87dimeblazer

iTrader: (1)

I had a nice set of ceramic coated shorty headers and unfortunately did some dyno pulls with them. The coating is still intact(no peeling/flaking) but they did get real dull.
1st question- Since the color dulled, does that mean that the thermal properties of the coating is no longer working or is it just a cosmetic issue.
2nd question- If the thermal protection has been compromised, would it hurt anything to wrap the headers until i can get them recoated? I have read many threads of the wrapping expediting the onset of rust/corrosion.

Any input or experiences are greatly appreciated.

G_rog

Here is a good read. Slightly bias from the get go but here it is: http://www.centuryperformance.com/ex...o-not-use.html

87dimeblazer

iTrader: (1)

That is exactly what i am worried about. My headers are not ruined, but at the moment i am getting ready to move and don't have the time to get them recoated. So I'm in the unique position of wrap the header and chance damage, or don't wrap and risk radiant heat damage to other engine bay components.

G_rog

What other engine bay components are you worried about? Are you running a turbo? If not, you could wrap whatever you are worried about (cables, lines, etc.) with a thermal insulator if they are close to touching. There's a lot of people running without ceramic coated headers out there.just my $0.02 bud

87dimeblazer

iTrader: (1)

Not running a turbo. The two main items i am concerned with is the overall engine bay temps while in traffic/at red lights in town and the IAT temps. I know when I was in the dyno the IAT was very high and I think that has to do with the way the intake is positioned in the direct line of the radiant heat despite the hood being up and before the ceramic coating was "compromised". As many know swapping a V8 into the bay of a V4/6 is bound to have issues. LOL! I usually cruise at 180-195* but when I stop at a red light it climbs pretty fast up to 220-230*. I have 1-16in fan and 2-8in fans pulling air through.

On the other hand I could just run red lights and never stop for traffic!!!

N20zuki

My .02 is if its a daily driver, the headers will eventually rust out. The header wrap holds moisture and will rot them out. But with that said, I have my headers wrapped... My car is only driven on nice days and not in the rain.

And lastly, header wrap on ceramic isn't a good idea. It will accelerate the ceramic breaking down and flake off under the wrap.

omarrakeen

iTrader: (2)

dont. i dont think headers will increase the temps all that much. i live in Dubai and its CRAZY hot here and ive never hard a problem. mine are stainless and they look like poop. as mentioned above wrapping them WILL make the rusting/breakdown worse.

jimmyblue

iTrader: (11)

Run the fans low speed full time and you can forget the
radiant heat; convection is way more effective in heating
up the engine bay (without airflow) or cooling it (with).

This will also help your IAT, at least when running. Not
as much as relocating it, but some.

87dimeblazer

iTrader: (1)

I am convinced not to wrap the headers now. I have all three of my fans running off my ignition so they run from the time I turn the key on until I shut it off. I am able to toggle the fans on and off but with the temps down here running 100-105* during the day I just a leave them on all the time. Has anyone ever used some small fans near the firewall to push the heat out?

omarrakeen

iTrader: (2)

thats an over kill imo. summer hits 113+ over here never had an issue. why would you need a fan near the firewall?

87dimeblazer

iTrader: (1)

Because when I cruise even at 20mph I run cool as soon as I stop my temps jump up pretty high. If I can get enough airflow through the engine bay or minimize the heat sources I will not be running so hot. It would t be so bad if I were just cruising down the highway, but when I drive in traffic through 10-15 red lights it does become an issue. I am just trying to protect the money I have invested in the build.

It may be over kill but many say that swapping a 460hp LS1 into an S10 is overkill as well. Par for course as they always say.

Darth_V8r

iTrader: (4)

How do you do this? Can you set it in the tune or do you have to rewire the fans?

87dimeblazer

iTrader: (1)

If you are running your fan relay signal from the ECM then you would control it in the tune. There is a place for adjustment of fan speed and temp for turn on.

redbird555

iTrader: (14)

Ya just do it in the tune. It has a low speed and Hugh speed setting. Just set the low speed to like 100 degrees and they'll be on pretty much at all times.

I have mine set at 150

Darth_V8r

iTrader: (4)

Thanks! I thought those were just the on/off temperatures. Didn't realize they were speed stepped.

ranmas2004

iTrader: (1)

I can tell you from personal experience I have had 2 of my cars ceramic coated and it does ABSOLUTELY NOTHING for engine bay temps...headers are still hot as hell! I wrapped my first turbo car down and feedpipes that were JETHOT ceramic coated with heatshield's inferno wrap! BOY did that bring down engine bay temps significantly!! So you would have thought I learned and I went and ceramic coated my kooks headers and at idle with the hood closed just bakes wire insulation, temps creep up even with SPAL extreme fans!! So going to wrap these headers again with Heatshield inferno wrap. I had NO PROBLEMS with rust or corrosion like everyone saying "Dont wrap it will rust the header" BLA BLA ...folks just reading internet jargon. My pipets were T304 SS and did not have not 1 issue wrapping my turbo downpipes and feedpipes AFTER they were ceramic coated! Ceramic coating only look pretty.....header wrap (GOOD WRAP not that cheap crap) actually WORKS in keeping engine bay temps down but doesnt look as pretty. I'd rather have a safe engine bay thats not a covection oven than to be sitting there looking pretty......and burning up!