2002 Formula LS1 exhaust modification question.
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: May 2017
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2002 Formula LS1 exhaust modification question. Hello all. I recently bought a nice 2002 Formula with a blown up LS1. I bought a 5.3 iron block that I'm having bored to stock LS1 size and will be putting it together within a week or so. All parts from the LS1 will be swapped to the iron block.
This will be my daily driver about 80 miles a day so I don't want to get away from reliability and fuel mileage, but I would like it to be fairly peppy.
I am an experienced SBC engine builder as my other car is a 850 horsepower SBC Chevy II drag car.
I am thinking of replacing my manifolds using the cheap Chinese 1 3/4 stainless headers and Y pipe.
What has to be done as far as the O2 sensors when using this equipment?
I want to retain the stock rear pipes and mufflers for now.
I will be also using a to be determined small cam.
Trying to use the stock computer without a special tune.
Any advice or insight that you can lend me will be appreciated.
This will be my daily driver about 80 miles a day so I don't want to get away from reliability and fuel mileage, but I would like it to be fairly peppy.
I am an experienced SBC engine builder as my other car is a 850 horsepower SBC Chevy II drag car.
I am thinking of replacing my manifolds using the cheap Chinese 1 3/4 stainless headers and Y pipe.
What has to be done as far as the O2 sensors when using this equipment?
I want to retain the stock rear pipes and mufflers for now.
I will be also using a to be determined small cam.
Trying to use the stock computer without a special tune.
Any advice or insight that you can lend me will be appreciated.
TECH Senior Member
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 5,798
Likes: 16
From: St.Charles MO
The stock 02 sensors normally don't reach with lt headers, so you can either buy extensions or buy a set of C5 Corvette 02 sensors. The rears you will either have to get 02 simulators or get a tune to turn them off, otherwise you will get a check engine light.
You can retain the stock catback/muffler.
Almost any cam change and you should get a tune to not only get the car to run right (and not be throwing codes too) but also get the most power out of it as well.
You will not need to change anything computer related around, but you should get a professional dyno tune, the car will run much better afterwards.
You can retain the stock catback/muffler.
Almost any cam change and you should get a tune to not only get the car to run right (and not be throwing codes too) but also get the most power out of it as well.
You will not need to change anything computer related around, but you should get a professional dyno tune, the car will run much better afterwards.
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: May 2017
Posts: 10
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That's the kind of information that I was looking for. Thank you. What about the cheap Chinese headers on E-Bay? Are they more trouble than they are worth, and should I spend more and get TSP or something else?
I bought a set of those eBay stainless headers and I am very happy with them. ORY too. Been on my car for 5 years and still look like new but car isn't driven in winter or rain.
I am pretty certain that the SE and TSP stainless headers are the exact same manufacturer as the cheap chinese headers on ebay. They might have some specific changes made but the quality and performance should be exactly the same otherwise. I have owned TSP, Kooks, and SE and they all fit ok but I would like to try a get set of American Racing headers and matching y to see if I can get better ground clearance especially out the the y pipe.
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In reply to your "small" cam question. Back around 2001, I was thinking the same thing you are. Get a small cam upgrade that won't need a computer dyno tune. I was wrong. So I bought a Comp cam 216/220 degree @ .050. This is a very mild cam but it still needed a tune to get rid of some cam surge at low rpm. A tune didn't do too much, I gained another 15 hp. With FLP 1-3/4 headers, high-flow cats, stock SLP exhaust, and a LS6 intake, the car makes 370 at the wheels. This cam is hardly worth the trouble and expense. I like a mild cam for cruising, but if I decide to change it, I would go for something with a little more duration. Like maybe a 220/224. Tuning of these engines has come a long way in the past 15-20 years.
John
John
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Any cam including the stick cam will benefit from a competent tune. Depending on where your located there maybe an excellent tuner near by if not mail order tunes can work well. My heads & cam TA still has the mail order tune from 2002. The car has 4.10 gears, old TEA 5.3 heads and a 224/224 XE-R cam. The car is my daily driver. Creeping in parking decks is near stock. Creeping at 5mph almost stock. I road trip the car on 1300 mile trips.
If you really don't want to do a tune, something like a Lingenfelter GT2-3 will probably do OK. 207/220 duration @ .050 lift -.571/.578 lift with 1.7 rocker 118.5 CL
The cam is best with 1 7/8 primary header per a discussion I had with LPE but the cam also works well with stock manifolds and Y pipe.
Best wishes with your project.
If you really don't want to do a tune, something like a Lingenfelter GT2-3 will probably do OK. 207/220 duration @ .050 lift -.571/.578 lift with 1.7 rocker 118.5 CL
The cam is best with 1 7/8 primary header per a discussion I had with LPE but the cam also works well with stock manifolds and Y pipe.
Best wishes with your project.
i just installed a set of speed engineering 1 7/8 headers, ory yipe, used GM exhaust manifold gaskets and they went in great no issues at all. i did new front O2's and rears i did sims from ZZP.
I'd reccomend getting stainless headers since this your car will be your daily driver and I doubt you really enjoy doing the same mod repeatedly even if you have tools and time.
I have pacesetter headers on my car which they came with.
but speed engineering or Texas speed ones gets my vote.
I have pacesetter headers on my car which they came with.
but speed engineering or Texas speed ones gets my vote.
Speed Engineering headers are much better than ebay headers. Ebay headers are not the actual size they are advertised, just the flange openings are. Go with SE 1 7/8 and you'll be more than happy.
