Valve cover gaskets at 192K
Thread Starter
Joined: Mar 2016
Posts: 484
Likes: 10
From: Albertville, AL
Valve cover gaskets at 192K Car has 192K and ran synthetic from day one(according to previous owner). Car is stock with Lid and Magnaflo muffler. I have some minor oil leaking from the vlv cvr gaskets and decided to tackle the job today. Went pretty well with the worst part being the removal of the back coil pack bolt on the passenger side. I'm also expecting my LS6 intake to be in the mail this week and will be a great time to put it on. I've had the car months and this is the biggest job yet. LS6 intake next, then headers, exhaust and tune.
Anything I should have done with covers off? I did clean the outside up really nice and of course the gasket sealing surface too.
Here are some photos I took. Things look great to me under the cover. I'm curious to see what you guys think.
Anything I should have done with covers off? I did clean the outside up really nice and of course the gasket sealing surface too.
Here are some photos I took. Things look great to me under the cover. I'm curious to see what you guys think.
Staging Lane
Joined: Jun 2013
Posts: 59
Likes: 1
From: Pensacola, FL
Nothing really than clean them really well. I use brake cleaner, but whatever works. At that mileage I'd replace the gromets too. Check to see if the cover is cracked or warped. GM, Fel-Pro, or Victor Reinz are good gaskets. I've been tracking a small VC oil leak myself. I've had a little success with Fel-Pro, but the leak is still there. I'm going with Victor Reinz because I heard they seal the best.
Most importantly, torque the VC bolts to 106 INCH/lb... preferably inside to out. 106 in/lb is approximately 9 ft/lb. The coil brackets are 106 in/lb as well.... I just get them snug and only worry about torquing the VC to spec. Also, don't be afraid to detach stuff such as the fuel lines to ensure you can easily place the VC and not kink it.
Also, Check the PCV piping for leaks too. The stock LS1 PCV system is a piece of **** honestly for multiple reasons including leaks. At that mileage (and age) it is probably very brittle, so be careful.
If you do the driver's side too, the back coil bracket to VC bolt isn't necessary. It is intertwined with the AIR valve bracket back there and is a bitch to remove. Leaving it off will make future repairs much easier.
Most importantly, torque the VC bolts to 106 INCH/lb... preferably inside to out. 106 in/lb is approximately 9 ft/lb. The coil brackets are 106 in/lb as well.... I just get them snug and only worry about torquing the VC to spec. Also, don't be afraid to detach stuff such as the fuel lines to ensure you can easily place the VC and not kink it.
Also, Check the PCV piping for leaks too. The stock LS1 PCV system is a piece of **** honestly for multiple reasons including leaks. At that mileage (and age) it is probably very brittle, so be careful.
If you do the driver's side too, the back coil bracket to VC bolt isn't necessary. It is intertwined with the AIR valve bracket back there and is a bitch to remove. Leaving it off will make future repairs much easier.
Thread Starter
Joined: Mar 2016
Posts: 484
Likes: 10
From: Albertville, AL
I appreciate the response. I cleaned the mating surface on the head with acetone to ensure a good seal. I did change out the grommets too, they were a little brittle. Gasket set is Felpro. My PCV hose had already had some patchwork and I plan to go with all 3/8 fuel line for the whole thing. I did remove the fuel lines out of the way because I'm swapping to an LS6 manifold this week and have to remove them anyway.
I didn't do any cleaning on the inside of the cover. Is there any reason to? I didn't notice any cracks in the covers but I'll take a closer look.
Thanks again for the suggestions. I'm pretty new to the LS motor.
I didn't do any cleaning on the inside of the cover. Is there any reason to? I didn't notice any cracks in the covers but I'll take a closer look.
Thanks again for the suggestions. I'm pretty new to the LS motor.
12 Second Club
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 4,273
Likes: 0
From: Bucks County, Pa.
It looks pretty good under there. 
Consider yourself lucky in that being all you have to do with those miles on the engine.
At ~175K miles at least one of my lifters went, and while hesitating to do the whole, involved, heads off job to change them out, I now am thinking the only way out is to replace the whole deal with either a low mile used, or crate engine.
I do NOT want to pay to have this engine torn down only to have the builder tell me that the cam bores are gone, pay him for THAT labor, and then first have to find a new block and heads, and then have to pay crazy coin to have the whole thing built and make LESS power than a used LS6, or a Chevy LS3 crate (while paying MUCH MORE than either of those options, even with changing pout the LS3 reluctor!).
Consider yourself lucky in that being all you have to do with those miles on the engine.
At ~175K miles at least one of my lifters went, and while hesitating to do the whole, involved, heads off job to change them out, I now am thinking the only way out is to replace the whole deal with either a low mile used, or crate engine.
I do NOT want to pay to have this engine torn down only to have the builder tell me that the cam bores are gone, pay him for THAT labor, and then first have to find a new block and heads, and then have to pay crazy coin to have the whole thing built and make LESS power than a used LS6, or a Chevy LS3 crate (while paying MUCH MORE than either of those options, even with changing pout the LS3 reluctor!).
Thread Starter
Joined: Mar 2016
Posts: 484
Likes: 10
From: Albertville, AL
It looks pretty good under there.
