What oil pan to use F-body?
#1
TECH Apprentice
Thread Starter
iTrader: (10)
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: El Paso, TX
Posts: 319
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/ranks/ls1tech10year.png)
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Going with a Stroked LQ9 in my 99 Z28 and due to being run off the road my LS1 oil pan cracked so i'm in the process of rebuilding the car. Which oil pan would work best with my BMR turbo K member? is my bes bet to find another LS1 oil pan? are there any oil pans that would work good with a turbo?
any help would be appreciated
any help would be appreciated
#2
TECH Addict
iTrader: (88)
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Going with a Stroked LQ9 in my 99 Z28 and due to being run off the road my LS1 oil pan cracked so i'm in the process of rebuilding the car. Which oil pan would work best with my BMR turbo K member? is my bes bet to find another LS1 oil pan? are there any oil pans that would work good with a turbo?
any help would be appreciated
any help would be appreciated
I would stick with the ls1 pan personally, it's already a proven piece that fits the setup you have.
#3
12 Second Club
iTrader: (26)
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
The only thing I can think of about an aftermarket pan is that most have extra baffles to keep the oil on the pump and not starve it on acceleration or cornering. I think the stock pan will give you more than enough protection from these obstacles. Plus stock pans are cheaper!
Chad
Chad
#6
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Just a side note, if your hot side runs very close to the pan, wrap it to avoid heating the oil up if its a street driven car. I would think a stock fbody pan would be plenty unless you are planning on ridiculous wheel stands.
Trending Topics
#9
Super Hulk Smash
iTrader: (7)
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Run the stock pan. It's integral to the strength of the block. I don't know if all aftermarket pans are built that way.
http://www.improvedracing.com/baffle...body-p-75.html
I'd run the new pan, new gasket, and the Improved Racing baffle (maybe even a new pickup since it's $30). I thought about running the baffle on my car. When I pull the motor again to rebuild the bottom end and drop in a UMI K-Member, I'll grab their baffle.
http://www.improvedracing.com/baffle...body-p-75.html
I'd run the new pan, new gasket, and the Improved Racing baffle (maybe even a new pickup since it's $30). I thought about running the baffle on my car. When I pull the motor again to rebuild the bottom end and drop in a UMI K-Member, I'll grab their baffle.
#10
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
On what part, heating the oil up, or starvation?
Im fairly new to LS internals, but not to everything. Improved racing pans are great, I used one on ultra 4 car that spends a lot of time on 2 wheels one way or another.
I also built a new downpipe for a 940hp mustang street car that ran an inch from the oil pan. Oil temps dropped 40 degrees and the pan no longer had charred oil caked to the passenger side.
If I sound like an idiot you can at least explain why. I'm just here to learn a thing or 2 and help other people avoid mistakes i've made.
Im fairly new to LS internals, but not to everything. Improved racing pans are great, I used one on ultra 4 car that spends a lot of time on 2 wheels one way or another.
I also built a new downpipe for a 940hp mustang street car that ran an inch from the oil pan. Oil temps dropped 40 degrees and the pan no longer had charred oil caked to the passenger side.
If I sound like an idiot you can at least explain why. I'm just here to learn a thing or 2 and help other people avoid mistakes i've made.
#11
TECH Senior Member
iTrader: (96)
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Turnin' Wrenches Infractions: 005
Posts: 24,241
Likes: 0
Received 81 Likes
on
72 Posts
![](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/ranks/ls1tech10year.png)
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Doesn't take but about a 1.6ish 60 ft to run the pump dry in first gear. While that's not a hard 60ft to achieve, most play with fire and don't get burned. Any faster and it becomes a mandatory upgrade. No ifs ands or buts about it, that is of course if you like your bearings
![Grin](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_grin.gif)
#13
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Doesn't take but about a 1.6ish 60 ft to run the pump dry in first gear. While that's not a hard 60ft to achieve, most play with fire and don't get burned. Any faster and it becomes a mandatory upgrade. No ifs ands or buts about it, that is of course if you like your bearings ![Grin](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_grin.gif)
![Grin](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_grin.gif)
#14
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
And I do like bearings.. especially when they stay in the rods... haha. I have a nice pile of ls1 rod bearing chunks from a friends prerunner sitting on my bench. Just got off of the phone, he is still running the stock fbody pan on his new turnkey ls3 stroker. This thread may very well have saved a $16000 crate motor!