160 or 180 degree thermostat...
160 or 180 degree thermostat... Is it worth buying the 160 degree thermostat? I heard the car can run richer and not get a complete burn with the 160. But others say it's great.
I live in Houston Tx, and it gets brutally hot here in the summer and just want the best route to go and whichever one will give me the best fuel mileage. Thanks
I live in Houston Tx, and it gets brutally hot here in the summer and just want the best route to go and whichever one will give me the best fuel mileage. Thanks
I had a slight knock issue, and switched to a 160 stat, and it appears to have fixed it. Get the the 160...you'll be glad you did. Just make sure to get the fans reprogrammed
The thermostat is not your problem. Radiator core
thickness and radiator airflow are. Without fixing these
the colder thermostat only "helps" when you don't
need it and lets you down when you do.
thickness and radiator airflow are. Without fixing these
the colder thermostat only "helps" when you don't
need it and lets you down when you do.
It's funny, my new WP came with a stock T-stat which I think is 210* and I'm running 8.96:1 DCR on 93 gas and no knock. Old pump had a 180* in it and I prefer that. The 160* just seems low. I don't even think my car goes CL until 150*. I'd certainly be willing to give the 160* a try.
In cooler weather my radiator is cold to the touch driving around lol.
In cooler weather my radiator is cold to the touch driving around lol.
Just in case it comes up later, stock is 198 and generally reaches equilibrium at 210. A 160 will generally reach operating equilibrium at 175-180. A 180 will generally run 195-200.
Thermostat temps are the point at which it starts to open, not the target operating coolant temp.
If your needle barely moved off the bottom, it was stuck wide open
Thermostat temps are the point at which it starts to open, not the target operating coolant temp.
If your needle barely moved off the bottom, it was stuck wide open
Trending Topics
LS1 Tech Stories
The Best V8 Stories One Small Block at Time
Gas Monkey Built a 6-Wheel Ferrari Testarossa With a Corvette LT4 Engine
Verdad Gallardo
7 Most Reliable High-Performance Engines GM Has Ever Built
Verdad Gallardo
Amazing '71 Camaro Restomod Is Modern Muscle Car Under the Skin
Verdad Gallardo
6 Common C5 Corvette Failures and What's Involved In Repairing Them
Pouria Savadkouei
Retro Modern Bandit Pontiac Trans AM Comes With Burt Reynolds' Autograph
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Greatest Cadillac V Series Performance Models Ever, Ranked
Pouria Savadkouei
Top 10 Most Powerful Chevy Trucks Ever Made!
Hennessey's New Supercharged Silverado ZR2 Has 700 HP
Verdad Gallardo
Coachbuilt N2A Anteros Is an LS2-Powered C6 Corvette In Italian Clothes
Verdad Gallardo
Just in case it comes up later, stock is 198 and generally reaches equilibrium at 210. A 160 will generally reach operating equilibrium at 175-180. A 180 will generally run 195-200.
Thermostat temps are the point at which it starts to open, not the target operating coolant temp.
If your needle barely moved off the bottom, it was stuck wide open
Thermostat temps are the point at which it starts to open, not the target operating coolant temp.
If your needle barely moved off the bottom, it was stuck wide open
I can't say the 160 I tried, gave me any problems. What
I can say, and am trying to tell you, is that this or any
'stat has -no- authority over the upper end of temp
swing at all. It only sets the bottom. Airflow and core
heat throw per airflow, against motor heat output, set
the upper end. 160, 180, it doesn't matter. 160 'stat
and Atlanta pavement in July, still got over-the-top
coolant temps and beaucoup ping. 180 'stat and LT1
radiator, never over the usual point on the gauge in
similar conditions.
If you're going to throw money at a problem (or even
a non-problem), aiming helps.
I can say, and am trying to tell you, is that this or any
'stat has -no- authority over the upper end of temp
swing at all. It only sets the bottom. Airflow and core
heat throw per airflow, against motor heat output, set
the upper end. 160, 180, it doesn't matter. 160 'stat
and Atlanta pavement in July, still got over-the-top
coolant temps and beaucoup ping. 180 'stat and LT1
radiator, never over the usual point on the gauge in
similar conditions.
If you're going to throw money at a problem (or even
a non-problem), aiming helps.
That is a good point Jimmy.
My car will sit at what ever T-stat I have in it and not a penny more. I'm fortunate enough to have a great sized rad for an N/A motor. FI v8 is a BEAST to cool in an RX-7 though. I'll probably be going to the 180 like I had last time.
My car will sit at what ever T-stat I have in it and not a penny more. I'm fortunate enough to have a great sized rad for an N/A motor. FI v8 is a BEAST to cool in an RX-7 though. I'll probably be going to the 180 like I had last time.
Launching!
Joined: Feb 2015
Posts: 228
Likes: 0
From: Chemical Valley
Coolant senor is new. 180 t stat is new. I replaced them because the gauge would barely come off the peg at 160. It had a Motorad t stat before and I was just guessing it was a 160. Now that it has been replaced with a 180 it runs at the temperature pictured above. I actually used to think the fans didn't work because they never kick on. They work fine it just never gets hot enough to kick them on unless I let the car sit and idle for a good while.
Launching!
Joined: Feb 2015
Posts: 228
Likes: 0
From: Chemical Valley
Fwiw I know how a t stat works and I'm sure my old t stat was stuck open. But what would make my car run cooler than normal? I'm baffled.
I think a aftermarket temp gauge is in order I'm not so sure that the factory gauge is trustworthy or even operating correctly at this point.
I think a aftermarket temp gauge is in order I'm not so sure that the factory gauge is trustworthy or even operating correctly at this point.
Fwiw I know how a t stat works and I'm sure my old t stat was stuck open. But what would make my car run cooler than normal? I'm baffled. I think a aftermarket temp gauge is in order I'm not so sure that the factory gauge is trustworthy or even operating correctly at this point.
TECH Junkie
Joined: Nov 2013
Posts: 3,913
Likes: 366
From: White Bear, Mn
Coolant senor is new. 180 t stat is new. I replaced them because the gauge would barely come off the peg at 160. It had a Motorad t stat before and I was just guessing it was a 160. Now that it has been replaced with a 180 it runs at the temperature pictured above. I actually used to think the fans didn't work because they never kick on. They work fine it just never gets hot enough to kick them on unless I let the car sit and idle for a good while.
Ya, mine reads exactly the same but with a snap on diagnostic scanner it says it's running at 188 degrees when the fans make there first cycle iirc
Ok. I ordered the 180, but they QUOTED me $13 and they got me the hypertech, which is $60.
I don't know if it's worth $60 for a thermostat vs $13 for a 187. Are there any gains to be made from the switch?
I may just pay $30 for the 160 and get the computer tuned. I live in Houston in brutally hot weather. My engine will put out between 420-430 rwhp and I don't want any knock or detonation
I don't know if it's worth $60 for a thermostat vs $13 for a 187. Are there any gains to be made from the switch?
I may just pay $30 for the 160 and get the computer tuned. I live in Houston in brutally hot weather. My engine will put out between 420-430 rwhp and I don't want any knock or detonation