99whitews6

iTrader: (2)

Any ideas how to fix these problems?

black01_WS6

iTrader: (13)

My buddy had the same problem, he put in new motor mounts and it fixed the problem. If you got a lot of miles on it you may need to replace them.

LS1[CHEVY]

Thats not good . Anyone else having this problem . Kooks are on my wish list.

Josh

iTrader: (9)

Mufflex sells a hanger specifically designed to remedy this problem. I haven't used one, but it looks like it would be effective.

http://www.mufflex-performance.com/m...ct_Code=LS1-HR

Josh

cyphur

iTrader: (10)

Kooks are great headers, and many headers have this issue if your stock motor mounts are gettin old. I have Kooks and their ORY and I have a slight banging under heavy acceleration. I got poly motor mounts from Thunder that I plan to install here soon. Should fix the issue completely.

ponyeater01LS1

Get Some Old Radiator Hose And Screw It Into The Floor Board Where The Y Pipe Runs. I Had To Do It In 3 Places Under Mine And It Works Like A Charm And It Will Not Melt Either, Its The Cheapest Way To Go And It Works Better Than Anything Else You'll Buy.

DannoWS6

iTrader: (5)

Poly motor mounts and trans mount fixed mine as well. I recommend that route.

noah89

My Kooks were just installed yesterday with no banging problems at all.

Doore39

iTrader: (5)

I had the same problem with my headers, I tried everything, piece of hose, new hangers, new Y-pipe. Poly motort mounts fixed it, I should have done that first.

99whitews6

iTrader: (2)

Alright, I fixed the problem of the Y-pipe banging the floor boards. I forgot to hook up one of the bolts holding the y-pipe to the tranny mount!

Now the y-pipe leans against the two small metal brake lines running to the rear of the car. When the car idles you can hear the pipe hitting the lines.

Anyone run into this problem? Anyone have any ideas how to fix it?
(can i just bend the lines in that area?)

Also, my driver side O2 extension is drooping down because it is too long and there is nothign to attach it to (runs between oil pan and header). If i pull it tight it leans against the header.

What are you guys attaching this wire to?

noah89

I'll try to get it up on ramps tonight and take a look. Maybe I can get the camera under there too.

kpowr82

iTrader: (9)

I put the driver side o2 wire harness BEHIND that heat shield located directly above it. I didn't have anyting to zip tie it to either, so I just stuck between the heat shield. Almost a year later and no problem with it.

99whitews6

iTrader: (2)

Interesting, I will have to look and see if I can stick it behind the heat shield. Even with a zip tie I can't figure out where to attach it to!

Lane

iTrader: (1)

Mark where it's hitting - I'm assuming the frame rail on the drivers side(haven't read all posts). Bang it in with a good hammer - it won't hurt performance at all - to where it's 'flatter' in that spot to give you more clearance.

Then - 'flip' the fuel lines. Get a 10mm socket or wrench and take out the two screws that hold the lines(in 2 brackets) in the DS tunnel. Flip the brackets with the lines, so that the lines are above the mounting holes, instead of below. This will give you another 4-6"s of clearance - and should solve your problem.

Good luck.

99whitews6

iTrader: (2)

Thanks!!

SapphireHawk

I welded a valve spring to the floor board inbetween the y-pipe and floorboard. Haven't heard a peep from the y-pipe since.

SapphireHawk

I made a hook out of a piece of solid wire i had laying around ~16 guage i would guess. Wrapped it around one of the oil pan bolts and extended it out for a hook to grab the extension wire. It worked like a charm.

Lane

iTrader: (1)

Now THAT'S being creative!

We've done a rubber bushing that way on extremely lowered cars with duals - that we tucked WAY up - but never thought about a valve spring. You did use at least a 918 huh?

99whitews6

iTrader: (2)

Nice, good idea. Leaaving work to do it right now!!! 10 hours is too long for me