CGSmith0524

Let me start off by saying- For anyone that has done this using simply a Jack and Jack Stands, I raise my glass and cheers you! I could not imagine doing this task without a lift. Not saying it can’t be done, because SO Many of y’all have sucked it up, but man, this upgrade is by far one of the biggest pain in the ***’s you can do to a 4th Gen Camaro.

With that being said, I’ve installed many sets of Headers, all of which were on 1st Gen Camaro’s. This is the first time I’ve ever attempted or tried to install a set on a 4th Gen Camaro. So, for that reason alone, I read as much information as I could, as many reviews as I could, and compared all the brands that I could research. Budget is always a factor and I honestly would not have gone with Kooks, except I got a really good deal on them. It was too good to pass up, so I Thank Maryland Speed for hooking me up and working with me!!

I will admit that I was a little disappointed in the “raw” finish of the stainless steel header. I realize that it wasn’t ceramic coated, but after talking to Kooks on the phone, the way they described it, the header would be slightly polished. I’ve put Hooker Super Comp LT’s on all my 1st Gen Camaro’s, and out of the box, I was more impressed with the Hookers than Kooks. In all honesty, the overall finish looked very similar to the Catted Y-Pipe. I used the bolts and the multi-layer gasket that was supplied with the Kooks Headers.

Installation was very straight forward- IMO. Like most everyone else, the Passenger Side went in relatively easy, but the Drivers Side was a Royal Pain! Removing the old exhaust was fairly simple and quick, as I had it all removed a few months ago when I installed my Monster Level 2 Clutch. Here’s how my Installation went.

Passenger Side- I only had to remove the Plugs and Plug Wires. The directions told me to remove the Coil Packs, but I was able to get my hands in there without removing any packs. I also read where a lot of people removed their coils. I feel fortunate that I did not have to mess with any of that stuff.

Drivers Side - This was a bit more challenging and tested your patience. I had to remove all Plugs and Plug Wires, and I removed my Oil Filter. I also had to remove the 4 Bolts that hold the Engine Mount Frame and raise the Engine about an inch or so. Once the engine was raised, the header slid right in.

Y-Pipe- This was the easiest part and I’ve read horror stories about how some Y-Pipes don’t fit, or they hit, or they won’t line up. I left the headers completely loose until I had the left and right catted pipes installed. Once they were installed, I installed the Y-Merger. I was honestly shocked on how easy it all slid together. Once I felt it was all aligned properly, I lowered the car so I could install the gaskets and drive on.

Some of you may be asking, how was I able to keep the headers hanging there, if the bolts and gaskets weren’t installed? Well, since I was doing this job solo, I simply installed the back bolt on both headers, but only threaded them in with my fingers. Once I lowered the car, I installed the gasket and the front bolt only, again, with my finger. Once I knew the front bolts were in a few threads, I raised the car back up, removed the back bolt, and the fully aligned the gasket and reinstalled the back bolt. I did not tighten the back bolt just yet though…. I lowered the car back down, then installed the rest of the bolts, reassuring that the gasket had not moved and was still aligned. Once all the other bolts were tight, I raised the car back up so I could tighten the back bolts. Once I knew the headers had no clearance issues, everything was nice and tight, I then proceeded to align all three pieces for the Y-Pipe. Once it was to my liking, I torqued the clamps down to 25 FT LBS of Tq. Lastly, I reinstalled the 4-Bolts after lowering the engine and reinstalled my oil filter.

After that was completed, it was time to run the new extensions for the O2 Sensors and Reinstall them. I had to replace one sensor, because the threads were completely gone when I tried to remove it. Once I had them routed and hid, I reinstalled the center link to my Chassis-Max Sub-Frame Connectors. Then it was back on the ground again. The last things that needed buttoned up was installing the plugs and wires. And of course the car had to go back up in the air one last time for the back plug on the Passenger Side.

