Adding speed engineering headers
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Adding speed engineering headers As the title says I’m adding 1 7/8” headers to my 02 WS6. I have the car jacked up on wood blocks and it’s 18” off the ground. Do I need to get it higher or should that work to squeeze them in? I plan on doing the motor mounts while I have the room to get them done. I’m going to need the air block off plates correct? Where to get these if I do? What gaskets are good so I only have to do this once? Are the speed engineering gaskets with the bolts a good way to go? This is my first time doing something like this. If you guys can point me in the right direction it would be very appreciated!
Higher! I had to put 2 2x4 chunks on top of my jack, put it under my k-member and take it as high as it would pump before I could get my passenger side in. Drivers side header had to be pretty much straight up and down before it would go in. If you got the race versions you shouldn’t need block-offs. You can remove all the emissions crap if you have it. Since you have an 02 you won’t have to mess with it. I’m a little contentious about poly mounts right now. I ran into problems with mine and having fitment issues after install. Until I get to try some stock mounts to see if it solves my problem I’m not gonna recommend polys! I would get GM MLS steel gaskets. For bolts I used ARP 12-point stainless bolts. I also used angled plug wires from Hinson. Pull your oil filter too and get O2 extensions. Take the coil packs off and make sure you get a 10mm ratcheting wrench!
Last edited by 99Silver6.0; Jul 28, 2018 at 07:09 AM.
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Race headers don't have any emission ports to block off, pull it all out. Get longer 02s and DO NOT USE cheap paper gaskets. Get yourself some nice MLS gaskets. I used the Percy header gasket and it sealed up nice and tight and I have zero issues.
I had to get the car up around 20"s. I'd do poly mounts while you are there, why wouldn't you? You will need an angle grinder.
I had to get the car up around 20"s. I'd do poly mounts while you are there, why wouldn't you? You will need an angle grinder.
i had an issue sealing my headers on my ls1 heads......i wanted to be absolutely sure i had perfect seal when i installed ported ls6 heads.....new gm metal gaskets+new arp bolts=no leaks. i like the thought of new bolts here because after being heated and cooled so many times and the small bit of rust build up i wanted to make sure i got accurate torque on the torque wrench.
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99silver 6.0, don't I have to block off the air tubes going to the headers? Yes I'm getting the race headers.
I will get the multi layered gaskets and probably ARP bolts.
Don't know yet if I want to go for poly or solid on the mounts yet. this is just a toy so its not a daily?
How are the se Y pipes compared to the tsp y's? I have the 3" cat back tsp system.
I will get the multi layered gaskets and probably ARP bolts.
Don't know yet if I want to go for poly or solid on the mounts yet. this is just a toy so its not a daily?
How are the se Y pipes compared to the tsp y's? I have the 3" cat back tsp system.
The speed engineering y pipe was decent. I'd spring and get speed engineering true dual kit though. It's awesome.
Stick with poly mounts, i think you'll be happier with them comfort and vibration wise.
also with the race headers, just rip the whole air system out of your car, it's a few pounds in weight. I hammered a grommet from Lowe's in the air lid where the air system pulls from.
Stick with poly mounts, i think you'll be happier with them comfort and vibration wise.
also with the race headers, just rip the whole air system out of your car, it's a few pounds in weight. I hammered a grommet from Lowe's in the air lid where the air system pulls from.
99silver 6.0, don't I have to block off the air tubes going to the headers? Yes I'm getting the race headers.
I will get the multi layered gaskets and probably ARP bolts.
Don't know yet if I want to go for poly or solid on the mounts yet. this is just a toy so its not a daily?
How are the se Y pipes compared to the tsp y's? I have the 3" cat back tsp system.
I will get the multi layered gaskets and probably ARP bolts.
Don't know yet if I want to go for poly or solid on the mounts yet. this is just a toy so its not a daily?
How are the se Y pipes compared to the tsp y's? I have the 3" cat back tsp system.
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99silver 6.0, don't I have to block off the air tubes going to the headers? Yes I'm getting the race headers.
I will get the multi layered gaskets and probably ARP bolts.
Don't know yet if I want to go for poly or solid on the mounts yet. this is just a toy so its not a daily?
How are the se Y pipes compared to the tsp y's? I have the 3" cat back tsp system.
I will get the multi layered gaskets and probably ARP bolts.
Don't know yet if I want to go for poly or solid on the mounts yet. this is just a toy so its not a daily?
