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Old Nov 7, 2016 | 11:32 AM
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Default LS Covers - Paint or Powdercoat

My LS1 is completely disassembled...block is at machine shop. While thats there, I've got all the covers here..Valve Covers, Front, Rear & Valley, which I'd like to paint OR powdercoat.

Cost to Powder it wouldnt be THAT Bad as I have some other items already there.. As for Paint i'd probably just use the Duplicolor Engine Enamel.

Any issues with warpage of the covers or blasting damage with dealing with Powder?
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Old Nov 7, 2016 | 01:31 PM
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I've done both paint and powder coat. Never had any problems with the covers in the powder coat oven.
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Old Nov 8, 2016 | 11:26 AM
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All my ***** painted!

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Old Nov 8, 2016 | 01:02 PM
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On previous cars I PC'ed everything. Very durable finish, and fun to try and get special finishes out of it. On the LS1 race engine, I just painted them. Mostly because I was lazy.
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Old Nov 8, 2016 | 06:48 PM
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Originally Posted by pozesd99'
All my ***** painted!

.....DDAAAAAAAMMMMMMNNNNN...Real nice work on em!

Seeing that, I think I'll save some money and just paint as well.

No issues with the Duplicolor Engine Enamel with Ceramic?
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Old Nov 8, 2016 | 07:48 PM
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I used the wrinkle finish stuff and let it bake. The brackets were sprayed with a "chrome" spray
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Old Nov 8, 2016 | 09:43 PM
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Never had any luck with dupicolor engine enamel. I've recently used the wrinkle paint and I love it. Spray it heavy and bake it and it's tough as hell I used a engine temp primer before on my valve covers. Turned out great. I'm planning to do timing cover and waterpump when I tear it apart over the winter.

powder coat is nice but gets expensive and needs all the prep work etc. if u can't do it yourself it costs money to have someone do it.
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Old Nov 9, 2016 | 08:44 AM
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Originally Posted by customblackbird
powder coat is nice but gets expensive and needs all the prep work etc. if u can't do it yourself it costs money to have someone do it.
True. Prep is the same as paint, so that's no different. I bought a gun and an old kitchen stove. I can PC anything that fits in the oven. Powders are pretty cheap these days, too.

Most of the time, PC looks exactly like paint. But you do get a really durable finish. You can play around with it, and get some special finishes that look good. I like translucent colors over chrome or polished aluminum - looks almost like candy. I tried some prismatic flakes, but it came out looking like a 60's dune buggy or a bass boat.
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Old Nov 9, 2016 | 08:51 AM
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Originally Posted by .boB
True. Prep is the same as paint, so that's no different. I bought a gun and an old kitchen stove. I can PC anything that fits in the oven. Powders are pretty cheap these days, too.

Most of the time, PC looks exactly like paint. But you do get a really durable finish. You can play around with it, and get some special finishes that look good. I like translucent colors over chrome or polished aluminum - looks almost like candy. I tried some prismatic flakes, but it came out looking like a 60's dune buggy or a bass boat.
I wouldnt say its the same prep as paint. For my OE 150k nast valve covers I did a clean with brake clean, spray with high temp primer, 5 coats of wrinkle and bake at 200*F for 1 hour. With powder coating the part needs to be uber clean, bead blasted for a surface finish for it to grab to, a decent powder coat system and then limited by oven space. The wrinkle paint doesnt have to be oven cured but it makes the wrinkles tighter and speeds up the process... But it also can air dry over a few hours. Still for durability PC will always win.
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Old Nov 9, 2016 | 11:16 AM
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I would think wrinkly powder coat would be hard to clean once it gets some dust caked on it? Smooth paint may be easier to brush/dust off? If engine cleaning matters to anyone.
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Old Nov 9, 2016 | 12:36 PM
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Sure but its just a more involved cleaning. Prob something bristly or air pressure/power washer. Smooth surface will just wipe clean.
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Old Nov 9, 2016 | 08:32 PM
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That wrinkle looks great but I want a smooth/satin finish...just the look I'm going for.

As for powder vs Paint...you guys are right, key is batching and finding a shop who WANTS the work.
Personally I have a shop I use for some other work I do so as long as I bring my own powder, and am not in a rush, they're really reasonable. But of course a couple cans of primer and couple cans of paint is most definitely cheaper.

Anybody have any Paint recommendations? its not too late to change cause I haven't started painting anything yet.
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Old Nov 9, 2016 | 08:43 PM
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Originally Posted by dave454ss
That wrinkle looks great but I want a smooth/satin finish...just the look I'm going for.

As for powder vs Paint...you guys are right, key is batching and finding a shop who WANTS the work.
Personally I have a shop I use for some other work I do so as long as I bring my own powder, and am not in a rush, they're really reasonable. But of course a couple cans of primer and couple cans of paint is most definitely cheaper.

Anybody have any Paint recommendations? its not too late to change cause I haven't started painting anything yet.
paint recomendation from me would be to seal and spray in 2k urethane. You can get colors in spray can form from Eastwood for like 20/30$ a can I think. It's real auto paint as it has a activator inside you open and once open has to be used in 24/48 hrs. The paint should hold up very well and engine temps aren't too much for it. You could shoot it with a gloss or Matt clear for added protection.
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Old Nov 12, 2016 | 04:25 AM
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Originally Posted by customblackbird
paint recomendation from me would be to seal and spray in 2k urethane. You can get colors in spray can form from Eastwood for like 20/30$ a can I think. It's real auto paint as it has a activator inside you open and once open has to be used in 24/48 hrs. The paint should hold up very well and engine temps aren't too much for it. You could shoot it with a gloss or Matt clear for added protection.
Yeah prep is really key. I start out with an epoxy primer first, it creates that superior bond, even more so on aluminum. Tough as nails too.
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Old Nov 12, 2016 | 08:12 AM
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Originally Posted by Quick Ranger
Yeah prep is really key. I start out with an epoxy primer first, it creates that superior bond, even more so on aluminum. Tough as nails too.
Yea that's what I meant. Seal and paint is to use a primer/sealer to seal the base material off then hit it with a top coat and clear of wanted. Primer on bare metal/aluminum is no good with out a sealer.
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