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I have been doing that the entire time from my phone. but it wont let me do that now for one reason or another.
Gotcha. All this time I thought the only way to post a pic was through an image host and posting a link. I don't even know what image host to use anymore. I'm behind the times and my photobucket is a nightmare to try to access. I was gone for a while so I think I missed the switch of being able to load pics from the pc, or it was always an option and I was/am retarded??
That works also, but it wont work for me. Im assuming an actual limit on the total pics based off size/mb.
Maybe its a glitch in the system, but hard to say.
(It wont let me post pics at this time...looking for work around that isnt photobucket lol. stay tuned)
Short side of runne to head flange is 11 inches. Outside is 18 1/2 inches. csa changes so much its hard to get any accurate reading.
Pic is of #2 runner right after tb opening. it basically pools right into it after sculpting. You can knife edge it more, but idk how well that would work vs how it already is.
Note:
The runner section is made to be somewhat universal ie it doesnt have a front or back BUT it does have 2 "slip stream slopes" on the inside of runner for cyl 2 that directs air to runner for 1 (pictured) so its not universal and should be noted during reassembly. The bellmouth to runners 1 and 2 are tapered front to back also for better airflow to them and dont have as pronounced of a lip on them.
That's good info, I know it going to very difficult to measure #2 . But can you measure any the others #3 - 8 they appear to be somewhat uniform in shape. If you could measure mouth opening and at 1" and 2" in . Also what measurements do you have now at the bottom after your port clean up ?
Working on transitioning the inj area is going to be fun.
Here is a pic of the port after ledge removed and transitioned.
As you can see...that transition allows for some nice ported heads with no actual need to rework the lower shell on the floor of port. There is quite a bit of thickness left on the sides. Not so much up top but a little there also.
Good job on cleaning up the exit on the runner. I will try to post pics of the runner entrance.
Thats actually not the entrance. Thats a support for the center section but goes around the outside only as a support. the runner starts at the very top and goes around but that part doesnt go into the runner at all. it follows the like where the 3 shells come together.
Ill post a picture later to show where that goes. Maybe even do a short video of assembling the pieces.
Any other questions ask them asap, next week its shipping out!
You are referring to the short turn the airflow makes into #2. It does have the interferrence of the exterior contour of the top shell/runner, yes, but it is a direct straight shot right from the tb in to it...after you smooth the ledge and transition it. Before it leaves a huge occlusion.
There is more material on the inner runner section that could be whittled away, but i really dont see the need for it YET. Maybe after the flow test is done we will see something. First come first served is what helps it.
Bottom of the runner tapers down to .97 inches avg. As you can see, that can change drastically mainly on the front of the port, but it can taper out quickly to match the head port size.
The width of the lip at the bellmouth of the runner section is .580 in. Thickness of the turn on the runner portion is .100 in to .080 at thinnest. So not alot there to work with. Basic runner height looks like 2.430 at the bellmouth. width is roughly 2.050. Thats the best i can give ya.
I have a high speed dremel with cable attachment and about 15 carbide burrs and 10 different sanding wheels/pads. I also have 5 different types of sand paper for fine hand finishing if necessary. I can be SUPER precise with the dremel vs any air grinder or drill. I also use about 3 or 5 different lighting sources and ive grown an extra arm out of the back of my neck to work all the stuff at once and hold an extra flashlight. Call me Trogdoor. Thats a Strong Bad reference for anyone not in the know.
You are referring to the short turn the airflow makes into #2. It does have the interferrence of the exterior contour of the top shell/runner, yes, but it is a direct straight shot right from the tb in to it...after you smooth the ledge and transition it. Before it leaves a huge occlusion.
There is more material on the inner runner section that could be whittled away, but i really dont see the need for it YET. Maybe after the flow test is done we will see something. First come first served is what helps it. Side shot runner #2
Bottom of the runner tapers down to .97 inches avg. As you can see, that can change drastically mainly on the front of the port, but it can taper out quickly to match the head port size.
The width of the lip at the bellmouth of the runner section is .580 in. Thickness of the turn on the runner portion is .100 in to .080 at thinnest. So not alot there to work with. Basic runner height looks like 2.430 at the bellmouth. width is roughly 2.050. Thats the best i can give ya. Outlet to head
I am going to drill a test hole to see if it is hollow. i can always fill it later. will let you know outcome tomorrow.
Thx for posting that top pic , gives a better understanding that it is not as bad as I thought. Your work on contouring the lip should really help the turn to that runner entrance. Could you post a pictures of before and after upstream of the TB snout opening bare , no throttle body installed .
( " Bottom of the runner tapers down to .97 inches avg. As you can see, that can change drastically mainly on the front of the port, but it can taper out quickly to match the head port size.
The width of the lip at the bellmouth of the runner section is .580 in. Thickness of the turn on the runner portion is .100 in to .080 at thinnest. So not alot there to work with. Basic runner height looks like 2.430 at the bellmouth. width is roughly 2.050. Thats the best i can give ya." ).......
Thx for taking those measurements . I'm going to try post a graphic , lmk know if you find these accurate at all.
Post 34 has 5 ig pics. You can swipe thru them. its in there
Gotcha , didn't realize you had 5 pics there , it the 5th pic . Looks like you were able to trim that back quite a bit ..... Good job ! Which bank are you porting for the flow test the # 2, 4 ,6 ,8 or the odd bank ?
I have a high speed dremel with cable attachment and about 15 carbide burrs and 10 different sanding wheels/pads. I also have 5 different types of sand paper for fine hand finishing if necessary. I can be SUPER precise with the dremel vs any air grinder or drill. I also use about 3 or 5 different lighting sources and ive grown an extra arm out of the back of my neck to work all the stuff at once and hold an extra flashlight. Call me Trogdoor. Thats a Strong Bad reference for anyone not in the know.
Awesome thanks. I've been considering a cable driven long shank dremel style tool. Looks like i'll consider it stronger now.
Thats actually not the entrance. Thats a support for the center section but goes around the outside only as a support. the runner starts at the very top and goes around but that part doesnt go into the runner at all. it follows the like where the 3 shells come together.
Ill post a picture later to show where that goes. Maybe even do a short video of assembling the pieces.
Any other questions ask them asap, next week its shipping out!
Just wondering if you're getting a closer to reassembling , do you anticipate any problems getting it seal internally or developing any leaks when it's torqued down. Some that had a issue with getting it to seal .
The original DLST intakes had 8 screws in the bottom that went through the lower shell and into the center runner section. This one (and newer ones) do not. We are adding them as a rigidity upgrade and sealing them off.
I have fit the shells together so many times for mock up and transition checking im sure itll have 0 issues with going back together as positive as they feel. It uses a FAST style orange rope seal in factory form but that lacks alot to be desired so it will be ditched for epoxy around the exterior to permanently seal it up.
I should be sealing it this weekend.
12-07-2017, 11:48 AM
