2001 LS-1 Oil pan
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Joined: Aug 2016
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Thanks for your reply, i have seen the Improved Racing version and it looks good. i am
just trying to decide if this baffle is needed for my application or is the current baffle is sufficient.
Thanks,
Joe
just trying to decide if this baffle is needed for my application or is the current baffle is sufficient.
Thanks,
Joe
IMO, there is no scientific way you could prove this so it's like buying insurance. $200 to save you from oil starvation that would cost you thousands in repairs. It also occurs to me that if the F-body baffle were particularly suited for RR, folks would be hunting those for RR purposes. But hopefully some F guys will happen on this thread and give direct knowledge.
FWIW, I am building a CTS-V and that vehicle I think was much more directly engineered for handling(as much as a 4-door can be) and most V owners seem to agree that the stock baffle is inadequate for sustained, high-speed cornering. I've got a IR baffle setup waiting to go in once I clean up my factory pan. I've also got one of their crank scrapers to go on at the same time which might give me an extra 2% or so power and give me a little more RPM overhead.
FWIW, I am building a CTS-V and that vehicle I think was much more directly engineered for handling(as much as a 4-door can be) and most V owners seem to agree that the stock baffle is inadequate for sustained, high-speed cornering. I've got a IR baffle setup waiting to go in once I clean up my factory pan. I've also got one of their crank scrapers to go on at the same time which might give me an extra 2% or so power and give me a little more RPM overhead.
IMO (FWTW), no, it's not sufficient for road racing.
At the very least, you should add the Improved Racing drop in baffle. Optimally, you should install a pan specifically designed for racing, with a gated collector and additional volume.
Youe should also consider an Accusump.
At the very least, you should add the Improved Racing drop in baffle. Optimally, you should install a pan specifically designed for racing, with a gated collector and additional volume.
Youe should also consider an Accusump.
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Just to provide some numbers, in general, the factory oil pans are good for about 1G of sustained cornering before your start starving for oil. This varies a bit between oil pans and the track and environmental conditions.
With one of the Improved Racing baffles installed, you can pull up to about 1.4 sustained G's before you start starving for oil again (again, varies a little between pans and conditions). We have some customers pulling up to 2 G's with our baffle + an Accusump without issues, but that's kind of pushing it. You should be going dry sump at that point.
There isn't usually a performance improvement in most cases between a dedicated custom oil pan and a stock pan with an Improved Racing baffle, unless (1) The dedicated pan has a higher oil volume capacity or (2) The dedicated pan was build for something very specific, such as drag racing or oval racing (with the pickup tube in the rear or on the right side of the pan, respectively). We like the factory pans because they are cast aluminum and stiffer than most aftermarket sheet metal pans, which are more likely to flex and leak.
With one of the Improved Racing baffles installed, you can pull up to about 1.4 sustained G's before you start starving for oil again (again, varies a little between pans and conditions). We have some customers pulling up to 2 G's with our baffle + an Accusump without issues, but that's kind of pushing it. You should be going dry sump at that point.
There isn't usually a performance improvement in most cases between a dedicated custom oil pan and a stock pan with an Improved Racing baffle, unless (1) The dedicated pan has a higher oil volume capacity or (2) The dedicated pan was build for something very specific, such as drag racing or oval racing (with the pickup tube in the rear or on the right side of the pan, respectively). We like the factory pans because they are cast aluminum and stiffer than most aftermarket sheet metal pans, which are more likely to flex and leak.
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thanks for the information, I have bought one of your Improved Racing baffles to install. Next question- what will need to be done to get the oil pan out from under the engine on a 2001 Camaro? will I need to pick the engine up or tilt to one side?
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From: Orlando, Florida
1) Unbolt the engine mounts
2) Lift the engine a couple of inches with a hoist
3) You may need to loosen the subframe bolts and lower the subframe by some amount to get enough clearance to remove the oil pan. And/or you may need to unbolt the steering rack in order to lower the front of the pan enough to get it out.
Others that have done this may have more input or tips.
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