228r LS1 problems HELP ME PLEASE!!
11-19-2015, 09:25 PM
#1
Teching In
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2010
Posts: 37
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
228r LS1 problems HELP ME PLEASE!! Alright so my head hurts so bad I cant stand it. I have an 02 SS, it was bone stock for 106k miles when I got back from deployment and had a pocket full of money and decided to put a cam in it.
MODS:
TSP 228R CAM
SLP HIGH VOLUME OIL PUMP
SLP DUAL ROLLER TIMING CHAIN
TSP 1-3/4 LT HEADERS
TSP ORY CATTED
COMP 26918 BEHIVE VALVE SPRINGS (EDIT)
TICK MASTER CYLINDER
SPEC STAGE 2 CLUTCH AND PRESSURE PLATE
HAWKS 3RD GEN STAGE 2 T56 KIT
EGR AND AIR SYSTEM HAVE BEEN DELETED
POST CAT O2 SENSORS HAVE BEED DELETED
The car started out just stumbling at an idle, I would pull out of a parking spot and when I pushed the clutch in to go into first it would either stumble to about 200-300 rpm then catch itself and rev to 1000-1100 then back down to 2-300 until it would finally idle normaly. Sometimes it will stall during this scenario. Then it started acting like it was running on 4 cylinders unless went past 50% throttle, past 50% throttle it will "kick in all 8" and take off hard. sometimes I can shut the car off and restart it and it will be fine, just stumble, but here recently it is doing it all the time.
I did the cam swap myself using a very detailed write-up off of LS1tech. I have a bit of experience with engines messing with old small blocks with my dad but I can be a bit of an idiot sometimes and I messed up a couple times during the install. First thing I did was rip the wires out of the MAP sensor (before I knew you didn't have to take the intake off to get the cam out) but I fixed that with a brand new connector and made 100% sure that it was wired correctly and soldered the new connector on. The second thing I did was neglect to plug in the bank 2 coil pack on first start up, I know I'm stupid but I was so excited to hear it run I just missed it.
Hopefully someone can look at the information that I've given and tell me what my problem is or at least point me in the right direction. I was thinking it was the MAF because I read that it isn't used past a certain throttle position. I was also wondering if maybe I damaged the coil packs my not plugging them in right away.
Any questions please let me know, I'm not the kind of guy that throws parts at things so I'd like to pinpoint the problem. oh and also my MAF sensor is readying 1.35 lb/h and my MAP is 15.0 "HG at idle. Not sure if those are good or not for a cammed engine. The car runs much better with the MAP unplugged but I'm not sure if that's because of whatever mode the engine goes in with the MAP unplugged. I've also unplugged the MAF sensor and let it run in speed density, nothing changed. The SES light flashes sometimes, makes me very scared to drive it.
Please help!
MODS:
TSP 228R CAM
SLP HIGH VOLUME OIL PUMP
SLP DUAL ROLLER TIMING CHAIN
TSP 1-3/4 LT HEADERS
TSP ORY CATTED
COMP 26918 BEHIVE VALVE SPRINGS (EDIT)
TICK MASTER CYLINDER
SPEC STAGE 2 CLUTCH AND PRESSURE PLATE
HAWKS 3RD GEN STAGE 2 T56 KIT
EGR AND AIR SYSTEM HAVE BEEN DELETED
POST CAT O2 SENSORS HAVE BEED DELETED
The car started out just stumbling at an idle, I would pull out of a parking spot and when I pushed the clutch in to go into first it would either stumble to about 200-300 rpm then catch itself and rev to 1000-1100 then back down to 2-300 until it would finally idle normaly. Sometimes it will stall during this scenario. Then it started acting like it was running on 4 cylinders unless went past 50% throttle, past 50% throttle it will "kick in all 8" and take off hard. sometimes I can shut the car off and restart it and it will be fine, just stumble, but here recently it is doing it all the time.
I did the cam swap myself using a very detailed write-up off of LS1tech. I have a bit of experience with engines messing with old small blocks with my dad but I can be a bit of an idiot sometimes and I messed up a couple times during the install. First thing I did was rip the wires out of the MAP sensor (before I knew you didn't have to take the intake off to get the cam out) but I fixed that with a brand new connector and made 100% sure that it was wired correctly and soldered the new connector on. The second thing I did was neglect to plug in the bank 2 coil pack on first start up, I know I'm stupid but I was so excited to hear it run I just missed it.
