jlcustomz

While at Daytona turkey rod run, found some Kooks tri-y headers from the K&N nascar race series .Of course they are damaged, all that was left was right side units, & they won't fit a g-body as is. But I got the last 5 for pretty cheap. They originally went for $700 per side from Robert Yates racing. http://www.ryr.com/headers-kn-pro-series-right/

Was going to modify stainless f-body headers, but now I'll see if I can turn these 5 right side units & some more straight 1 3/4" pipe into 1 pair of g-body headers. I started by researching pics of other g & f-body headers & laying out on cardboard. I know it'll be a fit & refit type of pain, but I think it's possible. Just playing with layout a little for now till I have more time.

Most expensive part will be having them cleaned & recoated. I can resell the 3 leftover tri-y collector ends& recoup some money.

Anybody have any header rebuilding experience or advice other than don't try???

LS1MCSS

iTrader: (18)

I have gone the build/try/rebuild/try again route before. When it's all said and done you will wish you had just bought a set and installed them. Other than that,, no advise.

Fry_

I'd just rather just pay the $900-1300 for 1 7/8's Hooker headers motor and transmission mounts.

jlcustomz

One of my main draws to this is the tri-y collectors. When done right, you can make more power the whole lower rpm range up, though not more top end than a really good 4 way collector. They can also package better out back than 4 long tubes in 1 spot & weigh a little less. Many of the affordable premade headers aren't even close to being optimum for power production, another small plus in making your own. If I'm going to go through all the trouble, may as well be the most powerful headers I can do.

Keep in mind my 12 year old LS1 swap is not a kit, so production headers may need a little something anyways.

Also picked up a Pypes brand X-pipe kit & 3" stainless race pro muflers last weekend for a lot less than full price. Shop that did most of my exhaust 12 years ago was insistant on 2 1/4" pipes. Time to do that myself also.
I have a basic plan of attack layed out on paper & cardboard. My biggest problem is lack of needed time, not skill. Don't forget I'm also the idiot occasionally working on this intake project.

jlcustomz

Part of my reason for chopping up & redoing headers is to get what I want in fit & performance. But in checking a local powdercoating shop, he quoted around $350 to $400 to blast & recoat them . I imagine that could be average for tri-y's. But at that price after all the work I'd need to do, wondering if I should just get the TSP 1 3/4" f-body stainless headers ($379), which would fit fairly close & add on my tri-y collectors. The TSP appear to be a knockoff of the kooks shape & pipe routing, which is close to what I need.

Hamrdown

iTrader: (25)

I've actually got a good set of headers that may just work for you! I was planning on posting them in the for sale section but have just been lazy. They are the LS F-Body Edelbrock ti-tec coated stepped headers with flowmaster tri-y merge collectors. The headers are still currently on the car (never ran). I was just in a hurry and ordered up the TSP headers & x-pipe so I wouldn't have to fab up the rest of my exhaust. I'll try to get you some pics tonight when I get home.

jlcustomz

Got the pass side tacked together, ready for test fit. All near 32.5" primary length. Will do proper welds & change a few things when I know it fits. UGLY mig tack welds for now as some sections will have to come back apart for tig welding. That's if they fit. Have some room built in for minor adjusting if needed. Also had a conversation with a local company called River City Powdercoating, which is car powder coating oriented & sounds reputable on header coating. Approx $150 per side.

KCS

iTrader: (20)

What engine are those headers meant for?

Tri-Y headers are typically paired for a certain firing order. If the engine they were designed for does not have the same firing order as the engine you're putting them on, it's kind of pointless.

jlcustomz

Agreed .LS1 needs them paired 2/4, 6/8, 1/5 3/7
The edelbrock headers hamrdown listed as having with flowmaster collectors does not have correct outlets for proper tri-y use.
The one bit of info I need is on tuning secondary pipe lengths. I've noticed many custom made tri-y's have another 8" or more secondary pipe length added.
Considering paying someone like Burns Stainless for the info if I can't find out from someone first.

EDIT to old thread :::: drivers side pairing is 1&5 then 3&7, as is om pfadts. Above was typo.

dr_whigham

iTrader: (49)

That's exactly how my Pfadts are. 1 7/8" stepped to 2 1/8" then to the 3" merge.

jlcustomz

Got my drivers side set mostly laid out now.

Been struggling to find out more info on tuning tri-y's. I was going 32.5" primary length equals with 1 3/4" pipe with 2 1/4" secondaries to 3 1/2" outlet.

I finally got around to calling Burns Stainless ,as recommended by John Bzdel. They specked 1 5/8" primaries @27" with 1 7/8" secondaries @13" with a 2 1/2" outlet. PRETTY DIFFERENT HUH.

They also said , since I got my 1 3/4" pipe laid out, 1 3/4" x36" length with a 4-1 merge collector was also optimum.

So I may have to give up on the tri-y idea for now. Burns Stainless wants $291 each for their optimum designed merge collectors, so I may see if I can cut up these nice tri-y ends into a bad *** merge collector. What the hell.

jlcustomz

So not being happy with the thought of not using my tri-y ends, I decided to call Kooks, which made them. Explained my setup to tech & other specs I was told. They told me I may have a small low rpm loss over optimum, but no reason not to use their version of tri-y ends with my setup. When I asked if I'd be better off with a 4-1 merge collector, they said not really. Said just to reduce the 3.5 outlet to 3" & go with it.

Damn but this stuff is confusing. I noticed the Kooks merges from 1 3/4" to 2 1/4 secondaries, where other manufacturers make a smaller jump in size. Maybe this has something to do with it.

jlcustomz

Got pass side tack welded together for fitting. Did large tack welds with little penetration over joints to make it easier to cut apart of needed. Now I just need time for on vehicle test fit.

carbuff

iTrader: (8)

Any chance that you have, or could, take pictures of the inside of each of the merges? I'm curious what Kooks did inside of the tri-y merges...

Thanx!

jlcustomz

No pics of inside of collectors right now, but each of the 3 two into ones taper off to a sharp point like the cutaway pic of the Burns stainless 4 into 1 in the links here.http://www.burnsstainless.com/mergecollectorsmain.aspx
http://www.burnsstainless.com/x-design.aspx

Pretty much as good as it gets. These are only sold through Robert Yates racing, but can sometimes be found in damaged used condition, as I did.
I may not use 2 others collector ends I have.

carbuff

iTrader: (8)

If you end up not using the collectors, drop me a message. I don't need them, but might consider building a set for my application at some point also. I have tri-y's now, but I'm not very impressed with them. They could definitely be better!

Good luck with the project!

WE TODD DID

iTrader: (2)

Are you gonna smooth the welds when you're finished?

jlcustomz

Knew someone would rightfully ask that. I stated that I did large mig tack welds with little penetration for the purpose of being able to cut apart if needed, since I did all this without an actual on vehicle test fit. Will either tig or gas weld after flattening them out. Also some tubes need to come back apart for welding. I'm not going for grinding them perfectly flat partly since you don't shoot for 100% penetration on pipe welds to avoid restricting & roughing up the inside of the tubes.

I'm thinking of making polished stainless spears (Pontiac emblem shape) on top of the tubes right after the flanges. Just to have something different .Should stand out nicely against the ceramic coating & hopefully be easier to stay polished than all stainless headers.

May be several weeks before I can get back to this project.