balancer pulley install
balancer pulley install Hey guys,
is this normal? It seems like the top has more space in between the block than the bottom? I used the crank installer tool to install it, and i tried to remove it again with crank pulley removal tool but it's so damn tight that i couldn't even remove the pulley.
Any idears?
is this normal? It seems like the top has more space in between the block than the bottom? I used the crank installer tool to install it, and i tried to remove it again with crank pulley removal tool but it's so damn tight that i couldn't even remove the pulley.
Any idears?
That's what i found out. I think i fixed the issue. I use a extension and put it in between the seals and the pulley and gently tapped in. I still unable to take the pulley off though. I used the arp flywheel bolts and a pry bar to hold it in and when i crank it, the pulley turn but didn't wanna come lose. Any suggestions?I don't think my power tool has enough psi to get it off.
I had to use the blue wrench (mapp gas torch) on the hub. With puller and tension on it, use a mapp gas torch around the center section|hub for a minute or two. This should get it good and hot, but do NOT get it depths of hell red hot. Should slide right off after you warm it up.
I had to use the blue wrench (mapp gas torch) on the hub. With puller and tension on it, use a mapp gas torch around the center section|hub for a minute or two. This should get it good and hot, but do NOT get it depths of hell red hot. Should slide right off after you warm it up.
Don't it have a rubber thing inside the hub. I heard its a bad idea heating it up since that will melt the rubber. I might be wrong. But since you've done it, I might try it sir.
Thanks
I don't usually do it, never had to on my previous cars, but my 99 gave me hell during my last cam swap. Whose pulley is that? Looks like an older ASP or Powerbond. Do you still have the crank bolt in there, just turned out 3-4 turns? You just heat up the center|hub section, not the entire pulley and only for a minute or two tops, just get it a little heat in it.
I don't usually do it, never had to on my previous cars, but my 99 gave me hell during my last cam swap. Whose pulley is that? Looks like an older ASP or Powerbond. Do you still have the crank bolt in there, just turned out 3-4 turns? You just heat up the center|hub section, not the entire pulley and only for a minute or two tops, just get it a little heat in it.
It is a used asp pulley that I bought from someone on here. I'll try that method and see. So do you leave the bolt in when you heat it up or out?
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you are using the puller incorrectly...you will never get it off using it like you have pictured
the puller goes inside on the three small flat spots on the pulley
NOT on the outside of the pulley like you have it on that picture..
if you dont have flat sopts on the inside of your pulley
it takes a 3 bolt puller...
the puller goes inside on the three small flat spots on the pulley
NOT on the outside of the pulley like you have it on that picture..
if you dont have flat sopts on the inside of your pulley
it takes a 3 bolt puller...
By having such a small base sized puller the arms weren't parallel with the outer belt grooves from front to back. This probably multiplied the force necessary to remove the pulley by 10. The arms where they attach to the puller base should have been spaced as far apart as the pulley is in diameter for the pull to be a correct 1:1 ratio.
if they break, its because you didnt use a grade 8 bolt
we pull 4-5 balancers off per month and never have any issues....
the tool you show in the picture will never work the way you have it...just cant get enough torque to pull on the pulley, its all wasted going inwards from the extreme angle
you could try a Large 8" or 9" 3 jaw puller, it would give you the leverage you need
but the 3 bolt style works 100% of the time for us when it doesnt have the 3 tabs inside.
Use a dial indicator to measure the crank thrust clearance. If its out of spec then you will need a new thrust bearing at a minimum.
By having such a small base sized puller the arms weren't parallel with the outer belt grooves from front to back. This probably multiplied the force necessary to remove the pulley by 10. The arms where they attach to the puller base should have been spaced as far apart as the pulley is in diameter for the pull to be a correct 1:1 ratio.
By having such a small base sized puller the arms weren't parallel with the outer belt grooves from front to back. This probably multiplied the force necessary to remove the pulley by 10. The arms where they attach to the puller base should have been spaced as far apart as the pulley is in diameter for the pull to be a correct 1:1 ratio.
if the bolts bend, then you never had the tool mounted properly
if they break, its because you didnt use a grade 8 bolt
we pull 4-5 balancers off per month and never have any issues....
the tool you show in the picture will never work the way you have it...just cant get enough torque to pull on the pulley, its all wasted going inwards from the extreme angle
you could try a Large 8" or 9" 3 jaw puller, it would give you the leverage you need
but the 3 bolt style works 100% of the time for us when it doesnt have the 3 tabs inside.
if they break, its because you didnt use a grade 8 bolt
we pull 4-5 balancers off per month and never have any issues....
the tool you show in the picture will never work the way you have it...just cant get enough torque to pull on the pulley, its all wasted going inwards from the extreme angle
you could try a Large 8" or 9" 3 jaw puller, it would give you the leverage you need
but the 3 bolt style works 100% of the time for us when it doesnt have the 3 tabs inside.
Where do you get the tools from. The jaw puller is from advanced and the bolts puller is from autozone. I just used the bolts that were supplied by the kit. But it's out now. But I'll keep it in mind . I'm sure I have to remove the pulley in the future.
Thanks guys!