changing plugs and wires on my 2000 z28...
10-29-2004 | 01:49 PM
#1
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changing plugs and wires on my 2000 z28... are all 8 plugs capable of getting to without alot of work??? and how hard is it too change out the wires??? wat would i need too remove too get best access??could use sum help, thanks
10-29-2004 | 01:56 PM
#2
Originally Posted by andrewsj2222
are all 8 plugs capable of getting to without alot of work??? and how hard is it too change out the wires??? wat would i need too remove too get best access??could use sum help, thanks
You'll find all the posts you need to help you out..
Pretty simple..
Driver's side are extremely easy.
Passenger side you will need to remove coilpacks. Its easier to reach the rear passenger plug if you have the car jacked up.
10-29-2004 | 01:57 PM
#3
All 8 plugs can be done much faster if you can get under the car, to get to #8. You can hit all of the left side from the top, and the first 3 on the right side from on top. Number 8 is easily hit from underneath.
BTW, it's much easier to change them if you have headers.
BTW, it's much easier to change them if you have headers.
10-29-2004 | 02:19 PM
#4
It all depends on how stock your car is. It is very easy to do plugs now that I have headers without air or egr to clutter up the motor. #6 and #8 are done easier from underneath, at least in my oppinion.
Post up in the area you live for more help, someone could probably help you through it for a beer or two.
Post up in the area you live for more help, someone could probably help you through it for a beer or two.
10-29-2004 | 03:52 PM
#7
Originally Posted by andrewsj2222
any word on the wires??what would i need too do??
Umm...
You pull them off and put them back on the new plugs
Are you installing new wires or reusing the old ones?
Pretty straight forward..
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10-29-2004 | 04:01 PM
#8
If your car is still stock (or mostly stock), it's pretty easy, just time consuming.
Excellent write-up: http://www.installuniversity.com/ins...g_and_wire.htm
Tips from my experience:
Driver's side: Remove the two 10mm bolts holding the AIR tube in place and rotate it out of the way. This give you relatively free access to #1, 3, 5, and 7.
Passenger's side: Remove the two 10mm bolts holding the AIR tube in place and rotate out of the way (or remove entirely, but this will require you to undo a plastic hose clamp). Remove the coil pack rails. There are 5 (I think) 10mm bolts holding it in place. There is one WAAAAAAAY in the back (next to the firewall) that can be removed fairly easily with a 10mm swivel head Gear Wrench. Now you can lie on top of the motor and reach #6 and #8 much easier. You'll still need a 3/8" swivel, but now you have room to work.
-Mike
Excellent write-up: http://www.installuniversity.com/ins...g_and_wire.htm
Tips from my experience:
Driver's side: Remove the two 10mm bolts holding the AIR tube in place and rotate it out of the way. This give you relatively free access to #1, 3, 5, and 7.
Passenger's side: Remove the two 10mm bolts holding the AIR tube in place and rotate out of the way (or remove entirely, but this will require you to undo a plastic hose clamp). Remove the coil pack rails. There are 5 (I think) 10mm bolts holding it in place. There is one WAAAAAAAY in the back (next to the firewall) that can be removed fairly easily with a 10mm swivel head Gear Wrench. Now you can lie on top of the motor and reach #6 and #8 much easier. You'll still need a 3/8" swivel, but now you have room to work.
-Mike
