matts22

iTrader: (2)

Ok, not sure which forum to put this in, but here it goes. I am trying to decide whether I want to buy a new Ford 9 inch 31 spline soft locker 4.11 geared rear end with new driveshaft (almost $3000 installed)....or use this money to get the rest of the bolt ons. I could get QTP/Kooks headers, True Duals, Ported TB, HP Tuners, LM-1 Wideband, SFC, and ASP/March Pulley for the price of the rearend. The thing is, I want the power now but from all the horror stories about breaking the rearend, I'm afraid to race it as it is (hardly any mods).

So when did you guys upgrade your rearend? I would like to be able to drag race my car once or twice a summer without worry, but I'm not going to take it on the stock rearend. Should I spend the money on all the bolt-ons, or should I get the rearend and add power as I have more money? I really don't know what is the best way to go. If I was pushing 375 rwhp, would a 2500ish dump on street tires (Goodyear GSD3's) have a chance of breaking the rearend? Or do you have to launch pretty high to break on street tires? Would it be better to spend a little of the bolton money for a torque arm and LCA's (to reduce wheelhop, which can kill rearends)?

Give me your opinion on which direction I should go. I have money right now to spend (~$3-4000) but I don't have to spend it all right now, and I don't know what to spend it on. Thanks!

cyphur

iTrader: (10)

I haven't upgraded my rear end yet, but I baby my car everywhere for the most part. Otherwise I'm afraid of breakin my rear.... Saving up for a 9" right now, but I'll be goin with 35spline detrot locker and either 3.89 or 4.11 gears, with a Strange center section. If you have a 3channel car like me, prepare to lose your ABS w/a 9".

Z28Venom

iTrader: (13)

Start by building a solid foundation. You wouldn't start building the roof of your house first..

2MuchRiceMakesMeSick

If you decide to go the rear end way. I have one that has very few miles and alot stronger for alot less. Check the sig

2_wacko

iTrader: (2)

Good point.

Ru2n00n3er

iTrader: (13)

I'm pretty much making the same decision. Was planning Jet Hots, ORy, LS6, PTB, su-frames. Then I started to realize that when I go the track I won't be able to use any of the power off the line. I'll still get faster on the top end but that wouldn't be nearly as helpful as off the line. Been talking to some people at school I know, and one of them broke a stock rear with stock tires a while back. So my thought is if I'm adding more power than that I'm screwed. My car is a complete daily driver during the good months so I don't want to risk the downtime if I break it during the summer. I think I'm going to pick up a Strange 12-bolt now, while my car is still parked so I don't have to deal with the pain of having it sit there during the summer. Another thing is that I don't race at all on the street, only at the track which is why the rear is important to me. If you were to race more on the street and not at the track I'd say get the power stuff. My budget has went up with this plan, but I'm also buying peice of mind, which is worth a damn lot in my opinion.

Mark98SS

iTrader: (1)

If you are talking about this year's car mod budget only, go with the the boltons. That will give more bang for the buck, long term do all the chassis stuff first & then add HP as needed.
I did the rear,LCAs, PHR & TA first. The car was marginally quicker. Then with a new cam & headers/exhaust about 1.5 sec better ET and have the setup to add alot more power to it w/o worry.

matts22

iTrader: (2)

I've got a 4 channel car, so I won't lose ABS or TCS.

I realize that it is probably better to start with the rearend. But I would enjoy the power so much more

What I want to know is whether I will break the rear dumping the clutch low (like 2500 rpm) on street tires with all the bolt ons. Are the people who have broken their 10 bolts either had drag radials or launched a lot higher? Or has someone broke it with a lower launch on street tires?

Basically, I want the 9 inch, but I could get EVERYTHING else instead. If I can get away with the stock rear for awhile, I'll do that. If not, I'll get the rear probably.


I like the idea of saving money, but I'm pretty sure I want 4.10 or 4.11 gears, and I don't want a spool because I drive the car a lot. I've never ridden in a spool car though. But I hear the soft locker makes it a lot quieter and it is just as strong. So I think I want to go that route. Plus, with the Billingsley sale, I can get the rear exactly how I want it brand new for like $2400 ($2700 assembled and installed). The extra $300 is for the driveshaft. I would have to pay to have yours put in, so it would end up being like $2400. Do you have any gear whine with that setup? Anyway, I just don't think its worth it in my case when I could spend a little more and have a brand new rear exactly how I want it. If you come down in price let me know.

