It's very easy. You just need an air source like a leaf blower or air compressor nozzle. Aim the nozzle up into the duct work and then feel all around the air box, lid, MAF etc. Anywhere you feel air is a leak you need to correct.

Once you have all your leaks fixed, go out an drive the car again. I am positive you will notice a significant improvement in performance, throttle response and fuel economy.

 

The other question I asked though was did you try to get an improvement over an airbox that already had the bottom of the airbox cutout. If you did what gains were seen in your testing in that situation?

 

All of the improvements we quote are over and above the free air mod. As mentioned before, a good seal on your airbox is critical or the kit cannot develop any positive pressure. It also helps ensure that engine bay heated air is not ingested by the motor (which the free air mod still receives).

 

I've have mine installed for about a year now.
And I have never had any heat issues whatsoever.
Heck, If someone has installed this kit on their ride in Kuwait with no issues, then you know you may have problems with your cooling system.

Oh...I'm also down here in Texas.

 

I have had my FTRA for almost 5 years now without any heating issues. Performance wise it is very important to make sure everything is seald off. I check mine regularly. Sometimes it needs to have the old "foam stuff" replaced. One other thing that I haven't seen anyone else do is to put a piece of 3/8" fuel line inside the rubber piece for the front of the air box. That made mine seal of very good.

 

FTPP
I have the FTRA and I like it. But I have never seen a lid that isnt going to leak somewhere around the seal. I did the leafblower test and I could feel a little air around where the lid sealed but not around the FRTA seal on the front. Are you telling me that you have done this with a leaf blower and had absolutley no air coming out from anywhere?

 

never had any problems from mine. i had an overheating issue last fall, but i knew it had to be the t-stat. sure enough, changed it out with a new one, and hasnt given me any trouble sinse. you have a problem with your cooling system i would think. like said before, try running your A/C when its running hot, it should help keep the temps down until you can pull over or get home. just be careful, you can really mess up an aluminum block by over heating it.

 

I've had my FTRA on for almost 5 years...four of which were in FL. I think you have other issues, as I have never seen a temp increase...

 

i've also had the ftra for a number of years and it's seems to be working well ... but dang can you guys do something bout it's weight? ... maybe a light weight version? i don't really think this thing needs to be indestructable

 

I have had mine for 3 years, and no complaints here. I'm trapping ~119 with a small cam and heads, and suspect that the FTRA is helping there.

Last summer I did turn on my AC and the temps went high instantly, don't know what that's about. (Tune?) But without the AC on, I hover just above 170* with a 160* stat here in hot South Florida.

Also what's this foam stuff??!! I don't recall using any foam. I blocked off the front of the airbox with AC Commercial duct tape (the real shiny one) and I think I'm sealed.

MY K&N gets dirty very quickly. Much more so than when I just had Free Ram Air.

 

A lower temp thermostat won't improve the efficiency of the cooling system. Set your fan temps to reccommended settings (low on at about 200) and get the slp manual fan switch so you can run it for a minute after you stop on a hot day.

 

Don't you mean your heater, since it would circulate the water more often and keep the temp cooler? If you run your AC the temps will skyrocket.






224/.581 isn't that small of a cam. I trapped 118 in the heat with my cam+bolt-on car no ported heads without the ftra.

 

True, but you are probably a much better driver. Some people in my F Body Club think I should be going 121-122, but I have only been to the strip 4 times in 6 years, 3 of them at teflon coated Moroso. I used to **** around the streets a lot though. I looked at your set up, and we are pretty close dyno-wise. I got MAC midlengths with a stock TB and no suspension except SFC's. My 413/383 dyno was with a stock 10 bolt too, so I may not be 413 anymore.

As a matter of opinion, I still do think the 224/581 is small by today's standards. My fellow club members are running high 230's to 240's with over .600 lift.

Anywho, back to the topic, I think the FTRA is both CAI and a ram air. Tell ya what, I will clean and oil my K&N Friday, and take pics. After 75 miles, I'll retake the pics to show how much air (by dirt marks) this thing is pulling through. With !FRA, I rarely had to clean the filter. This thing HAS to work. Perhaps .5 to 1.0 mph.

 

how do you know you didn't have a temp increase? you don't b/c you have a dummie temp guage like me. Mine needdle stayed on 210 like normal the whole time. And the car did not over heat, and it was running perfect. Jus the coolant was bubbling. When it gets warm im going to flush the system and put a 160 stat in.

p.s. my car only has 19k miles, alll hoses look brand new. So it jus might be the stat. But i'll check it out

 

Yes. You have to do your BEST to seal up ALL the holes. Sometimes the quickest solution is black electrical tape!

 

Just some quick clarification:

My comment about turning on the A/C was just to trigger the 2nd fan (that happens autotmatically when the a/c comes on). If your temp drops, fan programming will lower your operating temps with the FTRA. As you know, if the cooling system is being pushed, turning on the A/C should really raise your temps.

If your car is actually overheating (for whatever reason), turn your HEATER on HIGH as it acts as a little radiator and may give you enough extra cooling to get you to a shop to check things out.

The temp guage on later model years is not as sensitive because GM customers were freaking out whenever the guage went to 220 which is perfectly normal but caused a lot of service complaints. Like I said before, the 2nd fan isn't even programmed to come on until 220ish.

Get a fan switch or fan programming if you want a little extra cooling. A 160 stat on it's own without fan programming will do nothing.