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TSP True Dual Question

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Old 03-23-2005 | 11:48 PM
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Default TSP True Dual Question

Hey guys, just got my TSP TD system in today and was wondering if the hanger with the rubber piece on the mufflers bolts into factory holes or do I need to drill? Any one have any pics of that part on their system? Just want to figure everything out now before I put it on. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks

Deividas
Old 03-24-2005 | 12:16 AM
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If I remember you will have to drill new holes, make sure you get them tucked up as tight as you can to get the ground clearance, that exhaust sounds bad ***!
Old 03-24-2005 | 12:31 AM
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yeah you're gonna have to drill. I suggest fabbing everything up and then putting a jack under the x-member, then jacking it up a little bit and then bolting it in place. hopefully you figure it all out...i love my fuggin true duals and wouldn't think about going back to a catback setup (unless i drove 20,000 miles a year)

Nate
Old 03-24-2005 | 06:10 PM
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I'll post some pics of the duals after I mount them to make sure I did them correctly.

Thanks
Old 03-24-2005 | 06:14 PM
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That is kind of what i did, i used a jack and a 2x4 that was about 2 feet long, and put that on the mufflers, and got those things as far up as i could. You will need to drill holes or use some large sell tapping screws.
Old 03-24-2005 | 06:22 PM
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Yes drill holes and use a jack. Also, you may have to some cutting or bend the hangers as my hangers came up about an inch too far back.
Old 03-24-2005 | 07:08 PM
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I modified the system a little bit.

I cut the hangers that came with the system and bought some different hangers with a perforated strip of metal and a hook at the end. You can buy them at Pepboys just look in the exhaust section. A friend of mine gave me some 3" U-bolt clamps.

I mocked up the system buy keeping the rear suspension loaded so I could tuck the TD's up even more as the Xpipe will hit the torque arm with it unloaded and limit the amount that they can be tucked up. I put a jack on the X pipe to support it and made sure to tighten all the clamps to stiffen up the exhaust setup. It was tucked up enough so that I could fit a few fingers between the glasspack and the body. The hangers had several holes cut into it for adjustability, which was what I wanted. I marked the chassis where I wanted to drill and cut through. I ended up using iirc 3/8" bolts as these were the biggest bolts that I could use with the hangers. I installed the bolt with 2 nuts. One nut was used to tighten the bolt against the chassis and the second nut was used to tighten the hanger to the bolt. I also used some rubber washers to help absorb some of the vibration.

The only problem with this is when the car needs to be jacked up it needs to be jacked up from the differential so that the exhaust doesn't carry the load of the drivetrain. The U-bolt and hanger would allow me to unbolt the system completely and quickly.

I also turned the turndowns out and it actually got quieter.

...and I drive 100mi. a day
Attached Thumbnails TSP True Dual Question-p0001114sm.jpg   TSP True Dual Question-p0001107sm.jpg  

Last edited by sscam68; 03-24-2005 at 09:03 PM.
Old 03-24-2005 | 08:53 PM
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k, here are the pics

I am going to flip the U-bolts around the so the bolts face upward. It was getting late and I just wanted to get everything bolted up.

I could probably tweak the system more to improve on it but the only problem was the fuel lines. I will need to move them. I'll save that project for another day......
Attached Thumbnails TSP True Dual Question-p0001099sm.jpg   TSP True Dual Question-p0001104sm.jpg   TSP True Dual Question-p0001108sm.jpg   TSP True Dual Question-p0001110sm.jpg   TSP True Dual Question-p0001117sm.jpg  


Last edited by sscam68; 03-24-2005 at 09:06 PM.
Old 03-25-2005 | 11:36 AM
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Two things to NEVER do when hanging duals, of any kind, on an F-body.

1. Use 'self tapping' screws. That will last about 1-2 days before they rip out. You may get lucky and have them last for awhile, but the metal is too thin. Use bolts with large enough washers so they don't rip out as well.

2. Weld or bolt anything up to the seat belt plates or 'nuts'. The plate will eventually come loose and you don't want that. I've never done this, but have seen and repaired cars/systems that had.

<--- built and installed close to 300 true dual systems on F-bodys over the last three years. Just giving some hard earned advice.

Good luck.
Old 03-26-2005 | 02:49 AM
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Thanks for all the advice and pics. I should be done with the install by next weekend so I'll post some pics.
Old 03-27-2005 | 07:03 PM
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Made some adjustments to the band clamps and U-bolt clamps. Clearance has definitly improved. The other day I ended up scraping the bolts on a steep incline so I decided to get on it ASAP.

To test it out I went over some speedbumps that I scraped on last time and no problems getting over. And I even had my wife with me in the car (more weight).
Attached Thumbnails TSP True Dual Question-p0001119sm.jpg   TSP True Dual Question-p0001124sm.jpg   TSP True Dual Question-p0001120sm.jpg   TSP True Dual Question-p0001143sm.jpg   TSP True Dual Question-p0001122sm.jpg  

Old 03-27-2005 | 07:17 PM
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Quick Question? Are you guys just using the band clamps to seal the flanges or are y'all using a sealant of some sort. I am just worried about leaks.
I just finished my header install and now need to start my duals.
Thanks for any information
Old 03-27-2005 | 07:37 PM
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just the band clamps.

I don't have any sealant of any sort on mine. They have been removed and tightened up severl times already. No problems as of yet.



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