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What oil pan to use F-body?

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Old 01-06-2014, 09:32 PM
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Default What oil pan to use F-body?

Going with a Stroked LQ9 in my 99 Z28 and due to being run off the road my LS1 oil pan cracked so i'm in the process of rebuilding the car. Which oil pan would work best with my BMR turbo K member? is my bes bet to find another LS1 oil pan? are there any oil pans that would work good with a turbo?

any help would be appreciated
Old 01-07-2014, 10:14 AM
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Originally Posted by Z28Dave
Going with a Stroked LQ9 in my 99 Z28 and due to being run off the road my LS1 oil pan cracked so i'm in the process of rebuilding the car. Which oil pan would work best with my BMR turbo K member? is my bes bet to find another LS1 oil pan? are there any oil pans that would work good with a turbo?

any help would be appreciated
If its a hairline crack you might be able to get it repaired.

I would stick with the ls1 pan personally, it's already a proven piece that fits the setup you have.
Old 01-07-2014, 10:17 AM
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The only thing I can think of about an aftermarket pan is that most have extra baffles to keep the oil on the pump and not starve it on acceleration or cornering. I think the stock pan will give you more than enough protection from these obstacles. Plus stock pans are cheaper!

Chad
Old 01-09-2014, 04:00 PM
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Buy a new stock pan and get the improved racing baffle to control oil on accel.
Old 01-14-2014, 09:02 PM
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Originally Posted by 01ssreda4
Buy a new stock pan and get the improved racing baffle to control oil on accel.
where can U get the baffle?
Old 01-18-2014, 09:05 PM
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Just a side note, if your hot side runs very close to the pan, wrap it to avoid heating the oil up if its a street driven car. I would think a stock fbody pan would be plenty unless you are planning on ridiculous wheel stands.
Old 01-19-2014, 02:15 PM
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I said it, Improved Racing.
Old 01-19-2014, 02:19 PM
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Originally Posted by peacesells63
Just a side note, if your hot side runs very close to the pan, wrap it to avoid heating the oil up if its a street driven car. I would think a stock fbody pan would be plenty unless you are planning on ridiculous wheel stands.
I think you need to do more research on what your spewing.
Old 01-19-2014, 11:35 PM
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Run the stock pan. It's integral to the strength of the block. I don't know if all aftermarket pans are built that way.

http://www.improvedracing.com/baffle...body-p-75.html

I'd run the new pan, new gasket, and the Improved Racing baffle (maybe even a new pickup since it's $30). I thought about running the baffle on my car. When I pull the motor again to rebuild the bottom end and drop in a UMI K-Member, I'll grab their baffle.
Old 01-21-2014, 03:06 AM
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Originally Posted by 01ssreda4
I think you need to do more research on what your spewing.
On what part, heating the oil up, or starvation?

Im fairly new to LS internals, but not to everything. Improved racing pans are great, I used one on ultra 4 car that spends a lot of time on 2 wheels one way or another.

I also built a new downpipe for a 940hp mustang street car that ran an inch from the oil pan. Oil temps dropped 40 degrees and the pan no longer had charred oil caked to the passenger side.

If I sound like an idiot you can at least explain why. I'm just here to learn a thing or 2 and help other people avoid mistakes i've made.
Old 01-23-2014, 01:49 PM
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Doesn't take but about a 1.6ish 60 ft to run the pump dry in first gear. While that's not a hard 60ft to achieve, most play with fire and don't get burned. Any faster and it becomes a mandatory upgrade. No ifs ands or buts about it, that is of course if you like your bearings
Old 01-23-2014, 01:53 PM
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Here's just the baffle:

http://www.improvedracing.com/baffle...ffle-p-30.html
Old 01-23-2014, 09:22 PM
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Originally Posted by 01ssreda4
Doesn't take but about a 1.6ish 60 ft to run the pump dry in first gear. While that's not a hard 60ft to achieve, most play with fire and don't get burned. Any faster and it becomes a mandatory upgrade. No ifs ands or buts about it, that is of course if you like your bearings
Good to know, thanks for clarifying. I'm coming from ford motors, where the rear sump oil pickup is about 4in further back than the F body pans.
Old 01-23-2014, 09:43 PM
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And I do like bearings.. especially when they stay in the rods... haha. I have a nice pile of ls1 rod bearing chunks from a friends prerunner sitting on my bench. Just got off of the phone, he is still running the stock fbody pan on his new turnkey ls3 stroker. This thread may very well have saved a $16000 crate motor!
Old 01-24-2014, 09:09 AM
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I have heard of people adding between half a quart and a quart of oil to help reduce oil starvation.

I don't know if this would work or if it would create additional problems with windage and such.

Has anyone else heard of this and does it infact benefit or hurt?
Old 01-24-2014, 09:06 PM
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I do it because I have the stock tray. I'm going to watch my oil psi gauge next track outing.
Old 01-25-2014, 09:12 PM
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Originally Posted by ss performance
I have heard of people adding between half a quart and a quart of oil to help reduce oil starvation.

I don't know if this would work or if it would create additional problems with windage and such.

Has anyone else heard of this and does it infact benefit or hurt?
Yes I'm gonna run 6 qts in mine
Old 01-26-2014, 02:49 AM
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Run the truck filter and 6 qts. Probably robs 2-3HP but helps keep oil in the pan.

Wix 51522 is what I use. It's the truck filter.
Old 01-26-2014, 02:53 AM
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Originally Posted by JakeFusion™
Run the truck filter and 6 qts. Probably robs 2-3HP but helps keep oil in the pan.

Wix 51522 is what I use. It's the truck filter.
Never thought of the truck filter, is it a lot longer? Wouldn't wanna bottom out and take it off lol



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