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My speed engineering exhaust where it goes over axle always slips out even with wider clamps. Then my dual tips turn and look crooked. Once I put my motor back in I'm welding it up. Maybe just tack welds but if it doesn't hold straight I don't want it. I never had drone issues but I also had no lock up converter and it stayed above 2500 at all times cruising.
. New set up will be lock up and if it drones ,borla xr1 mufflers and maybe some bullets closer to the headers will be installed.
My speed engineering exhaust where it goes over axle always slips out even with wider clamps. Then my dual tips turn and look crooked. Once I put my motor back in I'm welding it up. Maybe just tack welds but if it doesn't hold straight I don't want it. I never had drone issues but I also had no lock up converter and it stayed above 2500 at all times cruising.
. New set up will be lock up and if it drones ,borla xr1 mufflers and maybe some bullets closer to the headers will be installed.
use 3" lap joint band clamps. Shouldn't come loose
Weld it up. Every OEM exhaust I have seen, except for any flex joints, is welded solid. I put a Walker Dynomax system in my Tahoe, clamped it all together, then went to town where I had it welded up at the muffler shop. Peace of mind....
Wow!! Just finished going through this whole thread from start to finish!!
Last couple of posts regarding lose connections, I recall reading way back taking out the "hourglass" spacer in the clamp makes tightening more effective.
Anyway I have the whole system off the car because I swapped the M6 for a 4L60e (yes I know everything wrong with this).
After reading all of the posts I am not convinced about putting the dual 3 inch back on.
Sounds like a Y pipe with manual cutouts is the way to go. Flange the Y pipe at the header's and before the muffler to make transmission removal easy. Y pipe through an straight through open bottle muffler, single 3 inch over Moser 9 inch splitting into two 2.5 pipes with tips. I already have the over the axle section back in stainless from another car.
Wow!! Just finished going through this whole thread from start to finish!!
Last couple of posts regarding lose connections, I recall reading way back taking out the "hourglass" spacer in the clamp makes tightening more effective.
Anyway I have the whole system off the car because I swapped the M6 for a 4L60e (yes I know everything wrong with this).
After reading all of the posts I am not convinced about putting the dual 3 inch back on.
Sounds like a Y pipe with manual cutouts is the way to go. Flange the Y pipe at the header's and before the muffler to make transmission removal easy. Y pipe through an straight through open bottle muffler, single 3 inch over Moser 9 inch splitting into two 2.5 pipes with tips. I already have the over the axle section back in stainless from another car.
Then uncap the cutouts when racing.
Sounds like a plan..............??
The Y pipe with dual electric low profile cutouts is the way to go:
An update, I cut the outlet pipes on the dumped duals back to just outside the seat buckets. I installed borla XS mufflers with an offset Inlet center out. They fit nicely and I have a fist worth of clearance. For a dumped system, it's very quiet.
05-06-2022, 08:47 AM
