TSP duals and banging and modifications
#1
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been fabbing up my TSP duals the past two days and the way its positioned now it pretty much against the ******* tq arm. any body have issues with there's banging. also, i had to cut about 2.5" off the end of the X pipes to fit the bullets on, it was to long other wise and they werent mountabe to the floor board. the front portion tucks up pretty good but the bullets hand low. car is still on jack stands so i dont know the exact clearance.
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Use the f*in search button NEWB!! ![Happy](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_stretch.gif)
J/K, I'm with these guys, I had mine on upside down too the first, flipped it over and that fixed it. I thought I flipped it to to try both ways, but it turns out, after I pulled everything off and flipped the x, I somehow ended up flipping it again and ended in the same boat as the first time. I drove like that for a day, the **** was scrapin' everything. I decided to get under there again and realized I never really flipped the x.
So basically, double and triple check the x.
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J/K, I'm with these guys, I had mine on upside down too the first, flipped it over and that fixed it. I thought I flipped it to to try both ways, but it turns out, after I pulled everything off and flipped the x, I somehow ended up flipping it again and ended in the same boat as the first time. I drove like that for a day, the **** was scrapin' everything. I decided to get under there again and realized I never really flipped the x.
So basically, double and triple check the x.
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Had the same problem. thought about cutting it to started a thread but nothing????? ended up makeing ruber spaces between flroor pan and hanger brakets. am going to cut latter i think. but i am like 1/2 inch away from tq arm and not shur what will happen if i jack the car up so the rear suspention is unwieghted. any help?????????
#7
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Originally Posted by kpowr82
Use the f*in search button NEWB!! ![Happy](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_stretch.gif)
J/K, I'm with these guys, I had mine on upside down too the first, flipped it over and that fixed it. I thought I flipped it to to try both ways, but it turns out, after I pulled everything off and flipped the x, I somehow ended up flipping it again and ended in the same boat as the first time. I drove like that for a day, the **** was scrapin' everything. I decided to get under there again and realized I never really flipped the x.
So basically, double and triple check the x.
![Happy](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_stretch.gif)
J/K, I'm with these guys, I had mine on upside down too the first, flipped it over and that fixed it. I thought I flipped it to to try both ways, but it turns out, after I pulled everything off and flipped the x, I somehow ended up flipping it again and ended in the same boat as the first time. I drove like that for a day, the **** was scrapin' everything. I decided to get under there again and realized I never really flipped the x.
So basically, double and triple check the x.
![Icon Lol](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies2/icon_lol.gif)
i'll double check but im almost 100% the X is in the right position..
i havent even fired it up yet and i know its gonna be loud as ****
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I had the same problem and adjusted it every way possible and ended up buying an edelbrock(sp) torque arm from summit racing equipment- problem solved! they are coming out with an adjustable TA in March. The summit TA provided plenty of clearance. I also banged in the passenger foot well areas on each side of the drive shaft. That made the bullets tuck up nicely before the axle. Watch for band clamp leaks at the collectors. I ended up tightening down u clamps at the collectors with an air ratchet. Removed them and then put on the band clamps. No leaks after that.You can only tighten the band clamps once and then if you remove them and reinstall, they will not tighten as much. I pushed up the duals at the x pipe with a jack to get them to fit a snug as possible and then tightened up everything. I also ground down a corner of the driver side tranny cross brace that was contacting the driver side dual pipe.
duals sound bad ***, but I think I am now deaf because of the bullet drone.
duals sound bad ***, but I think I am now deaf because of the bullet drone.
#9
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As you can see in the pic below my x pipe was hitting the tq arm as well. This is with the car on the lift & rear suspension hanging. I ended up pushing the bullets up very hard with a tranny jack up to the point that the tq arm started to bend. I then let off a little and bolted the mounts behind the rear seat. Now when I let the car down the tq arm goes up & no issues. I suppose if I was to really fly over a bump the tq arm would hit, but so far I have not noticed any issues/sounds.