Ru2n00n3er

iTrader: (13)

The guy I know broke it on a stock tire with stock tires, and he wasn't even launching it. All he did was spin the tires in order to clear rocks and the like off them since they were street tires, and the rear blew just from doing that. And I think you could see a fair amount of time gain by switching to a rear, if you switch gears and tires then. I plan on getting 4.10s in mine, and would probably pick up sme ET streets. I don't know how much time that could get me, anyone? but it'll be something.

Sanders

Seriously, if your on street tires you should be fine with the stock 10 bolt, as you will just spin. I was running 401 hp and 395 tq and never had a problem with a few trips to the track on Nittos, granted the track was never hooking too hard. If your running Nittos and your track hooks real hard, there is a chance you will break your stocker though.

If I were you, I would do full bolt ons this spring/summer and limit your track passes to a few and don't get greedy on the launch. Mainly just enjoy your new found power on the street. Then, next winter through in a 9 inch while its down for the winter!

matts22

iTrader: (2)

That would be great except that my car doesn't go down for the winter--I'm in college and I drive it all the time. So basically, what I do this summer is going to be what I do until next summer. Man this is a tough decision. And I really can't do both, because if I get headers/duals, I'm going to get HPTuners so I can tune it and delete emissions/cats. And I'm going to get SFC (and maybe TB) no matter what.

So its either SFC, TB, 9 inch, and driveshaft -- $3400ish
or
SFC, TB, Headers, Duals, HPTuners, Wideband -- $2700ish

Keep the comments coming guys. Thanks so far.

Ru2n00n3er

iTrader: (13)

You're in college like me, but ask yourself this. Getting a new rear reuires some down time. Well I'm not sure about that for 9", do you have to have stuff built in with it? Do ou have other transportation if you grenade the rear during the year? Would you rather have down-tme when you planned for it(if you to have stuff built in) or when you grenade it and then have to pay $XX for a tow and sit your car there a month until you get the new rear?

matts22

iTrader: (2)

That is a very good point. But my girlfriend will be at college next year, so I would have transportation if anything were to happen. What do you mean "have stuff built in"?

Ru2n00n3er

iTrader: (13)

For teh Strange 12-bolt I'm looking at right now, this is the way I understand it. If you have a 4-channel system you have to send them your brake backing plates and axles(the axles are only so they can pull the reluctor rings off). Then they send those to Strange and they get built into the new 12-bolt rear that then gets shipped back to you. That's my understanding at least, that wasy it's more of a bolt-in setup since there is less for you to do. I don't know how 9" work though.

matts22

iTrader: (2)

Yeah the 9 inch is a little different. You have to buy new reluctor rings, so its just the backing plates that you take off the stock rear and put on the new rear. Not a big deal. I would probably just drive up to Billingsley and have them install it.

cyphur

iTrader: (10)

2Much's setup is freakin awesome. I've ridden in it, and you wouldn't notice its a spool unless you take a 90 degree turn @ 1mph(most parkin lot turns aren't even as slow as I'm talkin about). His is set up for four channel. Doesn't have many miles on it at all, and no track passes. Just thought you'd like to know some facts. I was going to buy the rear end but I'm a 3 channel, and it'd be a pita for me.

matts22

iTrader: (2)

I would really like to buy a used rear for less money. But when it isn't the right differential (would like soft locker), gears (would like 4.11), and it is $2200 plus shipping when I could get a 9 inch made by Billingsley my way for $2700 assembled and INSTALLED, it isn't justified in my case.

If I had a power-adder (needed to shift into 5th with 4.11s), and didn't drive the car that much (spool), I would jump on this in a second. But for my case, the price would have to be lower to justify it IMO.

Ru2n00n3er

iTrader: (13)

So with the 9" there wouldn't be any downtime? You would buy new reluctor rings and when you get the new rear would just pull the backing plates off the old rear and swap to the new? So there wouldn't be any downtime? Are you planning on buying that rear from Billingsley or just have them install it? I thouht they made their own 9" rears but didn't carry Fords?

Are the Moser 9" just a Ford one with a new name? I've been told that if you have a 33 spline axle and break it, then Moser upgrades you to a 35 spline and better diff, is that true? What are the benefits of a 9" over a 12-bolt? 9" are heavier, which will eat more power, but they're also stronger. I've been told that gears are easier to change on a 9", is that true?

freakynipples69

iTrader: (3)

maybe sound like a really stupid question, but how do you tell if you have a 3 or 4 channel ABS? Saving up for a 12bolt and want to retain my ABS.

Ru2n00n3er

iTrader: (13)

You have a 4-channel if you have traction control in addition to ABS. 3-channels only have ABS.