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FINALLY got Pacesetter LT's installed...

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Old Jan 27, 2005 | 12:21 AM
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From: Central AL
Default FINALLY got Pacesetter LT's installed...

Well, I started at noon on Saturday, and finished at about 8pm tonight. That's gotta be the longest header install ever. Here's the breakdown.

Saturday: Got the factory exhaust pulled. Took the plugs all out, and swung the coil packs out of the way on the pass. side. Got the headers in place. Only hitch was that the block tab had to be sawzalled off. Was 20* out with wind-chill. Quit for the day. A few hours later, discovered that my oil dipstick tube, along with the dipstick was missing. Remembered that I laid it on the trunk of my beater before I left to go back to the shop to get the sawzall...

Sunday: Bolted the headers up. Installed spark-plugs finger tight. Installed O2 sensors. Then decided that it was too damn cold, and called it quits for the day.

Monday: Ordered parts. Realized that my 1/2 inch torque wrench wouldn't fit. So I just tightened the plugs and removed the AIR system.

Tuesday: Sat my lazy *** on the couch and watched TV, spent "quality time" with the fiancee.

Wednesday: Got 3/8 torque wrench and dipstick parts. Torqued Headers, Reinstalled coil pack bracket and plug wires. Installed O2 extensions, and changed the filter that had gotten busted in the accident. Fired 'er up and danced an Irish jig.

Damn, my car is loud on open headers. The neighbors called and told me that their windows were rattleing. I drove it to see what it was like, and got a headache it's so loud. Now I just need to order the Rumbler X system, so that I can finally drive my car around.

Total install was about 6-7 hours, not counting the me screwing around time. I'm just a lazy ***. Really though, it was a breeze, and would definitely recommend Pacesetters to anyone, and also recommend that you install them yourself. Just get a friend to help you, unlike me.
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Old Jan 27, 2005 | 02:06 AM
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i did them by myself too (for the most part), but i think my install was a *bit longer than yours. my oil dipstick tube broke off in the block, which stopped my project for quite a few days.

getting my stock y-pipe off by myself after almost 100k miles was a challenge to say the least. i had to put a ratchet strap around the y-pipe, connect the other side to the k-member, ratchet it tight, and hang on the y-pipe while wiggiling it. it FINALLY popped out and smashed my finger somthing awfull.

i never started mine up with open headers, but that first crank up with the tsp duals, i was jumping like a school girl when putting it together, make sure the slip joints are nice, clean, smooth, and wigggle inside each other as easily as possible. also make sure you flip the fuel lines and the 2 brackets inside the driveshaft tunnel to get them away from the exhaust, then throw away the tunnel brace . might also want to bash in the support under the driver seat area, its about a foot or so past the end of the header, you will see it. i diddnt do mine, and it doesnt rattle, but i DID put in poly motor mounts at the same time, so i'm not sure about yours.
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Old Jan 27, 2005 | 02:14 AM
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I've read about your misfortune around the forums. Sorry to hear about all the miscellaneous crap that has befallen you. It happens to the best of us.

Actually, your post about the oil dipstick made me remember to take mine out. I probably would have just yanked on the pass. side manifold 'til the tube broke, and be in the same boat as you.

My y-pipe was a bitch to get out because it was all mangled from backing over a manhole cover. A few good smacks with a four lb sledge got it out though.

About installing the duals, got any pics of the lines you're talking about flipping? I think I know which ones you're talking about, but I like to see how things are done before I start something. Oh, and I already tossed my tunnel brace. I could bend that weak *** thing with my bare hands.
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Old Jan 27, 2005 | 02:24 AM
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those fuel lines run between the tunnel and your torque arm, you will see them. you have to remove the little black retaining clips holding them in, and MUSCLE them up above their current position. they can be a pain to get moved, but this mod moves the fuel lines a good 3" further away from the exhaust.

found out today that my posi unit is shot when it went to the shop for a new 3.73 ring/pinion so now i'm even more screwed. no way i'm spending 1000 bux on a damn 10 bolt rear end (600 for install + 400ish for new posi). i guess i'm going to trailer it home again and cry untill i can figure out what to do. my funds are dwindiling (college sux).
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Old Jan 27, 2005 | 02:29 AM
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Yeesh. I hate to say it man, but it looks like your best bet would be to park that thing for a while. It can't break if you don't drive it.
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Old Jan 27, 2005 | 02:35 AM
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you try driving a 92 saturn lol i hate this thing.

yesterday, i pulled out of the parking lot at the school, and there was a white 03/04 cobra in front of me, and a NBM WS6 trans am behind me.... and there i was in the middle, in the saturn, cussin like a sailor
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Old Jan 27, 2005 | 02:52 AM
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Hell, my beater is a 93 Mazda 626 with peeling clearcoat and a tranny that slips so bad it's like it has a 'verter. I can sympathize. Been driving that every day since the 8th.
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Old Jan 27, 2005 | 08:53 AM
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Originally Posted by TheBlurLS1
you try driving a 92 saturn lol i hate this thing.

yesterday, i pulled out of the parking lot at the school, and there was a white 03/04 cobra in front of me, and a NBM WS6 trans am behind me.... and there i was in the middle, in the saturn, cussin like a sailor
I know that pain, I hated it when my chevelle broke down, and I had to drive some beater.Because then, I would see every friggin musclecar in the area Good luck with fixing the car.

And how did you jack the car up? How high did you get the car for the install?
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Old Jan 27, 2005 | 09:00 AM
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I jacked the car up with a 3 1/2 ton Craftsman jack with a piece of 1x4 on top, under the K-member. I supported the car with two 3 ton stands on two 4 inch concrete blocks per side. To get it to the final height, I used a 4x4 piece of wood with a 2x4 screwed to the top.

I measured 14 inches from the bottom of the passenger side wheel to the ground, and removed the passenger side heat shield temporarily. They both slid right in at this height.

You can easily do this yourself, just have a friend handy, you'll want one for sure.
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Old Jan 27, 2005 | 09:44 AM
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Dman sux about the stuck y-pipe and then smashing your finger. I smashed mine real bad with a hammer doin my catback......yeah dont ask haha. Anyways yes it SUCKS!!! It took about 6 monthes to heal too. SO when i have to pull my y-pipe, I think im just going to tie my tow strap to my jeep and pull it off. Or maybe go to the culdisac on the next street over and tie my y-pipe to a gaurd rail and drive off. Sweet.....I can't wait
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Old Jan 27, 2005 | 10:53 AM
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Originally Posted by jet_black
Only hitch was that the block tab had to be sawzalled off. ....
I've installed every header made - countless times - and have never had to do this...

Congrats on the install!
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