All told, I lost count of how many times I raised and lowered my car. Hints why I said, I can’t believe this upgrade is done with a Jack and Jack Stands. Granted, I was a one-man show, so have an extra pair of hands would have helped tremendously. But, I seriously doubt I would have tried this without a lift. I also had air tools, which helped quite a bit too!!

In the end, the car sounds amazing!! I was honestly shocked by the change of tone and how much deeper and loud the car is. I kept my factory SLP 345HP CME, so everything from back of the Y-Pipe is Original to the car. I’m also glad that the “rasp” is completely gone. There is not more popping when I shift if the engine is cold. It truly is night and day difference. Is it louder? Yes, much louder, but it hasn’t bothered me……. Yet!

My review- The headers fit perfect. I opted to NOT Change out my Engine Mounts because my car only has 35,000 Original Miles, and it’s not a dedicated race car. I have brand new Poly Mounts for it, but I was on a time crunch, since I was borrowing a lift when the shop was closed over the weekend. Even with my factory original mounts, nothing hits my floor board. I have clearance between the steering knuckle shaft and the header itself. I didn’t even have to mess with the steering knuckle. I have clearance by the starter as well. So, I can only imagine the clearance gets better, had I installed my Poly Mounts. The sound is amazing and awesome!! Again, I was blown away by the difference. Can I tell a difference in how the car runs? Honestly, I’ve babied it because I’d like to get it tuned first. So I honestly can’t answer that. My only complaint is- For the amount of money that Kooks cost, I expected the overall finish to be more “show” quality, if that makes sense…..

Enjoy the pictures and I appreciate all the positive and negative constructive criticism.

CGSmith0524

These next few pictures show how much clearance I have, and the finished product, once I done!!

All told, I probably had 8 full hours in this job. The only thing I wish I would have done was- have the headers coated & polished prior to installation. However, if I ever do a H/C install, I'll simply do that when I drop the front K-Member. That'll be the same time I do the engine mounts as well!!

2002 SS #476

iTrader: (2)

I was having the same problem when I was doing the driver side install. I was looking all over trying to see where it was hitting but couldn't see what it was hitting. I started worrying about having to lower the k-member as I was also tight on time and using a lift. However, I knew I shouldn't have to based on what I read on this forum about KOOK's. Then I remembered the tip I read on here of removing the oil drain bolt. After that the header slid right in. Late for this tip but may help someone else out.

ramairetransam

iTrader: (18)

nice work , that car is clean as hell .

Jay-P

iTrader: (16)

Your under carriage looks nicer then some peoples top side. :o

CGSmith0524

Man, that's some good advice! I looked at that drain plug several times, but honestly didn't know if it would help. Looking back at it now, I should have tried that.... Ha Ha.

Lesson learned and like you said- Maybe that tip will help someone else!

CGSmith0524

Thank you!! I try to do everything thing myself, and I'm extremely meticulous when it comes to how my car looks and runs. I probably spend just as much time cleaning the underside, as I do the top side!! Ha Ha.

Thank You!! You know, the only advantage of having such a clean underside is- I don't get all dirty and greasy when I work on it. And once you have it clean, it's relatively easy to maintain. It also helps that I keep it stored quite a bit and I only drive it when it's beautiful outside..... LOL

OffspringZ28

iTrader: (8)

When you say "factory 345HP CME" do you mean you kept the OEM Dual/Dual exhaust? I just glanced at the pics and it looks like you have a loudmouth on there. If I'm mistaken please try and get up some sound clips! I have an SLP loudmouth that I am ditching and installing the factory Dual/Dual to tone it down a bit when I go to 1 7/8" headers.

CGSmith0524

I kept the Factory/SLP CME Loudmouth that came on the car.... To my knowledge, the Center Mount Exhaust (CME) was never referred to, nor optioned as the Dual-Dual Exhaust. Both options were rated at 345HP from SLP.

