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Shorty Header Install problem....

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Old Jul 13, 2014 | 03:39 PM
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Default Shorty Header Install problem....

Driver side has the bung for upstream O2 sensor. I cannot get the O2 sensor in because of the engine mount.

Need a shorter body O2 sensor or a better suggestion.

Any help or guidance will be greatly appreciated!

Jon
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Old Jul 14, 2014 | 07:18 AM
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Originally Posted by 2000 TAWS6
Driver side has the bung for upstream O2 sensor. I cannot get the O2 sensor in because of the engine mount.

Need a shorter body O2 sensor or a better suggestion.

Any help or guidance will be greatly appreciated!

Jon
Your first problem is that you bought shorties lol

If you're deleting your catalytic converter, you could re-pin the PCM and then have your rear O2's tuned out. Repinning switches the front and rear O2's so that your PCM reads the Front O2's from the Rear position. There is a thread about it somewhere; google "repin pcm o2 sensor".
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Old Jul 14, 2014 | 11:33 AM
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Pull the piece, plug the original bung and have another
bung welded in, where orientation works?

I had no such trouble with the JBAs, but there's a lot
of variation in what's out there.
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Old Jul 14, 2014 | 11:34 AM
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Remove the headers, and weld in new bungs where you need them. In the long run, it will be the cheapest and easiest solution.
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Old Jul 14, 2014 | 12:05 PM
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Hello,

I have another possible solution to solve your issue. If you can wait 2 weeks, I will be removing my JBA's from my 02 Z28. You can then just buy mine haha. May I ask, what brand are your shorties?
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Old Jul 14, 2014 | 01:00 PM
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Originally Posted by cali_bear2003
Hello,

I have another possible solution to solve your issue. If you can wait 2 weeks, I will be removing my JBA's from my 02 Z28. You can then just buy mine haha. May I ask, what brand are your shorties?
Wish I knew, they are nameless.
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Old Jul 14, 2014 | 04:52 PM
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I bought some no-name, allegedly stainless shorties while
I was waiting to find used JBAs, they were craptastic in
the design and rusted like mad just sitting out in the shed.

I like the construction of the JBAs and feel like I lost
nothing by going from Jet-Hot long tubes, probably because
the Jet-Hot Y merge sucked so bad.

A M6 guy who lives in the midband looking for torque,
might be better off with long tubes. Me, I'm up over 5K
RPM as soon as I mat it.
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Old Jul 15, 2014 | 08:04 PM
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Originally Posted by 2000 TAWS6
Driver side has the bung for upstream O2 sensor. I cannot get the O2 sensor in because of the engine mount.

Need a shorter body O2 sensor or a better suggestion.

Any help or guidance will be greatly appreciated!

Jon
I've got Hooker shorty headers on my '98. I was using the Bosch O2's and they fit just fine. I went to replace them with AC Delco O2's and those were too long and also hit the engine mount. They only hit when I was trying to install them...it was a metal piece holding the wires coming out of the sensor. I just needed an extra 1/4"-1/2" or so of clearance to get the AC Delco O2's started and I finally figured out that I just needed to move the exhaust slightly to get the O2 started in the thread. I just used a jack on the y-pipe while the car was up on ramps and shifted the exhaust slightly to get the sensor started. Once it was threaded all the way in, it didn't hit the engine mount.
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Old Jul 16, 2014 | 07:01 PM
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Originally Posted by BandDirector Blk98ZM6
I've got Hooker shorty headers on my '98. I was using the Bosch O2's and they fit just fine. I went to replace them with AC Delco O2's and those were too long and also hit the engine mount. They only hit when I was trying to install them...it was a metal piece holding the wires coming out of the sensor. I just needed an extra 1/4"-1/2" or so of clearance to get the AC Delco O2's started and I finally figured out that I just needed to move the exhaust slightly to get the O2 started in the thread. I just used a jack on the y-pipe while the car was up on ramps and shifted the exhaust slightly to get the sensor started. Once it was threaded all the way in, it didn't hit the engine mount.
Thanks, great suggestion!
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Old Jul 19, 2014 | 09:31 PM
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Originally Posted by 2000 TAWS6
Thanks, great suggestion!
I hope it works out for you! I had to also use several blocks of wood so the jack could reach the Y-pipe, but it did the trick nicely.

Keep us posted on if that works out for you!
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