02DroptopZ

iTrader: (3)

Well, I went to move my car tonight and found that it has an oil leak. It didn't run all winter, but where it sat in my garage there's a few drops on my floor. Looks like a real slow leak from the rear corner of the oil pan on the passenger side. I did not put any RTV there when I had the pan lowered awhile back for my H/C swap, just at the front of the pan, and I'm thinking that is my problem.

So here's my question: Can I just unbolt the pan, lower it a bit, put some RTV in the corners and redo the RTV at the front, and bolt it back up? Or do I need to take off a ton of crap (intake, water pump, timing cover, and crank pulley) first, and then lower the pan? I don't see why I would need to do the latter, but (excuse my pessimism) just unbolting the pan and bolting it back up just seems way too easy, and I don't want to risk damaging something

Also, where exactly do I need to put the RTV in the rear corners, and how much should I use?

luigiandme

iTrader: (2)

You can put the Sealant at the back corners of the pan but I can assure you that its not the lack of RTV back there, its probably due for an oil pan gasket.

If you'd rather just RTV it (bandaid repair) then just remove all the oil pan bolts, and also the two rear transmission to oil pan bolts, and squeeze in a little tube to the far corners of the pan. but be sure to clean it. The problem then lies in the hands of the gasket. Is the oil leaking between the pan and the gasket or the gasket and the block? you're bandaiding the repair by putting RTV between the gasket and block. which you dont need to pull any accessories for any oil pan repairs.

If it were me, I'd lower the k member and fix it the right way by removing the pan and installing a new oil pan gasket. I like the feeling of a perfectly sealed motor. And be sure to put sealant on all four corners and clean the pan reallly well and especially the mating surface on the engine!

ss4chad

iTrader: (26)

Man I wouldnt even dick with it if the leak is that minimal. Take it to a do-it-yourself car wash and spray underneath the car where the oil leak is at with the tire degreaser, then rinse it off and change the oil.

Monitor it and see how fast it takes to see the leak again, if it comes back soon then i would drop the pan and install a new gasket, not RTV. If it doesnt come back for quite a while then your golden!

Chad

Burken01

iTrader: (88)

If its a bad leak I would replace the gasket, pain in the *** but 1 good day of labor and cussing and it'll be over..

You only have to dab a little RTV where the bottom of the front cover gasket touches the oil pan gasket, do the same for the rear cover

Too much rtv and it could bleed into the engine and float around and get stuck somewhere it shouldn't be

01ssreda4

iTrader: (96)

Non fixable without dropping the pan. Sucks but its true.

02DroptopZ

iTrader: (3)

Well, I'm glad I asked before I tore into it. I wasn't even thinking the gasket could be bad, the car only has 30k on it, but I guess it is 12 years old now.. I think I'm just going to clean it up and see how bad the leak really is, if it's bad or gets worse I guess I'll be dropping the pan and doing that rod bolt swap sooner than I was expecting.

Thanks for the advice guys!

patSS/00

iTrader: (6)

Check torque on rear cover bolts (around the filter area) first, might save you a lot of trouble.

GMC5.3

iTrader: (2)

Those of you that have dropped the pan before, is there a write up you followed, I'm about to attempt this and don't know for sure what has to be loosened or come off?

Krab

iTrader: (28)

Here ya go. I remember making this a few years back and that's pretty much what I wanted to know also. Hope it helps. Remember not to completely loosen all of the K-member bolts. You don't want to bend/break your power steering lines.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...-write-up.html

GMC5.3

iTrader: (2)

Sweet thanks for the help