Are my gains correct after dyno?
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Teching In
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Are my gains correct after dyno? So short story its a 2000 chevy shortbox, with a lq9, 4l60e tranny, and stock rear end. Below is the list of what i have recently done to it. Basically a lsx conversion. Question is i went from 322HP to 392HP and gained 10lbs of torque from the ls3 upgrade. Is this correct or should it net more?? My tuner is mainly a camaro, mustang, and vette person. I feel like i should be higher, I could be wrong. Need some LS professionals to weigh in on it
Engine - LQ9
Pistons - Stock
Connecting Rods - Stock
Crank - Stock
Camshaft - Texas Speed 225/230 .617/.612 112 LSA (new)
Heads - PRC Ported LS3 heads (new)
Valves - LS3 hollow stem valves (new)
Springs - factory LS3 (new)
Oil Pump - Melling high flow (new)
Timing Chain - rollermaster (new)
Lifters - LS7 stock (new)
Rocker Arms - Comp Cam trunion upgrade with LS3 rocker arms (new)
headers - pacesetter 1 7/8 long tube
exhaust - spintech 9000 true duals
Transmission - 4L60e
Converter - Yank 3000 (new)
Intake - LS3 (new)
Injectors - Stock Ls3 injectors (new)
Engine - LQ9
Pistons - Stock
Connecting Rods - Stock
Crank - Stock
Camshaft - Texas Speed 225/230 .617/.612 112 LSA (new)
Heads - PRC Ported LS3 heads (new)
Valves - LS3 hollow stem valves (new)
Springs - factory LS3 (new)
Oil Pump - Melling high flow (new)
Timing Chain - rollermaster (new)
Lifters - LS7 stock (new)
Rocker Arms - Comp Cam trunion upgrade with LS3 rocker arms (new)
headers - pacesetter 1 7/8 long tube
exhaust - spintech 9000 true duals
Transmission - 4L60e
Converter - Yank 3000 (new)
Intake - LS3 (new)
Injectors - Stock Ls3 injectors (new)
Thread Starter
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yea it was stock LQ9 which is what is in Red on the dyno sheet. Then after the above upgrades mentioned it is now the blue line, texas speed recommended the cam setup, I decided the ls3 swap parts. Everyone so far has said it is low also. IDK if it because my tuner isnt good or I need to upgrade my gears in the back and transmission with better parts since it is stock as well. Looking at a t56 swap for next year maybe...pending funds lol.
cam is on the smaller side and typically cams for ls3 heads have a wider split than that, did you get the cam recommendation BEFORE you decided to ls3 top end swap?
stall converter is going to lose a little HP compared to a stock one
looks like you lost a good bit down low too, personally I would have went with a cathedral head milled some to bump compression and maintain more velocity
stall converter is going to lose a little HP compared to a stock one
looks like you lost a good bit down low too, personally I would have went with a cathedral head milled some to bump compression and maintain more velocity
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Yea it is the same tuner that did it before and now my confidence is not great with him. The cam recommendation and LS3 heads were decided at the same time. i would have to differ to my email from texas speed as to why they gave me this cam. What size would you recommend for this setup?
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Found my email from Texas speed on what they said. I was first inferring about the magic stick 3, but they said it would not work in my motor because the Piston to valve clearance wouldnt work without having to fly cut the pistons. They then went on to say the biggest they could put in an engine with ls3 heads is 235/239 but it would depend on what kind of vehicle and transmission type.
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Assuming that the throttle is cable style, you may want to check to see if your throttle is opening 100% and that the TPS is reading accurately. It happened to me. Numbers were about 80% shy of what they expected to be. Tuner should have been able to see the throttle position.
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Ironman I would like it to be a a stout street truck but right now its not driving like i wanted, the shifting is way off and disappointed by dyno results, I have never heard of the converter being locked? The throttle does open up all the way I checked it when i mounted the cable bracket on the ls3 intake. I am mainly disappointed in the torque gains and shifting after the tune.
Honestly I looked into the ls3 heads when I switched from an ls1 block to the ls2 and the general consensus was be prepared to lose under the curve power and torque.
I can't remember which big sponsor it was but just the other day he commented that he prefers a good cathedral head on the 4" bore for a stout street build up to ~500rwhp and spinning 7000rpm or lower.
Without knowing what your air fuel ratio and timing are tuned to it's hard to say if there is anything left in the tune or not. If AFR and timing are in the ballpark you have little to gain as far as WOT but might be able to get some part throttle and better shifting from a cleaner street tune.
I can't remember which big sponsor it was but just the other day he commented that he prefers a good cathedral head on the 4" bore for a stout street build up to ~500rwhp and spinning 7000rpm or lower.
Without knowing what your air fuel ratio and timing are tuned to it's hard to say if there is anything left in the tune or not. If AFR and timing are in the ballpark you have little to gain as far as WOT but might be able to get some part throttle and better shifting from a cleaner street tune.
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alrighty guys, I appreciate the feedback here. I may just have to bite the bullet on this one. I still have all my old stock lq9 heads and intake but i have put too much into this now that i cant go back. Just going to move on to my rear end and get it where i want.
a long time ago there use to be discussion about locked vs unlocked auto dyno #'s so maybe your a little low for that reason. just a possibility. or maybe your tune for torque mgmt is off?
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I built a similar 6.0 engine.but mine has Texas speed 243s and a 228r cam. through a unlocked 4l80e/ dana 60 I made 385/385 hp/tq......I was dissaponted at first with the low numbers, but I was absolutely thrilled at how well the car ran.
I would say before you do anything else, get the trans working correctly. then see what speed it traps in the 1/4. remember, a dyno is simply a tuning tool, the real test is how quickly your truck will move down the track
I would say before you do anything else, get the trans working correctly. then see what speed it traps in the 1/4. remember, a dyno is simply a tuning tool, the real test is how quickly your truck will move down the track
On the dyno my car was 20hp less with the converter unlocked. Agree with other comments.
What is the issue with the trans, wrong shift points, shifting too hard, delayed shift. Do you think it is a functional problem or programming problem with the trans? Not my area if knowledge just bringing out conversation so maybe someone may have good advice.
What is the issue with the trans, wrong shift points, shifting too hard, delayed shift. Do you think it is a functional problem or programming problem with the trans? Not my area if knowledge just bringing out conversation so maybe someone may have good advice.
just to be sure about the throttle cable. if you havent visually inspected it opening all the way i would check that. we had to adjust the cable on mine even though it looked liked it was open all the way.
Dyno numbers are meaningless except for tuning. If you want real numbers passes at the track tell a much better story.
I dyno'ed 377rwhp and run mid 11's now consistently on street tires @ 3700lbs raceweight.
I would say my flywheel horsepower is closer to 500 given my trap speeds.
I dyno'ed 377rwhp and run mid 11's now consistently on street tires @ 3700lbs raceweight.
I would say my flywheel horsepower is closer to 500 given my trap speeds.