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#10
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thanks Code4. i was planning to do pretty much the same thing. i've got full poly mounts (motor, tranny, tq arm) so my setup should be pretty stiff. im gonna try and get it all squared away on the weekend.
shep - i also thought about getting a new tq for a bit more clearance.
shep - i also thought about getting a new tq for a bit more clearance.
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The only problem I had with mine was the exhaust banging right after the bends on the driver side header. It was also the part on my exhaust that would scrape going over large speedbumps.
How are you guys securing your duals in the back?
I used self tapping sheet metal screws once and they fell out because the exhaust moves so much. Used a little longer screws on the next time (quick refix) and so far it's holding. I really don't want to weld the bullets permenantly on. I was thinking about having an exhaust shop weld a metal hanger type piece to the middle X-Pipe and have it attached to the bolts the cross tunnel brace used.
The last time the exhaust fell I pulled the entire thing off the car and tried to pull it apart. Only to find out the U-clamps I had used on 2 sides had been tightened way too tight and crimped the exhaust together!
(Any Ideas on how to pull it apart w/o cutting it?
How are you guys securing your duals in the back?
I used self tapping sheet metal screws once and they fell out because the exhaust moves so much. Used a little longer screws on the next time (quick refix) and so far it's holding. I really don't want to weld the bullets permenantly on. I was thinking about having an exhaust shop weld a metal hanger type piece to the middle X-Pipe and have it attached to the bolts the cross tunnel brace used.
The last time the exhaust fell I pulled the entire thing off the car and tried to pull it apart. Only to find out the U-clamps I had used on 2 sides had been tightened way too tight and crimped the exhaust together!
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#13
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I drilled a hole, and used bolts/nuts. We installed a set on a friends car, and used the self tapping screws, only to have the damn things fall out of the sheetmetal a couple of days later. Plus, with bolts/nuts, you can take the bullets off w/o any problems with wearing out your holes that you would be with self tapping screws
I also have the Edelbrock T/A, and it is adjustable. I was having the same problem with clearance. It is expected with a 3" X-pipe setup, but i think with a aftermarket TA it will be ok. The best method i've seen to get the bullets tucked in there is to have the rear loaded, and use a jack to push the bullets up, then put on your hangers, that way they are nice and flush against the body.
I also have the Edelbrock T/A, and it is adjustable. I was having the same problem with clearance. It is expected with a 3" X-pipe setup, but i think with a aftermarket TA it will be ok. The best method i've seen to get the bullets tucked in there is to have the rear loaded, and use a jack to push the bullets up, then put on your hangers, that way they are nice and flush against the body.
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I had my rear loaded and have ok ground clearence....but when sitting flat the tq arm is only 1/2 to 1/4 inch away from bullet!!!!! so whats going to happen when i lift the car from like say rite infront of the rear tire? cause the suspintion well then move down.....
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wow and i thought getting duals would be a way to stop my tq arm from touching the exhaust. guess even duals have this problem. i think im just gonna have an exhaust shop do my true duals when i have money. im pretty sure here in SE michigan we have more than enough exhaust shops that can do a good job
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Originally Posted by spike1n1
The last time the exhaust fell I pulled the entire thing off the car and tried to pull it apart.
You mean to tell me that you had screws holding the rear section to the frame?
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What's up jrp? Did you figure it out?
I just put my duals back on today. I had to pick the lesser of two evils, poor ground cleareance vs. damn y-pipe baniging everywhere causing missfires.
-sigh- I guess I'll have to get a quote from an exhaust shop on some 2.5" dumped or under axle. The 3" just aint cuttin it. Plus the junkbox that welded everything up must have moved my **** around cause I have worse cleareance AFTER the welding then before.
You should also consider some sweet thunders to replace the bullets. Sound better and give more cleareance.
I just put my duals back on today. I had to pick the lesser of two evils, poor ground cleareance vs. damn y-pipe baniging everywhere causing missfires.
-sigh- I guess I'll have to get a quote from an exhaust shop on some 2.5" dumped or under axle. The 3" just aint cuttin it. Plus the junkbox that welded everything up must have moved my **** around cause I have worse cleareance AFTER the welding then before.
You should also consider some sweet thunders to replace the bullets. Sound better and give more cleareance.