Hit a couple speed bumps and you get ovalized pipes for free

 

But don't worry, it'll flow as good as ever. Just ask Full-Force....

 

The one thing I forgot to mention is that I'm running a UMI k-member and prothane mounts. It doesn't matter how I orient the pipe that connects to the driver side header. It dips down to clear the brace in the floor which causes the pipe coming off it to not have optimal clearance. Changing the cross sectional area to oval is the way to go. At 27" ride height I have 3" of clearance with an unmodified SE Y.

 

To save yourself time and money (unlike what I did) you should really plan out exactly what you are wanting out of your exhaust setup.

The thought of using QTP low profile cutouts in my setup completely slipped my mind. Check this out:



Here's what I want:

- No restriction in power when the situation calls for it.
- Quiet as possible when cruising around town. 60 db or less at idle
- I don't smell like a gas station when I get out of the car even with optimized tune
- As much clearance as possible
- Able to use a short tunnel mount torque arm brace that has the best clearance possible
- Would like to keep my speed engineering headers.

Not sure if your goals are similar, but here's a potential solution to the above:

Custom made Y pipe with DHM low profile cutouts made such that it has a Y merge in a location just before the tunnel mount cross member so that only the I pipe has to pass through the tunnel mount.

Why 2 cutouts instead of 1? Because I'm going to be using the area where the cutout is typically installed (in the I-pipe area beneath the passenger seat) to put two of the Kooks GE-307540. That's really the only place to put 2 cats on the car and have the best clearance possible. Also don't feel like having to deal with a big 3.5 or 4" merge off the Y which will lead to clearance issues passing through the torque arm cross member.

From the I pipe we go over the axle into a Magnaflow 14267. In between the CME tips and the 14267 we put in a Magnaflow 14416 on each side. The only problem with this setup.... the price. The full setup headers back is $2200 with a CME tip and valence setup, $1800 without, and that doesn't include the labor/time to weld and bend it all together. Tight clearances call for innovative solutions. Damn near 20 year old technology and I gotta fork 20 bills just to get the setup the way I want it.

 

i already have my system planned out and bought. everything from the tip to where the ypipe starts. im just trying to figure out which ypipe is the best to go with is all.

 

I would find a Y-pipe that has the closest thing to a Flowmaster merge that there is. Lacking that, find a nicely-bent and -priced one, and weld a Flowmaster merge into it.

 

What torque arm and cross member do you have? Stock?

What torque arm cross members can be used with a flow master merge? I'm assuming all of them from UMI, MWC, BMR, Spohn as along as the merge isn't welded such that it is right on the cross member?

 

the rear is founders. front is UMI/MWC. BMR lowering springs with bilstein shocks in all 4 corners.

now as far as the torque arm im going with the long style but i have yet to get one since some people have said the founders arm doesn't work with aftermarket relocation crossmember which im going to be running so those 2 things i have yet to buy since i didn't want to get something that didn't work together BUT it will be long style torque arm.

 

i haven't looked at the flowmaster merge's since they first came out years ago. i always wanted them to come out with a stainless steel one with dual 3inch in and 3.5inch out. not sure if they ever did.

 

My FM merge is 3" and 3.5" out it's not stainless. Unless they recently starting making one I don't think they make one. It was right around $50 as well. It also made a nice bump in power for me over the crappy merge that was on my Pacesetter ORY

 

Long style will definitely be better clearance wise for the exhaust.

 

That's the problem I was fighting with my TSP Y pipe. The drivers side was too low. The passenger side was tucked nice and tight with great ground clearance.

I was at a car cruise and looked at a lowered Challenger with headers. He had about an inch of ground clearance. I really don't know how he drove the car on the street.

 

An inch of clearance....lol that's just asking for problems. Send full-force a PM, he has the TSP Y pipe and got both sides to tuck nicely. He had to use some 3" extensions off the speed engineering Y collectors to get it to tuck perfectly. How old is your TSP Y pipe? The more I look into this the more I realize how backwards I went about it. Prior to installing my aftermarket K-member and prothane mounts I should have taken clearance measurements of everything. I had pacesetters and a stock K and had no clearance issues. I had a Spohn cross member and the pacesetter Y cleared that no problem. I switched too many things at once. I should have just gotten the MWC catback cross member to begin with and had a custom built Y pipe to work with it and have the shop make it so that it has the best possible clearance with the speed engineering headers. There's just too many variables involved when multiple parts are switched out and the makers of these Y pipes can't account for every suspension change possible.