How are the se Y pipes compared to the tsp y's? I have the 3" cat back tsp system.
no experience with anything but stock rubber mounts, but i know for damn sure im never getting solid engine mounts......when that time comes i will most likely do poly but new rubber isn't totally out of the picture
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This +1!! I dam near had to put my car on the garage ceiling to get the headers inverted enough to go in. Just keep jacking it up. When you think its high enough keep on going!
Texas Speed headers, but from what I've heard they're practically identical.
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Teching In
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I just got got the Ml gaskets and bolts for the headers along with the poly motor mounts today. Still waiting for the headers and the y pipe to get here. I still need O2 extensions don’t I?
Thanks for for the help so far!
So on this air pump, is that hard to get out? I haven’t had time to work on it yet due I’m planting a new lawn in the backyard.
This is nearly a decade ago from my memory but if you follow the air hoses it should lead to under the fuse box. I believe I pulled the air pump out from the bottom through the splash guards.
for headers, your not getting them in there without taking the steering knuckle off.
The motor mounts I found it best to remove the mounts and the pedestal to make it easier.
I'm not going to lie your in for one hell of a pain in the *** job. Not a mentally difficult job but a physical pain in the ***
for headers, your not getting them in there without taking the steering knuckle off.
The motor mounts I found it best to remove the mounts and the pedestal to make it easier.
I'm not going to lie your in for one hell of a pain in the *** job. Not a mentally difficult job but a physical pain in the ***
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On on the motor mounts I’ve read that it was easier the take the pedestal with them. I won’t have to take the ac or the alternator off then right? I want to remove as few parts as possible.
Really should do mounts too and get it over with, the headers and exhaust will align better too so you should have less rubbing and banging.
And man, I haven't done this in near 10 years either but like said above it really is a massive pain in the ***. But I was in a hurry too so it's always harder when you're trying to hurry and get done vs being able to walk away and come back to it when you feel like it.
Once it's done you'll be really glad you did the mounts.
I would do poly engine mounts and a OEM rubber trans mount though. My car was actually smoother with that setup than before I swapped the mounts. My cousins SS with poly eng and poly trans mount vibrated like crazy and made a ton of noise in the cabin.
When I did my motor mounts I dropped the alternator and compressor, it's not that hard to do either and it's nice having them out of the way, just let the compressor hang to the side.
And man, I haven't done this in near 10 years either but like said above it really is a massive pain in the ***. But I was in a hurry too so it's always harder when you're trying to hurry and get done vs being able to walk away and come back to it when you feel like it.
Once it's done you'll be really glad you did the mounts.
I would do poly engine mounts and a OEM rubber trans mount though. My car was actually smoother with that setup than before I swapped the mounts. My cousins SS with poly eng and poly trans mount vibrated like crazy and made a ton of noise in the cabin.
When I did my motor mounts I dropped the alternator and compressor, it's not that hard to do either and it's nice having them out of the way, just let the compressor hang to the side.
I've been in different cars with poly mounts and they transfer a lot of vibration. Engine mounts are technically called isolators, because they isolate engine vibration from the chassis. If vibration wasn't a concern cars would have solid mounts.
That being said, a honda with poly engine and trans mounts vibrates horribly, but a F body with poly mounts and rubber trans mount, feels like stock. On my car, it had 137k miles and 7 years on the rubber mounts. The poly mounts felt the same, or better than the somewhat aged mounts that came out. The trans cross member is right under the seats though and when you put a poly mount there you feel and hear everything, console vibrates like a mother..
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Makes sense! The stiffer poly engine mounts don't allow the tranny mount to move much anyway, so no big deal if it's rubber, plus it soaks up vibration better as said. A poly tranny mount with rubber engine mounts sounds like a recipe for a ripped tranny isolator. Thank you for laying it out, Pooter!
Makes sense! The stiffer poly engine mounts don't allow the tranny mount to move much anyway, so no big deal if it's rubber, plus it soaks up vibration better as said. A poly tranny mount with rubber engine mounts sounds like a recipe for a ripped tranny isolator. Thank you for laying it out, Pooter!
This all reminds me, about 15 years ago a buddy of mine put an LS6 in a rx7 and it ripped the trans cross member bolts and brackets off the chassis a few times. I kept having to re weld it back together, each time it would rip off something different in that area than the time before. The 3rd time I believe it was, we got it to stay.