I am changing out the spark plugs and when I was pulling the on plug wire I pulled everything out except the boot that conncets to the spark plug. I have pushed the wire back in to the boot but is this wire screwed. Please help quick.

 

NEW WIRES! Go for it all or go home. thats my suggestion...

 

new wires for sure man....thats like tryin to run a blowdryer in the shower...just isn't a good idea.....

 

went and got what I could for new wires. Auto lite professional. I will never change my splugs again myself. the back two on the passenger side are impossible. The new wires are only 7mm but it is running.

 

get LT's, !air/egr and plugs are a piece of cake

 

that is why i always reccomend having either a spare set of stockers, a friend with some spare stockers, or some new wires when doing higher milage plug changes

Ryan.

 

hey pushing freight I have alot of extra wires if you need 1, I know you are in lakeland so let me know.

 

Thanks, I went out and bought some at auto part store and replaced the one that I destroyed. I just cannot see how anyone gets the the back two on the passenger side. I bought some auto lite pro series, 7mm. That is all they had in stock. If you know how to get to those other plugs please let me know.

 

With only 6" of wire, there cant be that much difference in resistance or performance gained by going to 8mm or 8.5mm wires. IMO you only need those kind of wires in really high HP applications with very cold plugs.

 

pushinfreight if you take off the coil pack bracket you can get to the #6, #8 plugs. Of course you have to have the air tubes off also, my air tubes were in the trash when I first got my car. If you have longtube headers on some brands you can reach between the fender and the header to get the #8 from under the car. In that case you can get #6 without removing the coil pack bracket. It takes me 10 min to change the other 6 plugs and 15 - 25 min to change #6 +#8 they suck. Also order a set of GM Perfomance wires there as good as any and click when they go on so you know there on. Scoggin- Dickey sells them cheap, there a sponsor ------->>>

 

I dont mean to get off topic, but i bought some new NGKs for all my vehicles and was going to change them and the oil one afternoon. Well my truck took maybe 10 minutes. Then i moved onto the Blazer, which took almost 4 hours! The damn #2 plug is right behind the steering shaft. I had to move alot of stuff to get that one done. Then i poped the hood on my car and tried to even see the #6 and #8. After the frustration on the Blazer i said F that. I still have the stock plugs in there with 70k miles on them. I guess i should get them changed so i stop throwing miss fire codes every now and then. lol.

 

Snake Eater as long as you get the coilpack bracet and air tubes out of the way you can get #6, #8. You need a long swivel head rachet, spark plug socket, stubby extension and the bolts for the coilpack and air tubs are 10mm. You need a racheting 10mm wrench to get the back bolt on the coilpack, you cant see it just feel at the back of the bracket under the firewall and dont put that bolt back in when your done. The plugs are hard to reach you cant see them either I allways put the socket w/ stubby extension on the plug first then put the rachet on the soc/ext.

 

the back plugs i usually put in from the bottom of the car. If you have headers this is the way to go. Otherwise you'll have to take off everything like these guys have stated.

 

Like Caveman said, if you remove or at least move the coil pack rail out of the way, the job suddenly gets a whole lot easier. I totally removed the passenger side coil pack rail when I did mine a few months back, and my forearms thanked me for it. A set or gear wrenches makes removing the coil pack rail muich eaiser too.


-Mike