Besides the block off for the EGR, what other items do I need before installing my lightly ported DLS2 Intake & WARR 92mm TB ?
Left the ports with some ridges, figured they might actually provide a bit of "swirl" in the ports for low end gain, and used 600 grit to really smooth all blended areas. Smooth flow from inside Intake going into the heads.
Can always go back and clean up (flush the walls/seams) ports later - if I port the heads sometime in the future.

Looking forward to the results of the Dyno time like everyone else...

 

The barb fitting in the back.

 

 

I dont think swirl applies to a dry manifold.
Also youll need the ls6 xover kit with plugs in the back if you do not already have them.
Thats all.
You may need to clearance where the throttle cam is also on WOT.

 

well I went to my tuners shop today and got the TA tuned. The shop is too backed up with work and couldn't get my car on the dyno. He did take time out to put a tune on it since I didn't feel comfortable diving it around after putting the new intake on with no tune. He said hopefully next week when they clear out some of the cars they are working on we can get it on the dyno and see how much hp gain I got. It is running strong though. Again, sorry for not getting the dyno numbers yet but I will post as soon as we get it done.

 

Can you pls send me a PM with the pieces/prices available to swap the DLS2 onto my 98 LS1.
Thanks! Mike

 

My mechanic installed the Dorman LS2 on my TA. A couple things he did was to put steel inserts on the larger rear mounting hole and larger front mounting hole. He also tapped the holes for mounting the fuel rail to accept M6 bolts. Dorman includes self tapping bolts for the fuel rail but that doesn't seem like the best solution if you ever remove the fuel rail. He also doubled up the washers on the intake mounting bolts to keep the plastic from deforming when torqued down.

 

Did you ever get any dyno numbers?

 

Sorry but no. I have not had the chance to get it on the dyno. Had too many things like getting my roof done and a few others come up. I wish the tuner would have done it the first time I took it to him but they were backed up with work. I will see if I can get it done here real soon. I am also wanting to know the numbers and I also think it needs a better tune. It is running good but I think there is more power on the table not being squeezed out of it yet.

 

I can't seem to find this kit on the website? I def wanted to buy this kit.

 

... If anyone is interested, have the TB & Intake for sale in the Parts for Sale section.
Mike

 

Anyone running on boost reliably? Dls2

 

 

They can and will blow apart.

 

 

99 Black Bird T/A suggested I post my findings in here as well. This is a copy/paste from this thread:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...t-more-38.html

I couldn't justify the price of a FAST 102 so I tried the Dorman LS2 intake at half the price knowing it will need some massaging as it's not perfect. Shown below is the process I went through to "port" it which was spent reshaping the runners. I did not touch the actual port size since my heads were stock, the ports match the heads already.

The car:
03 Z06 60k mi
BTR Stage 2 cam
Stock LS3 air bridge + card MAF on SD tune
Mamo ported LS2 TB
Dorman LS2 intake
TPS 1 7/8" headers, catted X pipe and Corsa Sport CB


Cliff notes on porting a DLS2 to a stock 243 heads:
1) DLS2 port width at the head matches that of the stock heads = not worth widening to the reported 1.1"
I had access to PORTED 243's with a port matched FAST 102 to those exact heads which DID show 1.1" head/intake port width AND that the intake porting was "angled".
2) The runner thickness at the area that needs the most removed is ~5mm. (drilled a hole and verified thickness at each runner).
3) The runners of the DLS2 and Fast102 look very similar in design/shape but the FAST has a substantial larger plenum volume (obviously hence the increased height which may allow slightly longer runners)
4) It seems like one engineer designed the upper runner half and someone else designed the lower flange half then glued them together...fairly poor transition between the two halves.
5) All said and done there was more material on the floor than I ever thought.

Ported FAST102 lower section on stock 243 heads (I borrowed this FAST to take some porting pointers)

Drilled a hole in all runners where most material will be removed to check wall thickness

The hole ends up directly in the corner of the runner

Put drill bit back in and verified wall thickness

Final product. Removing this much material you need to be careful. The wall can get paper thin to where light will shine through the plastic. I worked my way "UP" the runner focusing on blending the large runner radius to the smaller port radius. If you wanted to go nuts and make it perfect you could also fill in some low areas but what I did was 90% there that I didn't feel the need to spend a lot more time on this. I did NOT touch the original port opening here as I felt it lined up well on stock heads. More porting may be needed once heads get ported.

Here you can see I got too carried away on this one as it was my first one...lesson learned. This shows aluminum foil tape inside the runner as a backer to keep JB weld from dropping through. I also sanded then "hatched" around all holes to let JB weld bite. Once JB weld was solid enough but still pliable, I removed the tape and smeared more JB weld over the small holes and let it fully cure.

Not pretty but functional. I'll address aesthetics later.


Results below are the following (bold are the incremental changes) pulls done starting 2000rpm in 4th:
Blue = Halltech "Stinger" CAI (filter placed behind filler plate), stock C5Z MAF, Mamo Ported LS2 TB, untouched Dorman LS2 intake 381/334
Green = Stock LS3 air bridge + stock card MAF + SD tune, Mamo Ported LS2 TB, untouched Dorman LS2 intake 385/338
Red = Stock LS3 air bridge + stock card MAF + SD tune, Mamo Ported LS2 TB, ported Dorman LS2 intake 393/344

*Blue and Green pulls done on same day and same dyno back to back swapping CAI (Nov last year). Red pull was done on the same dyno this past Saturday.

I liked that the TQ curve is not just a peak gain but a gain across the whole pull. HP starts to gain around 4200rpm.


Resulting A/F graph. Since this graph we added some fuel up top to make it safer with no loss in power (dyno above are after fuel adjustments)

Porting the Dorman was worth 11hp/6tq. Just reporting my findings. I'd be curious to bolt a FAST102 on and see if there is much more to be gained. At the time FAST102 was and still is ~$900+. The DLS2 was $410 shipped. I believe I make at least 80% of what the FAST would give me with my combo. So I don't see a huge benefit to seek a FAST102 given the cost and I don't have any fitment issues or the need to shim the cradle/lower motor mounts.

 

another thing to note is the DLS2 will work with the ls1 fuel rail and the fast 102 won’t. The cost of the fast 102 is just a piece of the swap. It is still a better intake though but a ported DLS2 is pretty good for a can only car