Consider yourself lucky in that being all you have to do with those miles on the engine.
At ~175K miles at least one of my lifters went, and while hesitating to do the whole, involved, heads off job to change them out, I now am thinking the only way out is to replace the whole deal with either a low mile used, or crate engine.
I do NOT want to pay to have this engine torn down only to have the builder tell me that the cam bores are gone, pay him for THAT labor, and then first have to find a new block and heads, and then have to pay crazy coin to have the whole thing built and make LESS power than a used LS6, or a Chevy LS3 crate (while paying MUCH MORE than either of those options, even with changing pout the LS3 reluctor!).
Consider yourself lucky in that being all you have to do with those miles on the engine.
At ~175K miles at least one of my lifters went, and while hesitating to do the whole, involved, heads off job to change them out, I now am thinking the only way out is to replace the whole deal with either a low mile used, or crate engine.
I do NOT want to pay to have this engine torn down only to have the builder tell me that the cam bores are gone, pay him for THAT labor, and then first have to find a new block and heads, and then have to pay crazy coin to have the whole thing built and make LESS power than a used LS6, or a Chevy LS3 crate (while paying MUCH MORE than either of those options, even with changing pout the LS3 reluctor!).
Staging Lane
Joined: Jun 2013
Posts: 59
Likes: 1
From: Pensacola, FL
I've heard of the gen III's lasting well into 200k mile range especially if you haven't given it some giggle gas or boost. It's a little bit of luck, a lot of maintenance and common sense.
Anyways rybern, no you don't have to clean the inside, but it's always a good idea if you have time. Bare minimum, don't let it be dripping oil everywhere (common sense lol). Do clean the grooves the gaskets go in with brake cleaner. I would also suggest looking into to a later model LS6 valley cover swap with catch can to delete the LS1 PCV altogether. This would be especially convenient while you are doing the intake swap.
Anyways rybern, no you don't have to clean the inside, but it's always a good idea if you have time. Bare minimum, don't let it be dripping oil everywhere (common sense lol). Do clean the grooves the gaskets go in with brake cleaner. I would also suggest looking into to a later model LS6 valley cover swap with catch can to delete the LS1 PCV altogether. This would be especially convenient while you are doing the intake swap.
Thread Starter
Joined: Mar 2016
Posts: 484
Likes: 10
From: Albertville, AL
I've heard of the gen III's lasting well into 200k mile range especially if you haven't given it some giggle gas or boost. It's a little bit of luck, a lot of maintenance and common sense.
Anyways rybern, no you don't have to clean the inside, but it's always a good idea if you have time. Bare minimum, don't let it be dripping oil everywhere (common sense lol). Do clean the grooves the gaskets go in with brake cleaner. I would also suggest looking into to a later model LS6 valley cover swap with catch can to delete the LS1 PCV altogether. This would be especially convenient while you are doing the intake swap.
Anyways rybern, no you don't have to clean the inside, but it's always a good idea if you have time. Bare minimum, don't let it be dripping oil everywhere (common sense lol). Do clean the grooves the gaskets go in with brake cleaner. I would also suggest looking into to a later model LS6 valley cover swap with catch can to delete the LS1 PCV altogether. This would be especially convenient while you are doing the intake swap.
I ran a rag through through the gasket groove, but didn't use break cleaner. As a precaution, I may remove it and do that. I considered the LS6 valley swap. I may look into that a bit more. I suppose it wouldn't hurt to take a peek at the knock sensors while I have the intake off too.
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Joined: Jun 2013
Posts: 59
Likes: 1
From: Pensacola, FL
http://ls1howto.com/index.php?article=18
You use that red cap on the valley cover on the passenger side valve cover. I replaced the OPSU because I thought it was leaking.
I cleaned the oil out of the intake with Purple Purple. With an intake swap, you can skip this step.
Thread Starter
Joined: Mar 2016
Posts: 484
Likes: 10
From: Albertville, AL
Thanks for the info and photos. Nice job on your install.
It looks like the GM12577927 is actually the new style cover from the one you specified. At least that is the way I understand it.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...ley-cover.html
It looks like the GM12577927 is actually the new style cover from the one you specified. At least that is the way I understand it.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...ley-cover.html
Staging Lane
Joined: Jun 2013
Posts: 59
Likes: 1
From: Pensacola, FL
Thanks for the info and photos. Nice job on your install.
It looks like the GM12577927 is actually the new style cover from the one you specified. At least that is the way I understand it.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...ley-cover.html
It looks like the GM12577927 is actually the new style cover from the one you specified. At least that is the way I understand it.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...ley-cover.html
Thread Starter
Joined: Mar 2016
Posts: 484
Likes: 10
From: Albertville, AL
You sir are correct. I'm super sorry, but glad I'm wrong so you don't have to cancel your order. I'm pretty sure I have the new one as well and just referenced the number from ls1howto. Still, I get 3-5 oz of oil on the catch can per 3k mile oil change intervals (I'm guesstimating this from the amount a 1.5 oz shot of whiskey looks like haha).
I never would have thought about cleaning the intake. Once again, I appreciate everyones suggestions and tips.