Hopefully someone can look at the information that I've given and tell me what my problem is or at least point me in the right direction. I was thinking it was the MAF because I read that it isn't used past a certain throttle position. I was also wondering if maybe I damaged the coil packs my not plugging them in right away.
Any questions please let me know, I'm not the kind of guy that throws parts at things so I'd like to pinpoint the problem. oh and also my MAF sensor is readying 1.35 lb/h and my MAP is 15.0 "HG at idle. Not sure if those are good or not for a cammed engine. The car runs much better with the MAP unplugged but I'm not sure if that's because of whatever mode the engine goes in with the MAP unplugged. I've also unplugged the MAF sensor and let it run in speed density, nothing changed. The SES light flashes sometimes, makes me very scared to drive it.
Please help!
Last edited by SSBrutus02; 11-19-2015 at 09:54 PM.
11-19-2015, 09:45 PM
#3
Teching In
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2010
Posts: 37
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Yes it was tuned by Carolina auto masters in Durham. the guy seemed to know what he was doing but then again you never know. I want to eliminate all the sensors before I blame the tune.
Sounds like a tune issue to you?
Sounds like a tune issue to you?
11-19-2015, 09:57 PM
#5
Teching In
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2010
Posts: 37
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I haven't sprayed starter fluid around just to make sure but I'm sure I've got everything hooked up. The only thing that's open is where the AIR system hooks up but that's before the MAF and it would be metered air, but its blocked off anyway.
11-20-2015, 07:35 PM
#7
If the ses flashes at times what code does it give you? That will lead you in a better direction.If you feel like there is any chance you could have pinched a wire or not plug in coils properly then unplug it and inspect the pins on the connector and make sure they are not bent.Other than that I think your tune needs more time being looked at.
Trending Topics
11-25-2015, 09:19 PM
#9
Teching In
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2010
Posts: 37
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
This problem started on the way home from the dyno.
The code that it throws is a P0300, and i've seen a P0301. random misfire and cylinder 1 misfire.
It doesnt stumble at all when i unplug the map sensor, is that because it looks at different fuel tables?
i dont want to take it back to the dyno and complain about their tune job when they fix it with a sensor.
But i'm almost convinced it has to be something in the tune.
The code that it throws is a P0300, and i've seen a P0301. random misfire and cylinder 1 misfire.
It doesnt stumble at all when i unplug the map sensor, is that because it looks at different fuel tables?
i dont want to take it back to the dyno and complain about their tune job when they fix it with a sensor.
But i'm almost convinced it has to be something in the tune.
11-29-2015, 11:36 AM
#10
TECH Resident
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Patterson, CA
Posts: 858
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
bad plugs or not seated wires? my car is stock and i had misfire on 7 changed plugs and wires and resolved it. number 7 plug was nasty when i pulled it out. most likely due to unburnt fuel.
11-29-2015, 05:46 PM
#11
Teching In
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2010
Posts: 37
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
its got brand new plugs, and I've checked the wires multiple times. That wouldn't explain why when I go WOT that all 8 kicks in
I've done more messing with it and it starts acting funny when it goes from open to closed loop. my o2 sensors read 1.105v in open loop and closed loop for a while, is that right? or should they start switching sooner.
I had one reading 1.105v on startup and the other switching immediately after startup and when I changed out the one that read 1.105v it still did the same thing so I assumed maybe the other one was reading incorrectly. I did not replace them with new sensors. They are my old post-cat 02 sensors. they both read 1.105v for a while until they warm up I guess, and the problem still exist.
I've done more messing with it and it starts acting funny when it goes from open to closed loop. my o2 sensors read 1.105v in open loop and closed loop for a while, is that right? or should they start switching sooner.
I had one reading 1.105v on startup and the other switching immediately after startup and when I changed out the one that read 1.105v it still did the same thing so I assumed maybe the other one was reading incorrectly. I did not replace them with new sensors. They are my old post-cat 02 sensors. they both read 1.105v for a while until they warm up I guess, and the problem still exist.
11-29-2015, 07:16 PM
#13
Teching In
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2010
Posts: 37
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I know the name sounds iffy, but jeff, the guy that owns the place, seemed pretty knowledgeable and all he had in the shop was ls's. I guess I just want a second opinion on if the tune is right or not. but I don't really want to spend a bunch of money to get it re-tuned.
11-29-2015, 07:23 PM
#15
Teching In
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2010
Posts: 37
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Oh, very well. Thanks for the heads up. Hopefully I wont get charged a boatload for someone to just check it out. I swear to god man I'm so frustrated, to the point I've been on craigslist looking to sell it.