parts to get this to work? The hub and ac ?
Wait, I need to order those other 2 parts to get this to work? The hub and ac ?
Last edited by UnVMySS; Oct 21, 2013 at 01:36 PM.
your engine will be happier with the full size...
and honestly, it will make more power into higher rpms with the full size than you will with the underdrive....
it takes Mass to absorb vibrations....and the underdrive pulley has less mass than the full size.
and honestly, it will make more power into higher rpms with the full size than you will with the underdrive....
it takes Mass to absorb vibrations....and the underdrive pulley has less mass than the full size.