where to get longer crank bolt for install?
#1
where to get longer crank bolt for install?
about to do a cam swap.... i already have the ASP underdrive crank and ASP bolt......
I have heard that the longer bolt makes the install much easier.... where can i find one?
Tyler
I have heard that the longer bolt makes the install much easier.... where can i find one?
Tyler
#3
I bought mine from 2xLS1 and it comes with the longer bolt, nut and washers. I had tried using the crank bolt and stripped out the first few threads of the crank. I buoght this 2xLS1's kit and installed the pulley with ease. I think it was ~$20 and well worth not stripping the crank threads. Shoot him a PM and see what he can do for you
Trending Topics
#9
I don't recommend the longer bolt. While many will say it works fine, thare are also many who have damaged their crank threads using it. Use a piece of threaded rod, washers and a nut to press the pulley on. Then the threads on the rod take the strain, not the threads in the crank. This is one of the things I got tired of arguing with people when selling my tool. I used to get ripped for selling a tool for $25 shipped when you can buy the longer bolt for under $5. Look in the internal forum now. There is a thread about a broken bolt in a crank and if you search, there are many threads about stripped crank threads. Almost always while installing a pulley with a bolt.
#10
can you give me the dimensions of all these things... mabey even a part number?
Originally Posted by 2xLS1
I don't recommend the longer bolt. While many will say it works fine, thare are also many who have damaged their crank threads using it. Use a piece of threaded rod, washers and a nut to press the pulley on. Then the threads on the rod take the strain, not the threads in the crank. This is one of the things I got tired of arguing with people when selling my tool. I used to get ripped for selling a tool for $25 shipped when you can buy the longer bolt for under $5. Look in the internal forum now. There is a thread about a broken bolt in a crank and if you search, there are many threads about stripped crank threads. Almost always while installing a pulley with a bolt.
#12
seems the best way to do it is a piece of threaded rodk, some washers, and a nut to fit the threaded rod...this would pull the pulley on perfectly and not damage any parts...or even run the risk of possibly damaging parst unlike the other methods...
#14
Originally Posted by 240M3SRT
Wish i knew the pitch, then i could buy the proper all thread(threaded rod). Wonder if its a typical size home depot or ACE would have?
#16
i got a block of wood and a mallet over the pulley and hammerd it on, worked fine, and used a stock length bolt, im sure that wasnt the best way, but it worked. now my rear seal is leaking tho, maybe related?
#17
im in the same predicament, can't get my march pully on, not enough room to swing a rubber mallet and stock bolt is too short. went to napa with the part number given on this thread and they said they would have to order it and it is $9 plus i have to pay for the shipping???.. if there is another way i would sure like to know cause im at a loss....
#18
i just visited my mechanics garage and he actualy has "the pulley installer"
its a threaded rod with a nut and a bearing on it with a hole tapped in the end to thread all different pitch threads in to fit all different cars and on hte end it is flat so you can hold it with a wrench while you tighten the nut! looks like ill be borrowing it
the right tools will make this soo much easier
its a threaded rod with a nut and a bearing on it with a hole tapped in the end to thread all different pitch threads in to fit all different cars and on hte end it is flat so you can hold it with a wrench while you tighten the nut! looks like ill be borrowing it
the right tools will make this soo much easier
#19
Ask your mechanic if he's actually used that tool on a LS1. The crank threads are recessed pretty deep on a LS1 crank. Many of those universal tools won't reach the threads before the larger part of the tool hits the end of the crank. You would hate to be in the middle of your install only to find out the tool won't work.