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Dorman ls2 intake?

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Old Mar 30, 2018 | 02:45 PM
  #401  
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Default MAP sensor and barb fitting

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Old Mar 30, 2018 | 02:54 PM
  #402  
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Originally Posted by Raygunz


I see we have done some porting to that DLS2 , looks good . So no other mods just intake and 92 mm tb since your last dyno ?
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Old Mar 30, 2018 | 07:49 PM
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No other mods. So hopefully this dyno will give us a pretty good idea of how much a ported Dorman LS2 actually helps hp when coming from an LS1. The only upgrade is the port and internal post removal. Also the 92 mm throttle body of course.
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Old Mar 30, 2018 | 08:37 PM
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Originally Posted by omc8
I see we have done some porting to that DLS2 , looks good . So no other mods just intake and 92 mm tb since your last dyno ?
I also plugged the holes where the posts were with a small bolt and a nut that looked like a rivet. Put a little thread locker on it and some RTV adhesive gasket maker.
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Old Mar 31, 2018 | 09:45 AM
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Originally Posted by Raygunz
No other mods. So hopefully this dyno will give us a pretty good idea of how much a ported Dorman LS2 actually helps hp when coming from an LS1. The only upgrade is the port and internal post removal. Also the 92 mm throttle body of course.
Good this should make for a good comparison. I'm interested to see how well that G plus 92mm tb is going to work for you too. What size maf are you going, Id go to 85 if you re not there yet.
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Old Mar 31, 2018 | 10:34 AM
  #406  
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85mm truck maf is a must and cheap. You’ll be amazed how much larger internally it actually is compared to an ls1 maf
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Old Apr 1, 2018 | 08:56 PM
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Finished up the LS2 Dorman intake today. I also installed an oil catch can and some stainless steel braded steam lines. I used the cheap hose the catch can came with for now but will be puttig in some braded ss hoses just to look a little nicer. The install is not difficult just very tedious because everything is so hard to get to and of course the catch can and steam port hoses just added a little more time to the project. Will schedule a tune on a dyno this week to see just how well the HP gain is.
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Old Apr 2, 2018 | 09:23 AM
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Originally Posted by Raygunz
Finished up the LS2 Dorman intake today. I also installed an oil catch can and some stainless steel braded steam lines. I used the cheap hose the catch can came with for now but will be puttig in some braded ss hoses just to look a little nicer. The install is not difficult just very tedious because everything is so hard to get to and of course the catch can and steam port hoses just added a little more time to the project. Will schedule a tune on a dyno this week to see just how well the HP gain is.
Looking good how is that throttle body working , do you see any problem with it ? Are you having the car tuned at the Dyno shop ?
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Old Apr 2, 2018 | 09:43 AM
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I took car for a drive and seems to be running ok. Sounds louder and almost sounds like its cammed. It was already pretty loud with the Speed Engineering headers and true dual exhaust. I didn't get on it hard, waiting till after I take it to shop for tune on a dyno. Taking it to Performance Unlimited here in Corpus Christi, Tx. They tuned it last time when I put the headers and true duals. I believe I hit 342 hp. I will pull up the old graph toake sure.
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Old Apr 2, 2018 | 09:52 AM
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I had to grind a little on the water pump and under the throttle body. Other than that I just put a little blue thread locker on the blade screws and the bolt on side shaft where cable mounts. I had to grind a little on the opening for the IAC sensor. Other than that just mounted them and adjusted the blade adjustment screw for idle a little bit. Seems to be running ok. Will see what shop tells me when they hook it to computer. I bought the throttle body on Ebay for about $75, looks almost Identical to a WAR throtle body. I could be wrong because I don't have one to compare it to personally.
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Old Apr 2, 2018 | 10:19 AM
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I tried to use the EGR plug from my ls1 but it leaked even with a bigger O ring.
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Old Apr 3, 2018 | 01:01 AM
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Our billet egr plug is the only one that works as far as i know. Quite a few have been tried.
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Old Apr 3, 2018 | 09:50 AM
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So as far as fuel rails go, I know it's been said that the factory ls1 and ls6 fuel rails work, but I'm putting this intake on a 5.3 swap and was wondering if aftermarket jegs or summit ls1/ls6 fuel rails will work or the ones the WS6 store sells and will the brackets work?

Last edited by Formula81; Apr 3, 2018 at 03:30 PM.
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Old Apr 3, 2018 | 06:20 PM
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Originally Posted by Raygunz
I had to grind a little on the water pump and under the throttle body. Other than that I just put a little blue thread locker on the blade screws and the bolt on side shaft where cable mounts. I had to grind a little on the opening for the IAC sensor. Other than that just mounted them and adjusted the blade adjustment screw for idle a little bit. Seems to be running ok. Will see what shop tells me when they hook it to computer. I bought the throttle body on Ebay for about $75, looks almost Identical to a WAR throtle body. I could be wrong because I don't have one to compare it to personally.
Thanks for adding the tb info . So you verify that you have full blade opening at wot.How does gas pedal feel , is the cam spring stiffness smiliar to stock . How did you elarge the iac opening ?
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Old Apr 3, 2018 | 06:33 PM
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And ls1 style rail will work. Holley sniper etc.
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Old Apr 3, 2018 | 09:22 PM
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Originally Posted by tech@WS6store
And ls1 style rail will work. Holley sniper etc.
Alright, thanks
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Old Apr 3, 2018 | 10:16 PM
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Car is running and idling good but I don't think its reading WOT. I been driving my truck mostly until I get tune. I did realize that it used to shift hard and now is shifting way too smooth, not as agressive as it used too. On the highway if i punch it it does not down shift and pick up like it used too. I reset the IAC and TPC sensor today but didn't get to drive it. Hopefully that fixed it if not the tuner can fix it. As for making the IAC fit I just grinded the whole inner edge at an angle with my drill and a bit to allow it to fit. It went in and still sealed with the O ring it had.
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Old Apr 5, 2018 | 08:23 PM
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Ok so I did have to adjust the tps to get it at .5 and at WOT it is reading just under 4.4. Going to have to grind bump stop just a bit to get it to read 4.6 to 4.7. As far as the throttle stiffness, it is a little stiffer but not much and not enough to for me to want to mess with the springs or coils on the side of theottle body. I think after some normal use they should get a little worn in on their own. It looks like I will be taking it in for a tune and dyno on Tuesday. Will let yall know what I gained. After this I think Im saving up for heads and cam. Not really trying to make it a beast because even though I have an Avalanche I drive my TA 80% of the time.
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Old Apr 6, 2018 | 09:49 AM
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Originally Posted by Raygunz
Ok so I did have to adjust the tps to get it at .5 and at WOT it is reading just under 4.4. Going to have to grind bump stop just a bit to get it to read 4.6 to 4.7. As far as the throttle stiffness, it is a little stiffer but not much and not enough to for me to want to mess with the springs or coils on the side of theottle body. I think after some normal use they should get a little worn in on their own. It looks like I will be taking it in for a tune and dyno on Tuesday. Will let yall know what I gained. After this I think Im saving up for heads and cam. Not really trying to make it a beast because even though I have an Avalanche I drive my TA 80% of the time.
Thanks for the details of this review keep us posted on progress of the tweaks you continue to make. My guess is that you will make 15 hp gain , hope you see more .Are still running stock injectors, maf and lid ?
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Old Apr 6, 2018 | 01:31 PM
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Yes, still running stock injectors and MAF but have a high flow lid. MAF is descreened and ported a little.
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