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Harmonic Balancer install. This normal?

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Old 11-18-2017, 11:30 AM
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Default Harmonic Balancer install. This normal?

Installed my harmonic balancer on my freshly built 370 today. Used a tool from Proform. I installed it as far as my strength would let me and I feel like it bottomed out against the crank. However, there looks to be a gap between the balancer and timing cover. Looks like it isn't installed all the way.
Maybe I am just paranoid but is this gap normal?
Old 11-18-2017, 09:26 PM
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there is a spec somewhere that states how big that gap should be. but, no, it isn't supposed to be flush against the seal.
Old 11-18-2017, 10:57 PM
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Get the accessories mounted, then you will know by whether the pulleys align properly or not once a belt is in place.
Old 11-19-2017, 07:16 AM
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Originally Posted by dreadpirateroberts
there is a spec somewhere that states how big that gap should be. but, no, it isn't supposed to be flush against the seal.
This. It is installed correctly per your picture.
Old 11-19-2017, 07:57 AM
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Thanks fellas. I assume since it felt like it bottomed out that it was supposed to be like that.
Old 11-19-2017, 08:39 AM
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first pass use old bolt torque to 240 ft lbs
second pass use new bolt 37 ft lbs
final pass 140 ft lbs
Old 11-19-2017, 07:17 PM
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Originally Posted by qweedqwag
first pass use old bolt torque to 240 ft lbs
second pass use new bolt 37 ft lbs
final pass 140 ft lbs
Using ARP bolt. Set it and forget it. Thanks.
Old 11-21-2017, 11:23 AM
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The spec is for how much the end of the crank is inset from the balancer flange, without the bolt installed: .094 - .176. Easy to check if you take the bolt out. And you'd definitely have problems if there was no gap between the balancer and the timing cover.
Old 11-22-2017, 07:50 PM
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Originally Posted by patSS/00
The spec is for how much the end of the crank is inset from the balancer flange, without the bolt installed: .094 - .176. Easy to check if you take the bolt out. And you'd definitely have problems if there was no gap between the balancer and the timing cover.
This, I just did a balancer install on my ls3 and had the same question

https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...r-install.html
Old 11-25-2017, 06:09 AM
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I use some oil resistant sealer on the underside of the bolt head. Helps stop oil wicking thru the balancer bore.
Old 12-01-2017, 07:24 PM
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Originally Posted by Old Geezer
I use some oil resistant sealer on the underside of the bolt head. Helps stop oil wicking thru the balancer bore.
Good idea.
Old 12-03-2017, 11:19 PM
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the crank bolt hole is a blind bolt hole.....jus sayin.....
Old 12-04-2017, 12:14 PM
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I've seen some where the plug is missing (or has fallen past the crank and into the engine).
Old 12-06-2017, 08:04 AM
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Originally Posted by sjsingle1
the crank bolt hole is a blind bolt hole.....jus sayin.....
GM puts sealer on the bolt HEAD. Why? because oil can wick through the pressed area and the slot for a woodruff on aftermarket balancers. No sealer needed on the threads cause thats not where the oil would come from.
Old 12-08-2017, 01:11 AM
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^^ is it sealer or locktite ?
Old 12-08-2017, 07:43 AM
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They put locktite on the threads (dried) and sealer under the bolt head.
Old 12-08-2017, 10:57 AM
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There is no locktite on the threads from GM.
Old 12-08-2017, 12:05 PM
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I'm about to install the ARP harmonic balancer bolt (it has a huge flat washer)...

where do I put sealer, locktite, ARP Ultra Lube...?
Old 12-08-2017, 12:52 PM
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Originally Posted by patSS/00
There is no locktite on the threads from GM.
You indeed seem to be correct sir.
Old 12-08-2017, 01:14 PM
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Originally Posted by joecar
I'm about to install the ARP harmonic balancer bolt (it has a huge flat washer)...

where do I put sealer, locktite, ARP Ultra Lube...?
I have wondered that myself. I don’t think the sealer and ARP Ultra Lube will play well together. IIRC that is what the instructions call for.


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