Good alternator for 7000 RPM and Procharger
#1
Good alternator for 7000 RPM and Procharger
My stock alternator has stopped charging. A couple of 7k blasts last week likely killed it.
I've thought about picking up a new ACDelco AD244 145A truck alternator, but want something that'll power twin Walbro 467 pumps, a 750W amp, fit behind an Aster Bracket, and not put too much stress on the crank.
Any suggestions?
I've thought about picking up a new ACDelco AD244 145A truck alternator, but want something that'll power twin Walbro 467 pumps, a 750W amp, fit behind an Aster Bracket, and not put too much stress on the crank.
Any suggestions?
#3
I had been. But I didn't retighten my ground after I pulled off my wideband last week. Then I took it out and ran it hard. Then it stopped charging. Battery appears to be okay. It's an Odyssey dry cell. And it recharged on my 40-amp ASM charger.
So, I'm going to try the ACDelco 335-1092. I've been looking at upgrading it so it can charge everything with less stress. I'm using a Big 3 upgrade as well. When I did that, it solved a lot of my voltage gremlins and got me back to 14.2V charging. So my alternator was struggling before. I'm sure it was on it's last legs. 146k miles.
So, I'm going to try the ACDelco 335-1092. I've been looking at upgrading it so it can charge everything with less stress. I'm using a Big 3 upgrade as well. When I did that, it solved a lot of my voltage gremlins and got me back to 14.2V charging. So my alternator was struggling before. I'm sure it was on it's last legs. 146k miles.
#6
LS1Tech Premium Sponsor
iTrader: (2)
I was unaware brian connor drove ls cars. Ha just pokin fun Jake.
The truck alt will work fine esp if you are using an overdrive crank pulley, but upgrading engine grounds, exciter pigtail chassis grounds ,and actually powering the 450s like they should would likely cut down on your issues. And running larger gauge wire from alt to batt etc etc.
You should shut your amp off at wide open anyway imo.
The truck alt will work fine esp if you are using an overdrive crank pulley, but upgrading engine grounds, exciter pigtail chassis grounds ,and actually powering the 450s like they should would likely cut down on your issues. And running larger gauge wire from alt to batt etc etc.
You should shut your amp off at wide open anyway imo.
#7
TECH Apprentice
iTrader: (11)
Yes it is but will say this, my ls2 corvette would charge around 12.7-13.1, however as the engine reached higher operating Temps the voltage would drop to 11.7.
This created a warning message on the readout to check voltage.
After installing the Mechman Billet Tech 170 my voltage never goes below 13.9 and charges steady at 14.9.
It's critical all electronics are getting a solid 13 volts while operational. It's very critical to injector pulses.
It was tough for me to shell $500 for an alternator but glad I did.
This created a warning message on the readout to check voltage.
After installing the Mechman Billet Tech 170 my voltage never goes below 13.9 and charges steady at 14.9.
It's critical all electronics are getting a solid 13 volts while operational. It's very critical to injector pulses.
It was tough for me to shell $500 for an alternator but glad I did.
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#8
I may go that way. It's a good looking unit.
I'm doing the Pantera EFI coils too. So a lot of power being used. My TPS issue cleared up doing the 1 gauge wire from the alternator to the battery. So I know it's true.
And yes, amp and a/c go off before I let it rip.
I'm doing the Pantera EFI coils too. So a lot of power being used. My TPS issue cleared up doing the 1 gauge wire from the alternator to the battery. So I know it's true.
And yes, amp and a/c go off before I let it rip.
#9
LS1Tech Premium Sponsor
iTrader: (2)
Ac turns off anyway normally at ~90% throttle. As far as those coils go...sounds the same as the granatelli ones.. Im not sold on them.
I prefer to use a power distribution block for instances like that. Stinger has a nice 1 in 3 out for big heavy wire online. Better than a rats nest or 900 wires on batt term etc.
The biggest issue is driving the alt too fast and causing field coil issues. The replacement units arent made with the most heavy duty parts, but if you are overdriving it, youll have a better time.
A customer in fla had that issue where voltage would drop out on a tt fbody. truck alt, upgraded pigtail and overdrive alt pulley fixed it. He could have also underdriven the crank and had the same effect. He did bump the rpm slightly at idle.
I prefer to use a power distribution block for instances like that. Stinger has a nice 1 in 3 out for big heavy wire online. Better than a rats nest or 900 wires on batt term etc.
The biggest issue is driving the alt too fast and causing field coil issues. The replacement units arent made with the most heavy duty parts, but if you are overdriving it, youll have a better time.
A customer in fla had that issue where voltage would drop out on a tt fbody. truck alt, upgraded pigtail and overdrive alt pulley fixed it. He could have also underdriven the crank and had the same effect. He did bump the rpm slightly at idle.