As for a sound clip, I haven't posted on yet. If Mother Nature cooperates with us, I'll try and get a clip up this week.

dkota1968

iTrader: (1)

I believe they are both the same muffler. I also have the cme and it sounds great with lts and ory. Just enough loud in my opinion. I heard they rob a lot of hp though compared to the straight through mufflers. Its gonna choke the hell out of my 383 so im just putting in a e cut out after the y.

CGSmith0524

I wasn't sure if they were the same exact or not..... But I did see on the original SLP Brochure where they are both rated at 345HP. In fact, I couldn't even tell you if they sound the same. I've always been a fan and Loved the CME, so I've never really paid attention to the other exhaust options that SLP offered.

Thank you for educating me.....

OffspringZ28

iTrader: (8)

The "345hp" exhaust package was the dual/dual. The loudmouth was not a factory option from SLP. You can call SLP with your vin # and they can tell you what options were ordered when the car was purchased. They even sent me a "birth certificate" and a build sheet. Very cool stuff. That's how I found out my car was originally optioned with the Dual/Dual so I went out and bought one since the original owner replaced it with the loudmouth. Def get a sound clip though. I may keep the loudmouth if it sounds killer

If you have the CME good chance your exhaust is the dual/dual. It isnt made anymore and it is one of the freest flowing catbacks you can have. They're hard to find now.

CGSmith0524

Thanks for the info Offspring!! There's no need for me to call SLP, I have all my original documentation, to include the SLP Window Sticker, my Original Birth Certificate, and the SLP Sticker on the Passenger Side Door. The Brochure for SLP is a bit vague when describing the two systems.... Here's what it says on the Brochure for the 2002 SS:

"For a ten horsepower, lower cost upgrade, you can the Dual-Dual Outlet Tip configuration of SLP's Performance Exhaust, or the Center-Mounted Exhaust with wraparound rear fascia extensions".

It doesn't mention what mufflers the two systems use or if there are any differences.... However, I can tell you that I do not have a muffler at all, just a bullet style glass pack that is before the rear axle. I have nothing after the rear axle. I just assumed it was a Loud Mouth System because there was no muffler at all..... LOL

CASHss99

iTrader: (2)

CME only means CENTER MOUNT exhaust, who ever had it before you put the loudmouth on which removes the rear muffler and puts a resonator in the i pipe... I loved the loudmouth on stock applications, but once you hit that internal engine, prepare for the hackers cough when you rev. "rasp"

that 345 package muffler that should be on the car, i think sounds the best.
I have the same package and about to install my Kooks 1 7/8 Kooks ORY into my Slp muffler CME

DarrenWS6

iTrader: (1)

Nice job, 8hrs is good timing. I can't wait to get my system in!

dabest09

iTrader: (1)

Your car is immaculate, hats off to you sir. I'm assuming you've been the only owner? It's nearly impossible to keep surface rust off of the rear axle though!

Spade

iTrader: (26)

Just like others have pointed out, that is a very clean underside. Do you even drive the car!?

lynx853

iTrader: (8)

Nice job - especially by yourself

CGSmith0524

Thank you!! It helped to have a lift, just wish I had to time to install the motor mounts at the same time.... Did you get your system in?!

Thank You!! I spend a great deal of time keeping it clean, polishing and cleaning the underside as much as I do the topside.... My wife says that I have a problem and that I'm OCD..... Ha Ha!!

I am actually the second owner- I picked it up March of 2011 from the Original Owner and it had 12,000 miles on the Odometer. He had quite the collection and was getting rid of some of his collection.

If you or anyone can figure out how to keep rust off our rear axles, I'd like to know......

I drive my SS every weekend, if the weather is nice. In fact, she just rolled 38,000 miles on her a few weeks ago. Thank you for the compliment!!

Thank You!! I'm usually a one man team..

Chris Paveglio

iTrader: (2)

Thanks for a good write up! I just ordered Kooks and am going to do this install next month. I have a QuickJack lift so I get about 20", I hope it's enough room to work. That was a big step up from my 2 jacks and stands at my last house.