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a 160 Thermostats neccessary?

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Old Jan 29, 2005 | 11:27 AM
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Default a 160 Thermostats neccessary?

Does getting a hypertech 160 Thermostats really beneficial for me with my mods below(including the cam)? What exactly does it do? Please note my car is 98% a street racing car.
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Old Jan 29, 2005 | 11:30 AM
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cooler water temps = cooler head temps = less detonation = more spark advance = more power.....
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Old Jan 29, 2005 | 03:47 PM
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From: Schiller Park, ILL Member: #317
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Personally I never saw any benifit out of it on my LS1 cars. They've always seemed to run their best/fastest with coolant temps in the 195-210 range, either using a hypertech 180 or stock stat with improved/reprogrammed fan settings...
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Old Jan 29, 2005 | 04:04 PM
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I always went 180 on my cars. If your in a cold climate I wouldnt do it.
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Old Jan 29, 2005 | 04:17 PM
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Agreed. A 160 degree thermostat in sub 30 degree weather...bring a coat.
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Old Jan 29, 2005 | 04:18 PM
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out here in AZ my coldest winter crank temps are 50 degrees


but relize something guys.......the reason you have a T-stat is to SHUT and keep the engine at or above a given temp. IF its -20 degrees out your engine will worm up to ~ 160-165 and then hold there. It can't go any colder than the CLOSE temp of your T-stat. Max HP is hit where you have water temps of about 165 and oil temps of about 210.
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Old Jan 29, 2005 | 04:39 PM
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From: Schiller Park, ILL Member: #317
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Originally Posted by 2001CamaroGuy
Max HP is hit where you have water temps of about 165 and oil temps of about 210.
It's not just about the water/coolant temps. It's about the temps inside the cylinder head. You might have great coolant temps, but that might also mean that the coolant is circulating too fast and only cooling itself rather than properly removing heat from the motor. This is what happens when you run no stat at all. Probably not an issue with the 160 unit though.

Either way, I've seen best results on my NA LS1s out of the stock or aftermarket 180s with reprogrammed fans to keep the temps cycling between 195-210 via a-tap... For any sort of forced induction I'd want cooler temps though....
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Old Jan 29, 2005 | 04:43 PM
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Originally Posted by RPM WS6
It's not just about the water/coolant temps. It's about the temps inside the cylinder head. You might have great coolant temps, but that might also mean that the coolant is circulating too fast and only cooling itself rather than properly removing heat from the motor.

VERY TRUE.......which is I like as many sensors as possible (wish I could find a place to mount a cyl head temp gauge.....


this is a good reason for using something like the Evan waterless coolant......it costs a lot (especially to the near free garden hose ) but provides a very even cooling.....
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